Wooden push pins

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ldubia

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I am going to make a slew of wooden push per a request and need to know where I might find the pin part or if I can use something else suitable for this. Does anyone have any ideas? I have an order for 24 dozen!
 
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You can probably buy them at staples and break off the clear plastic cheaper than just buying a couple dozen pins from a supplier. In fact, turn the plastic to a diameter of the hole you dilled in the wood and epoxy it in there, then turn the wood.
 

ldb2000

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If you are going to break 288 pins from plastic you better have a few good , stiff drinks to start . Try a local hobby store or a place like Micromark and get a package of "T" pins and cut off the tops . The "T" pins would probably be best because it will leave long enough pins to glue in .
Good luck , after 2 gross of those you won't want to look at a lathe for awhile .
 

alphageek

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If you are going to break 288 pins from plastic you better have a few good , stiff drinks to start . Try a local hobby store or a place like Micromark and get a package of "T" pins and cut off the tops . The "T" pins would probably be best because it will leave long enough pins to glue in .
Good luck , after 2 gross of those you won't want to look at a lathe for awhile .

Ugg.. that was my thought too... Its a really cool idea, but nearly 300 little pins... :eek::eek:
 

sdemars

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I gotta ask, what are charging for these?

I don't really expect an answer, just laughing when I think about someone paying $5.00 a piece for these . . . .

Steve
 

penhead

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I agree with the 'T' pins..you can get a box of those at most local office supply houses (box of 100 for $3.99)...so for less than $15 and a bunch of pen blank cutoffs you are on a roll...very neat idea...!
 

KenV

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Those t-pins will take a good sized pliars to snip -- but easier is the cutting disk on a dremel. The same disk will let you make a few scratches in the shank.

This is a good place for slow set epoxy --

Waste block and glue for mounting bits of leftover pieces of what ever for turning.

1/4 inch flutless gouge or 1/4 inch gouge with a Cindy Drozda grind works well.

Have fun -- and let your self go with shapes and sizes amd materials.
 

ldubia

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GREAT ideas all

Those t-pins will take a good sized pliars to snip -- but easier is the cutting disk on a dremel. The same disk will let you make a few scratches in the shank.

This is a good place for slow set epoxy --

Waste block and glue for mounting bits of leftover pieces of what ever for turning.

1/4 inch flutless gouge or 1/4 inch gouge with a Cindy Drozda grind works well.

Have fun -- and let your self go with shapes and sizes amd materials.


I like the T-pin idea many of you came up with. I was so focused on getting these set up I forgot to look outside the darn box for the obvious. :eek::rolleyes: That was such a simple solution I can just kick myself...or not!:biggrin:

Thanks everyone for the solutions.

I gotta ask, what are charging for these?

I don't really expect an answer, just laughing when I think about someone paying $5.00 a piece for these . . . .

Steve

Seven of these packets are going to the wife for presents to her co-workers, etc. A few others are Christmas presents to family, etc. Then there are the few dozen I will put out for sale at $10 for 6. I plan on "playing" with the shapes and seeing what comes out. The wife wants many different woods so pen blank cutoffs are perfect. I even have a few acrylic/wood pieces somewhere I have been trying out for seam rippers and pen blanks. Casting is fun, messy, and sometimes works well. :eek::biggrin:

Thanks again for the help everyone.

The bright lights of the obvious often blind us to its use. (Me)
 

ldb2000

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The only problem with straight pins is their thickness . If they are only going to be used in corkboard they would be ok but if someone tried to use them in anything harder they would most likely bend , pushpins are normaly much thicker .
 

PenMan1

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Turn your push pin head, then shoot a 3/8" 18 guage brad into the head (using HALF of less of the recommended air for the brad gun. Cut it to the proper length with side cutters and refinish the point with a grinder. DAMHIKT:)

If you have one of the $400 headless pin brad guns that my wife won't let me have, you don't have to gind the point.
 
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