X-acto Knife holder question

[Sunami]

A friend of mine has challenged me to make him an X-acto knife holder, which I imagine would be made much like a nib holder. Two questions:

I measured the threads on the end of the X-acto knife that would be screwed into the holder and it is 4.70 MM diameter, so how would that translate into a tap for the holder? I have no idea, but I would love to explore HOW to do this...

If I wanted to buy a 'grabber' like a bottle stopper or a nib holder, is there a set of variable sizes I could buy to help turn it, or would I be better off using my barracuda chuck and wrap the end in tap to protect it>?

Thanks!

 

[KenV]

Susan, a pen (and other stuff) Turner named Kurt Hertzog's did an article on craft knife enhancements in Woodturning Design a few years back. Memory is that the article is posted in the articles section on his web page.

Kurt is the outgoing President of AAW and has written lots of good articles.

Some times the info from anothers journey helps ours.

 

[Sunami]

Ken V that is awesome - thanks I will look it up! Wow I just went to his website --WOWIE! What a great resource of articles!

 

[Sunami]

Now I know what I will be reading for the next month! Every SINGLE article!!!! But I found it! http://kurthertzog.com/articles/wtdsummer2008red.pdf

 

[BSea]

Here's one I made several years ago, and still use in the shop.


The model I used was the Excel #18 from Hobby Lobby. This one was made using PR, and the cap broke a few weeks after making the knife. This model tightens the blade by twisting a knurled piece at the opposite end. I bought a brass tube from a hobby store and used that as the holder for the collet that holds the blade. I was concerned the threads would be in the way, so I put them far away from the blade. Too far IMHO, and it made the cap too long.

If you're going to thread the blank for the cap, I'd suggest alumilite or some other resin that machines well. PR is not the best option. I also used my collet chuck for many of the steps. If you're going to get into custom pens and other similar items, I highly recommend a collet chuck with a complete set of collets.

I've made one other for a trade, but I didn't take pictures. It was made from alumilite & wood. I really wish I'd taken pictures because that person never came to another meeting, and I was going to ask him to bring it so I could shoot a few pictures. The threads on it were much closer to the blade.

These are a great beginning project for learning about custom pens. Have fun!

 

[Sunami]

BSea - 2 things...
1. Your picture isn't showing - :-(
2. what do you consider a 'complete' set of collet chucks? I have been looking at them for a bit now and they come with many options...what would be a minimum set requirement for a beginner?

 

[BSea]

BSea - 2 things...
1. Your picture isn't showing - :-(
2. what do you consider a 'complete' set of collet chucks? I have been looking at them for a bit now and they come with many options...what would be a minimum set requirement for a beginner?

Hmmm, it shows for me. I'll post a thumbnail, maybe that will work. And when looking for the picture on my computer, I found some that I didn't upload to photobucket. Hopefully they'll help a little.

And I consider a complete set the metric set (3mm thru 20mm) that can be found on ebay for around $60. I haven't looked in awhile, and I know the price fluctuates from time to time. And I'd suggest the ER32 collets. You can get a Beall collet chuck without collets from CSUSA. It's $10 less than the Apprentice set with 5 collets. Those 5 collets will basically be redundant when you get a complete set.

Hope this helps.

 

[Sunami]

The pictures came thru that way - VERY nice!! Yes, I have had my eye on a ER32 set on ebay, but there are many options and I am trying to minimize the impact on my wallet after realizing that the lathe was probably the CHEAPEST thing i have purchased so far!!! ;-)

 

[BSea]

The pictures came thru that way - VERY nice!! Yes, I have had my eye on a ER32 set on ebay, but there are many options and I am trying to minimize the impact on my wallet after realizing that the lathe was probably the CHEAPEST thing i have purchased so far!!! ;-)

LOL. If they had just told us that the little extras didn't cost little.

This looks like the best bang for your buck: ER32 19 Pcs Spring Collets Set 2 20mm ER32 Collet for CNC Engraving Machine US | eBay

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or ask in this thread.

 

[dogcatcher]

I made handles for wire inlay chisels using X-Acto knife handles. For the knife end I used the plastic cover that comes with X-Acto knives. Not as fancy as the screw on cap, but fast and easy.

I cut off part of an X-Acto knife handle and used it as a pin mandrel in my drill chuck that screws on to my spindle. I drilled the appropriate hole in my blanks and turned them to shape. Then epoxied the remainder of handles in the wood part.

 

[ChrisN]

What I did is just drill a hole into the blank and epoxy the entire knife handle inside. I figure why add a tube if you already have the xacto handle. If you go this route, drill a small relief hole at the very end of the blank to let trapped air out as you push the handle in the hole. Otherwise the epoxy will act as a gasket around the handle and pressurize the trapped air, both squirting the epoxy out and pushing the handle back out.

 

[Sunami]

dogcatcher - that is pretty much what the article Kurt Hertzog wrote did...so you are in good company!

 

[Sunami]

BSea... Thanks to you... I am officially ready to roll!!! BTW I see you are from Arkansas...I am an Arkansas ALUM...WOO PIG SOIEE!

 

[BSea]

BSea... Thanks to you... I am officially ready to roll!!! BTW I see you are from Arkansas...I am an Arkansas ALUM...WOO PIG SOIEE!

Well, I'm an ASU alum, but I have season tickets (20+ years) to Arkansas home games.

And glad I could help with your collets. I use mine with every pen I make.

Including this one:

 

[nava1uni]

I make and sell many exacto knives. I cut the handles so that the threaded mechanism is above the wood. I make the handles ergonomic since people who use them often use them for lengthy periods of time. I make many different types since so many people use different ones for different tasks.
Here is a picture of a few types. I cut the head so that it sits about 1" into the handle, but the threads are easily accessed to change blades.