Worst Kits?

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DurocShark

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I mentioned the other day that a customer requested the click version of the Classic American pen. I ugh'd but agreed to give it a shot.

This has GOT to be the biggest piece'o'crap I've used. Oddly, the click mechanism itself isn't bad. But the top tube is sloppy down by the CB and rattles around. The slip over the lower barrel for the click movement is a PITA. And I've never liked the nib assembly.

So far this is the only kit I really have ZERO interest in EVER making again. I told my customer "no way in heck..." He was disappointed but now wants a long click. :cool:

So what's YOUR least favorite kit?
 
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So what's YOUR least favorite kit?
Artisan.

It is a fine looking kit, in my opinion, but I have yet to figure out how to properly install the insert that allows the cap to post. I've ruined about three kits trying to figure it out. Sadly, I have several more kits that I am unwilling to mess with. My choices seem to be either destroy the kit trying to make it work or don't build the kits. Either way, its a big waste of money.
 
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So what's YOUR least favorite kit?
Artisan.

It is a fine looking kit, in my opinion, but I have yet to figure out how to properly install the insert that allows the cap to post. I've ruined about three kits trying to figure it out. Sadly, I have several more kits that I am unwilling to mess with. My choices seem to be either destroy the kit trying to make it work or don't build the kits. Either way, its a big waste of money.


Steve, the term "artisan" is now being used as the "family name" of all of CSUSA's "better" pen kits. Can you please specify which kit is the one you are having difficulties with??

(Never know, someone MAY have a suggestion, but the question is, currently too vague)
THANKS!!!!
 
Any of the slimline pencils! Never built one that the lead didn't break constantly in. I don't know if it's a problem with the collet inside that grips the lead, or an alignment problem with the tube in the nib, or what, but every one I ever did was junk. And as a final insult, after a few months of breaking leads, they eventually quit clicking alltogether!
 
CSUSA combo pen/pencil kit. Fortunately, I only made it for my son, but the mechanism did not hold up more than a couple days. Even got a couple replacement transmissions, but same thing... :frown:
 
So what's YOUR least favorite kit?
Artisan.

It is a fine looking kit, in my opinion, but I have yet to figure out how to properly install the insert that allows the cap to post. I've ruined about three kits trying to figure it out. Sadly, I have several more kits that I am unwilling to mess with. My choices seem to be either destroy the kit trying to make it work or don't build the kits. Either way, its a big waste of money.


Steve, the term "artisan" is now being used as the "family name" of all of CSUSA's "better" pen kits. Can you please specify which kit is the one you are having difficulties with??

(Never know, someone MAY have a suggestion, but the question is, currently too vague)
THANKS!!!!
Artisan:
pen_artisan_new.jpg
 
Ditto on the Artisan...glad I am not the only one who had trouble with the cap posting.

Also any slimline from Rockler...terrible transmissions....the reason I vowed to never make another slimline
 
The "fancy slimlines" I got from Smitty have better transmissions than most of the slims I've used. I just got a pack of Antique Bronzes today from him, and I likey!

There are several different slimline transmissions out there. Don't write 'em all off because of the "funline" and Woodcraft cheapies.

Next week I'll be ordering a big pack of Ti slims from Ed too. I like slims now that I've come up with a regular mod that looks good and makes for a solid pen.
 
I have only made one majestic Jr. fountain. I do not want to make another. The cap can easily unscrew in your pocket, and the clip has often gotten caught and almost broke multiple times.

Classic click, mechanism sucks.

I have yet to find a good click. The standard that I am holding to is a Pilot G2 or better, if it can't pass my tests I don't make it for customers.
 
gemini.jpg


My wife stumbled upon a picture of the PSI Gemini 24kt Gold Click Pen Kit and loved the wavey clip etc, I tried to put her off the idea especially as it was 24k gold and that is one plating I do not use.

As usual my good lady got her own way, I ordered 1 x Gemini kit and some Majestic kits to make the order worth while, the day came for me to make this kit and I hated every step, really cheapo feel to all the parts and even when complete it was shocking, horrible! :eek::eek::eek::eek:

I was so dusgusted, then the thought that my wife might take it into her work and show it off that I smashed the pen with a hammer, no way am I putting my name against that crap. :redface:

My wife settled for a Sierra click to use as her daily pen, much better!!!
 
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Lol...

Lots of people like that kind of clip, so I steal 'em from all the giveaway pens I can and use them on Pentel conversions.

il_fullxfull.179848409.jpg
 
Looks to me like the artisan and the Classic American are the same kit but sold through different vendors. Either way, I put this kit at the very very top of the junk heap. It doesn't matter if it is a screw cap or click cap...they both suck. The worst part of the kit is that the nib section will break off soon and the customer will be calling for a repair. Otherwise, it's ugly, doesn't fit right and every plating I've tried on that kit wears off like wet paint.

#2 on my list is the 7mm click pens from CSUSA. Those are good for 5 clicks...if you can even get it to click the first time!

#3 ...the El Grande/Churchill pens with plastic nib section. The new ones with steel nib sections are good, but the old plastic ones..just like the Classic American..nib section snaps right off.
 
Funline - they look OK, but when you try to disassemble them, the transmission housing breaks apart.

