Wooden Pen Boxes

[Dan Masshardt]

I tried my hand at making some wooden boxes.

I will evolve the process as time goes on and decide whether I want to make an insert. I actually like the idea of using different patterned fabric to hold the pen.

I'll probably also continue to mess around with different kinds of handles or no handle. Maybe try to vary them so they're unique.

 

[Fay Prozora]

Great job Dan. They are beautiful! If I make any pen boxes, they will be done on a scroll saw. I'm not good with a router and I don't have a full size one but do have the Dremel and the router attachment and shaper table so that might help with mine. your are great. Is this the first time making them? Fay

 

[SteveG]

These are nice Dan. A good looking start at box making.

 

[Skewer]

Those are great!

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Great job Dan. They are beautiful! If I make any pen boxes, they will be done on a scroll saw. I'm not good with a router and I don't have a full size one but do have the Dremel and the router attachment and shaper table so that might help with mine. your are great. Is this the first time making them? Fay

Fay, yes these are my first try. I'm still processing where I want to go with them next.

I think my eventual goal is to provide every pen over a certain $ with a box I made.

I'll probably continue to modify a design until I get one that I like and then do batches of 10 at a time or something like that.

I did invest in a good router table setup late last year and just broke out my box joint jig for the first time for these.

 

[Falcon1220]

Looks great

 

[Dan Masshardt]

These are nice Dan. A good looking start at box making.

Steve,

Is this thickness a little better? This is the maple lidded one.

 

[ladycop322]

Beautiful boxes Dan!

 

[SteveG]

Dan, as I mentioned in the PM, your wall thickness shown here is getting close to what I consider about right. It may be the perspective of the photo, but the taller box appears to be slightly thinner, and looks good. You can play around with different designs and different joinery, and get wide variation in box designs. Also, you can go much thinner in wall thickness (less than .25 inch), and it still looks good. With the right joints, there is plenty of strength in thin walls for boxes this size. Boxes (flat work type) can be a lot of fun.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Dan - those are super! I agree with your goal of providing a box with "higher end" pens. And those boxes would be fantastic. They're so nice I don't want to rain on the parade - but
might they be too much? I'm guessing but based on their appearance (awesome) I'd bet you have AT LEAST an hour's labor in each one.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Dan - those are super! I agree with your goal of providing a box with "higher end" pens. And those boxes would be fantastic. They're so nice I don't want to rain on the parade - but might they be too much? I'm guessing but based on their appearance (awesome) I'd bet you have AT LEAST an hour's labor in each one.

that's a good question. It took longer to make the first ones than they will take in the future I think.

I'm thinking I could prob get 10 out in 2 hours with the right approach. That may be wishful thinking though.

 

[SteveG]

Dan, what you might find useful is to design and build boxes with two primary objectives as the goal:
1. Design/make a box that really adds to the "WOW!" factor that will compliment your pens, without overpowering them.

2. Design into the design aspects that accomplish the "Wow" (Not hard to do, especially with nice woods.), but also lend themselves to mass (or multiples) production. Try making a design you really like, then tinker with that design to make it multiple production-friendly. The K.I.S.S. principle comes into play for this.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Resawed enough for 11 more box sides. Took them a bit thinner

 

[mmayo]

What kind of jig do you use to make your finger joints?

Thanks

 

[Dan Masshardt]

What kind of jig do you use to make your finger joints? Thanks

I have a incra ibox jig. Works quite well. This was my first time using it. Very easy overall.

I set it up on my router table but it works with table saw as well.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Next I'm trying the miter joints instead of the box joints. Glue is drying....

 

[SteveG]

Dan, I am liking the wall thickness shown here on the the latest, your miter joint box. A miter joint is inherently weak, but can be easily strengthened by adding a couple of visible splines across the joint. You might have seen these in some small box designs. I have done them the thickness of the table saw blade. After the box is glued, you cut a slot on the TS, cutting across the joint, slightly less than all the way through the wood. I used a jig to hold the box positioned standing up on the corner so as to get a 45* cut when cut on the table saw. Then cut some contrasting spline stock just thick enough to get a snug-fit glue joint. With splines, you can play with the spacing, thickness and numbers to yield a variety of design accents to your boxes.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Yes, I'm doing the splines. The drawback Is that the thinner the walls go the smaller the spline unless you want it inside.

