Yari Click English Walnut
- Thread starter qquake
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qquake
Member
Mike P
Member
I've made a copule of the Yari twist pens and haven't been impressed by the fit of the kits either. The mating of the hardware into the tubes is loose and imprecise. I still like the kit for it's simplicity so I just keep some CA handy during assembly. Your pen looks really nice though. Good choice of wood for the plating.
Beautiful pen! I like the clip style...
I do have a question...honestly, truly curious about why the carnauba wax? Pens Plus includes the same wax as Renaissance Wax. This stuff is VASTLY superior as a top coat finish over Carnauba... I would think that Carnauba would completely dull the finish, compared the the clarity of the Cosmolloid 80H...
I do have a question...honestly, truly curious about why the carnauba wax? Pens Plus includes the same wax as Renaissance Wax. This stuff is VASTLY superior as a top coat finish over Carnauba... I would think that Carnauba would completely dull the finish, compared the the clarity of the Cosmolloid 80H...
qquake
Member
I wasn't aware Pens Plus had wax in it. I saw someone here mention carnuba wax one time as a final coat, to protect from skin contact. It doesn't appear to dull it much, if at all.
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Pens Plus is a friction polish that includes Cosmolloid 80H microcrystalline synthetic wax. This was gives the finish a much more durable and fingerprint-proof finish, unlike any other friction polish. Its the same wax as Rennaisance Wax. On its own, without carnauba, it will produce a brighter, clearer shine than any other wax I've ever used. I guess it is not just that it is "shiny"...Cosmolloid 80H in Pens Plus gives you a reflection that is more like a highly polished CA finish that gives you that crisp, clear reflection of the environment (vs. just specular highlights). Carnauba doesn't even come close to the kind of glass-like shine that Cosmolloid 80H can give you. Examples:
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keithlong
Member
Nice pen
qquake
Member
I wasn't aware of all that. So the carnuba is unnecessary.
It should be unnecessary. It might take a certain technique to fully bring out that crystal clarity of the Cosmolloid 80H in the Pens Plus. I have a number of posts on these forums were I've outlined my approach. I've refined it a few times...let me see if I can find my most recent, and link it here. One thing I have definitely learned about Pens Plus is its not a "build up layers" kind of finish. In fact, it seems to work best when you try to get that wax surface coat to fully coat the wood as much as possible in a single coat, let it dry, then if any dull spots appear, just carefully touch those up with one or more "dryish" additional coats of Pens Plus. You won't, and don't want to, really build up a thick coating of the stuff. You want to polish the top coat of wax so that it shines and reflects, and has no dull spots. I also usually use the Dr.s Woodshop pure walnut oil to wet-sand with my final grits of sandpaper (and, I also sand up to very high grits to get a very smooth wood surface...so up to 3000 standard grits, maybe also some zona grits). The walnut oil penetrates the wood, brings out the chatoyance, and gives you a proper surface to apply Pens Plus itself to. I try to let the pure walnut oil penetrate and dry a bit before applying the Pens Plus. Anyway...let me find a link to a more detailed application technique.
Hi Jim, here is a link to I think my most refined approach to applying pens plus:
I have other posts on the subject, but I think this is the most up to date. I have had a lot of crazy stuff going on lately, and have only turned a handful of pens since. All have used the approach in the link above though. Keeping the finish as a film, rather than trying to build it up, has really helped avoid the stickiness issues and the potential for radial streaking. If you get the heat right, then the wax should come to the surface and smooth out and then when it hardens, should be like glass. Crystal clear, super shiny and reflective...and man, when you look close, the details in teh underlying wood grain should just POP and be brilliant!
Applying Pens Plus
I'm new to pen turning and as such, finishing pens. Based upon some of my readings on the forum, I've tried Pens Plus friction polish recently. I apply and buff with the lathe running at 2800 - 3000 rpm, with a blue shop paper towel. I'm not able to achieve a smooth surface; there are very fine...
www.penturners.org
I have other posts on the subject, but I think this is the most up to date. I have had a lot of crazy stuff going on lately, and have only turned a handful of pens since. All have used the approach in the link above though. Keeping the finish as a film, rather than trying to build it up, has really helped avoid the stickiness issues and the potential for radial streaking. If you get the heat right, then the wax should come to the surface and smooth out and then when it hardens, should be like glass. Crystal clear, super shiny and reflective...and man, when you look close, the details in teh underlying wood grain should just POP and be brilliant!
qquake
Member
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out. FYI, the reason I apply it three times, is because it mentioned that in the Pens Plus video. I may have misunderstood, though.
I apply it a few times. The only difference is, I let the first heavy coat dry, which will usually reveal some "dull" or "dry" spots. Then, instead of more heavy coats, I get my applicator just barely wet with more pens plus, and then finish with lathe on over those spots. They usually shine right up. When doing this, I may add another 2-4 "coats", but, they are lighter coats. I keep the applicator dryish with pens plus, so there is more of the finish being added, just not thick, heavy coats. Works out well to allow the microcrystalline wax to flow over the entire surface and give you that crystal shine.