Thanks, guys.
That first one was a test mule, just to see if it was feasible. After posting the picture on Facebook it wasn't long before I had an order come in.
I now have another guy ordering two pen and X-Acto sets - one set with Amboyna, the other with Amboyna burl caps cast in a blue acrylic with some flake.
Great job! Now I have another idea for my customers.
Awesome, as one of the newest guys on the forum, I'm glad (and humbled) that others like the idea so much.
I'm thoroughly impressed….great idea I think I'll put to use!!
It's pretty simple to make. I'm using
X-Acto's Gripster.
Just drill the blank with a 7mm bit like you're doing a slimline (pretty sure everyone here has a 7mm). This will allow the shaft of the X-Acto to pass through the blank without excessive play. Slide a couple of spare slimline brass tubes into the blank, but DO NOT GLUE THEM. You're only going to use the brass tubes to take up excess play while you trim the barrel ends square. I use a Whiteside barrel trimmer in a cordless drill. Drill just enough to see that you've cut a flat on the end of the blank. Trim both ends and remove the brass tube.
The shank of the the aluminum ferrule for the collet is
slightly larger than 7mm. I just take my time with a Dremel and open the ferrule end up a hair at a time until the ferrule is a light press fit into the blank. You don't want it to be a heavy press fit or you'll risk cracking the blank. When opening the ferrule end of the blank up with the Dremel it's best to get just the tip of the shank into the blank then cut deeper (down the length of the blank) to allow the shank of the ferrule to fully seat in the blank.
Once I know the opening in the ferrule end of the blank will allow the ferrule to fully seat I double-check the fit of the blank to the ferrule. There should be no gaps. Once you've confirmed that there are no gaps, glue the ferrule into the blank. I use medium CA with no accelerator. Press the ferrule in and, if you'd like, insert the aluminum shaft that tightens the collet (as well as the collet) into the X-Acto and draw it tight. This will serve as a clamp until the CA fully cures.
When the CA has cured it's time for the lathe. Since the ferrule is glued into the blank I place that end on the tailstock side of the lathe and use a tapered CA bushing to center the blank on the mandrel. For the other end I use a slim bushing and a CA bushing. I use the CA bushings because they'll center the blank no matter what the ID of the blank is. I really need to make some nice, durable bushings like that that withstand a more clamping force than the plastic CA bushings. :redface:
Turn down the blank to the diameter of the ferrule - about .360" (9.13mm for the rest of the world). Sand and finish. I like to use a CA finish.
For the larger handle - believe it or not - I just drilled a hole to the proper depth for the portion of the shank that would be pressed into the handle to the proper diameter to allow me to thread in a woodworm screw that you'd use turning bowls. Live center on the tailstock for support and I got to work.
When I had the blank turned to the proper diameter I used a parting tool and a skew to shape the rounded end of the handle then sanded, applied a CA finish, and used the Dremel to clean up the opening in the blank for the shank of the tool to press fit in the handle.
And I noticed in the pictures that there appear to be fine scratches going around the larger handle. There are no scratches. That seems to have been some smudged oil from "cleaning" the handles before pictures by wiping them with my t-shirt.