With this one I may use veneer slices like David from timberbits does instead of thicker ones.

Given that the box doesn't need to be exceptionally strong, I'm not that worried about it.

 

[wyone]

I personally like the box joints.. to me it appears to take much more skill and labor. I think regardless of what you make, they are all AWESOME. I used to make some jewelry boxes with very thin walls and the most difficult seemed to be getting uniform thickness, and reliable joints. Of course that was like 30 years ago and I hope I am more accomplished than I was then.

Regardless... I am impressed

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

+1 what wyone said - I'm thinking the box joints are more unique and, therefore, will garner more attention (sales).

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I think the box joints are more unique too.

Maybe have some of each. I think the miters are going to be a little quicker to make but we'll see.

I'm debating whether to just include them with certain pens and work the price in or offer then as a buy up / separate option.

 

[SteveG]

I figured you would likely be way ahead of my thinking and suggestion on the use of splines...and you are. Something else came to mind as I was thinking back on when I used to make boxes quite a bit (This was pre-penturning timeframe for me.) I also enhanced the splines by using a dovetail router bit to make the cut instead of the TS. This produced a nice bowtie or dovetail look to the spline effect, which really dressed up the box. It did take more work, and careful attention to making a nice fitting spline. Whatever you do, have fun! Don't forget to make pens too! :biggrin:You gotta fill up all those boxes!

 

[Muzzy17is]

Great job Dan. They are beautiful! If I make any pen boxes, they will be done on a scroll saw. I'm not good with a router and I don't have a full size one but do have the Dremel and the router attachment and shaper table so that might help with mine. your are great. Is this the first time making them? Fay

Fay, yes these are my first try. I'm still processing where I want to go with them next.

I think my eventual goal is to provide every pen over a certain $ with a box I made.

I'll probably continue to modify a design until I get one that I like and then do batches of 10 at a time or something like that.

I did invest in a good router table setup late last year and just broke out my box joint jig for the first time for these.

Dan did you build your box joint jig for your router or did you use a store bought one? Boxes look great!

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Dan did you build your box joint jig for your router or did you use a store bought one? Boxes look great!

I'm using the incra ibox jig. It works on tablesaw or router table.

 

[DrBen]

Is this thickness a little better? This is the maple lidded one.

Yes, thinner is better. When the thickness approaches the pen diameter, the pen gets lost and the box takes over. I think the box sides should be no thicker than 1/4" max. Also, keep the box height fairer low. The box should showcase the pen. The box can be elegant and attractive, but should not steal the show.

You might also consider a "clamshell" box. It's only two pieces, can be made with thicker wood and has a routed channel to hold the pen. Here's an example:

http://www.szymanskiwoodpens.com/images/single_pen_box_maple2.jpg

Benoît

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Yes, thinner is better. When the thickness approaches the pen diameter, the pen gets lost and the box takes over. I think the box sides should be no thicker than 1/4" max. Also, keep the box height fairer low. The box should showcase the pen. The box can be elegant and attractive, but should not steal the show. You might also consider a "clamshell" box. It's only two pieces, can be made with thicker wood and has a routed channel to hold the pen. Here's an example: http://www.szymanskiwoodpens.com/images/single_pen_box_maple2.jpg Benoît

Not really my style. Psi sells those. Pen on wood bugs me for some reason. If I flocked it maybe.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Mahogony with Zebrawood handle. Splined miters. No insert material yet.

 

[dogrunner]

that looks pretty good

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I made an insert.

 

[Big]

Did you buy the insert buy the sheet and cut it?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Did you buy the insert buy the sheet and cut it?

Cut a piece of wood to size, routed a. 3/4" round slot, covered in black felt.

 

[wyone]

I like fabric or felt better than flocking.. flocking is almost like fingernails on a chalkboard to me. lol

 

[kruzzer]

Dan, nice work they look great..

 

[DrBen]

When I retired four years ago, after 22 years of service to the same employer, I received a rather ordinary wooden pen in a cardboard box. (I guess the days of an inscribed gold watch have gone the way of the dodo.)

The same pen in one of your boxes would have been a thousand times better!

 

[Dan Masshardt]

This one I made today has a groove in the handle that can be a pen rest / display.