Worthless wood problem

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UKpenmaker

UKpenmaker

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Joined
Oct 16, 2005
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Location
Isle of Mull, Argyll, United Kingdom.
I am trying to cast some worthless wood blanks made from Yew, but not having much success.:(
The resin is not setting in the places where it is in conatct with the wood.? All of the resin that was in the surplus areas is solid and will be used for inlays.
The blanks have been cut for at least 18 months and appear dry, could the problem be that there is some moisture on the wood and reacting with the resin.?? Or is ther something else that i am missing.[B)]

Thanks in advance
 
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I had the same problem with Manzanita root. Where ever the resin touched the bark it would never set. That is why my blank came out Manzanita, red swirl PR and Ebony/CA filler (after I used a dental pick to remove all the gummy resin/bark).

GK
 
I had some do that when I first started perfecting the process. The solution, for me at least, is to cook the blank in a toaster oven at 200 F. for 8 or so hours. Then cast the blank while it is still hot. Also, you really need to remove any bark for the best results. I just did some mesquite and was so excited about the cool cracks that I did not take the time to cook them. The mesquite was very dry and had been cut for a number of years but it still did not work right. The next batch I cooked and they were perfect.
 
Dario,

I usually put them in the toaster oven at night and let it cook all night. Then cast the next day. You could probably go less but I really want them oven dry before casting. As for acetone, etc, yes, I have tried all of that but the oven works the best.
 
Why not make a small dry kiln, one that uses a light biuld for heat and a small dehumidifier to pull out moisture. I have seen them made from old chest freezers and out of plain old plywood. They are supposed to work well, and with a 100 watt bulb in a smallish type enclosure would yield a pretty high temp. It might take a few days compared to the toaster oven. I could never put wood in my toaster oven and go to sleep. This would make me scared(very). toaster ovens are not meant to go for 8 hours. I know you like to live on the edge Curtis,LOL. I want to try a small homemade kiln just for drying wood in general. I have seen good info. on making kilns all over the net. Good luck all and if anyone ever makes a kiln share it with us. Thanks, Victor
 
Victor brings up a good point about the safety of a toaster oven. I have mine in a box made with HardiPanel siding (cement siding) and I place it directly on the concrete floor out in the middle of the shop with nothing flammable around. That said, I have accidentally left it on for a few days with no bad effects. I am actually only getting 175 or so inside and the wood does not show any signs of being toasted and the outside of the toaster oven that I use does not even get hot. I can hold my hand on it with no problem. That said, my reason for the concrete box is in case it malfunctions somehow.

As for the kiln, I am not sure how that would work for what I want to do. I want the wood to be pretty hot when I pour the resin. It seems to help draw the resin deeper into the wood then if I do a room temp piece. It also helps the resin set better. This is just based on my trial and error experience and other's experiences my vary.
 
Very smart man the cement board box. 175 would be hard to get up I would think with just a bulb. As soon as I find a smaller old frig I'm going to try a small kiln just to dry bowl and pen blanks. Thanks for sharing your trade secrets with us sir. Victor
 
Victor,
You don't need to search for a fridge, all you need is a normal cooler. I used to use them to transport hot food and it woeld keep food burning hot for at least 8 hours as long as you had it packed right. I think you could do what you want this way. It sounds like a reasonable way to dry wood and I think I'm going to try it. My wood dryer is just a plywood box that sits on top of a portable oil filled radiator. I dried out some fresh mesquite blanks in 2 days and have never had any problems with it. It also is a great way to help heat my shop.
Good luck, Johnnie
 
What you want is a Lab oven like the one I bought for powder-coating.

Here is one on e-bay for just $10, but it's ending soon!
http://cgi.ebay.com/EXCELLENT-BLUE-...yZ119118QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If this was close eonough I would be ALL OVER this one for my shop!! Dangit!! (Although I would need a phase converter to run the three phase power) :(
http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-M-POM7-336...yZ119118QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and another one for $20.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fisher-Bench-To...yZ119118QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

These are great for powder-coating and will run for days without working hard. Mine is 13 square inside and will hit 525F. It's insulated 2" thick and does not even get warm.
 
If you wanted to make a light bulb type kiln, if you go
to a pet shop and get a 100 or 200 watt heat bulb or ceramic heat emitters,
that would probably work better than the regular house hold light bulb.
They are made just for giving off heat. some of the boxes have
a temp chart on the side. Temps of over 100 deg F are common.
Just make sure you use a ceramic fixture also available
at pet shops, probably other places too.

Here are a couple of links so you can see what they are.

http://64.233.169.104/search?q=cach...lbs&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=us&client=firefox-a

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/2535/product.web
 
Originally posted by MesquiteMan

I had some do that when I first started perfecting the process. The solution, for me at least, is to cook the blank in a toaster oven at 200 F. for 8 or so hours. Then cast the blank while it is still hot. Also, you really need to remove any bark for the best results. I just did some mesquite and was so excited about the cool cracks that I did not take the time to cook them. The mesquite was very dry and had been cut for a number of years but it still did not work right. The next batch I cooked and they were perfect.
Click to expand...

Curtis

Do you do this with all your worthless wood blanks prior to casting or just the ones you anticipate will have a problem?
 
Thanks Curtis. I just received my molds today. I thought all I had left to get was a scale from Walmart, but apparently I need a toaster as well :D
 
Originally posted by LandfillLumber

Why not make a small dry kiln,
Click to expand...
Here's mine I have been using for years to dry blanks, speed cures, and most anything else I need about 100 to 200 degrees F for. It uses a 100 watt bulb from the bottom and a little pancake fan in the upper corner to keep the heat even.

200813025322_Dryer%20001.jpg


200813025354_Dryer%20002.jpg


200813025530_Dryer%20003.jpg


200813025546_Dryer%20004.jpg
 
When doing worthless wood casts I go heavy with the catalyst for that reason. Don't be afraid to add a bit more catalyst. I have never had any not set this way. Even whan the resin is in real thin areas. I usually use 7.5cc of catalyst for a normal cast, but with worthless wood casts I use 10cc. This is what works for me. I know most people are afraid to go heavy with it but it works. Just dont go to much or the heat created from the chem. reaction will cause it to crack. Oh and my measurements are based on 8oz of resin. Hope this helps.
 
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