Artisan - I don't care for the plastic 'snap cap' - they are a PITA to insert the first place (hint: prethread them using a self-tapping screw rather than try to let the threaded stud under the cap cut threads as it is installed), and damn near impossible to remove if you need to disassemble the pen. The metal cap at the end of the body is really tacky. And the fountain pen doesn't come with a converter.
 
My least favorite so far has been the woodshop pencil by Rocklers, it's just like all the other companies sketch pencil only without a tube or anything else that would make it look good and fit properly. A true POS.
 
sbell111;1106425[/quote said:

In spite of making sure that the upper end remain the correct length (the length of the tube) I have always had to trim the plastic nib cap almost to the point of having very little thread left. I guess if I were to do another one (which isn't going to happen) I would allow extra length to the cap end of the blank. File this one under "lesson learned" :smile:
 
CSUSA`s Executive pen with its grinding threads and cheapo parts, followed by the Polaris from PSI. The clicker mech is crap.
The Vertex is a very smooth operating clicker.
i think my favorite is the Retro, although I dont think others see it the same as me. I have only sold 1 :O(
 
I refuse to touch the polaris kit. Absolute trash...

Also, anything in 24ct gold.

I really only make Jr Series pens (gent II, marshall, statesman II, emperor) from Dayacom, Sierra's and Elegant Beauties. Every now and then i go for something different like a stretch rollerball, but not often.
 
Love this topic!!

But what is???

any kit with a "tenon"

Making a tenon means that you have to take away some wood from the end of a turned blank to allow insertion of the center band over the tube.

The 7mm euro model is the worst because you can't remove the wood all the way to the tube and you have to leave enough wood to be able to glue the center band.

Hope this was clear for you because it's not for me :)

Found a link with psoto . Look at # 12 and further

http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=574
 
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I mentioned the other day that a customer requested the click version of the Classic American pen. I ugh'd but agreed to give it a shot.

This has GOT to be the biggest piece'o'crap I've used. Oddly, the click mechanism itself isn't bad. But the top tube is sloppy down by the CB and rattles around. The slip over the lower barrel for the click movement is a PITA. And I've never liked the nib assembly.

So far this is the only kit I really have ZERO interest in EVER making again. I told my customer "no way in heck..." He was disappointed but now wants a long click. :cool:

So what's YOUR least favorite kit?

I've bought 3 or 4 of these kits... so far I was successful with the very first one in deer antler and have been using it for almost 8 years... the other 2 or 3 never worked right and wound up in the trash.

The one that does work is kinda loosey goosey, but does work... it's also cracked where I dropped it and it landed on the clip that got driven into the antler, but I sure had to chase truckers down the dock to keep them from stealing it.
 
I wish I saw this sooner. My wife wanted a Classic American Click for a coworker's retirement. Went good til I assembled it, it doesn't work very well. I did forget to put the gold front band on the nib so that might be part of it. I'm hoping it's just spring tension, gonna try a different spring before I try to disassemble, but at least I have a few extra kits in case I break something.
I'm reviving a zombie thread in the hopes that someone can give me a tip on the pen. I've never disassembled one before, I presume at least one piece gets broken in the process.
 
CSUSA combo pen/pencil kit. Fortunately, I only made it for my son, but the mechanism did not hold up more than a couple days. Even got a couple replacement transmissions, but same thing... :frown:

I've got to agree with this. I bought five. Made 3 and every one broke quickly(either immediately or within a couple of days. I threw the other 2 kits away. I ended up very disappointed that CSUSA would sell these and continue to sell them.
 
Love this topic!!

But what is???

any kit with a "tenon"

A tenon is a notch cut into the wood at one end of a pen barrel. On some pens, the center band slides over the pen tube. To make the CB and the barrel meet smoothly, the wood under the CB must be removed to make space for the CB. So a 1/8" to 3/16" wide notch is cut into the barrel reducing it's diameter so the CB will fit smoothly up to the barrel. The CB is then glued to the tenon.

Tenon type pens can be identified by the ring provided in the bushing set to set the size on the tenon.
 
I HATE slimms! Even the nicer ones look cheap to me and the mechanism is cheesy even when it works correctly.....but I think my objection to them is more aesthetic than quality in some of the better ones.

I gave a freind a Polaris when I first started turning pens........that thing was awful and I have since replaced it with a nice Jr Gent in caribou antler.
 
any kit with a "tenon"

My second pen was a European. I didn't realize it had a tenon. Big mistake for an novice turner, but I got thru it. But I turned my opinion around on these kits -- I do my Euros without the center band, kind of like the KC Twist from CSUSA.

Now my least favorite are "any slims". Just not crazy about the skinny look, and especially do not like the looks of beefing them up with oversized blanks tapering down to finial, center band, and nib. Reminds me of the plump kid in junior high who was always squeezed into too tight jeans. :eek:
 
I would say the Guardian Jr. It is really not terrible, and there are a lot of things that I like about the kit, but they just don't sell well for me.

I will say that I LOVE Slims. I can go out in the shop right now and make a slim and KNOW that it will sell. It is literally money in the bank. I will take 85% gross profit on a pen anytime.
 
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