Woodcraft Click Pen

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BernieW

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
72
Location
Goodland, Kansas, USA.
I have a question about the woodcraft click pen. I bought a half dozen six months ago and made one for the wife and the others for some friends. They wanted a click type pen. They worked pretty well and haven't had any problems with them. My wife went to the bank and pulled out her pen. Well long story short there were about 12 people who wanted a pen like she had. So I ordered actually 14 in case I messed one up. I have turned 11 of them and my problem is that some of the pieces when you put them into the barrels instead of having to press them in I can real easily push them in by hand. Some are the nibs, some are the center band with the threads and some are the tops. Only two of them did I have to press all the pieces in. I don't turn a lot of pens but this is frustrating. I had it happen on a couple of Sierras but used a dab of epoxy and they were fine. I did put a dab of epoxy on the different parts and pressed into place but that seems like a awful lot trouble. Is this common with pen kits or did I just get a bad batch? Thanks.
 
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I would go back to your Woodcraft store and speak with them. They do sell extra tubes. Maybe you can swap them out. I did that with some Wall Street II that I bought and the tubes were too loose. They exchanged my tubes with some extra that they sell. They said that they would send them back. I find that all the people who sell pen kits are very good about sending extra or missing pieces or parts that aren't working properly.
 
Hi Bernie, Sounds like a plating thickness difference. If it is sometimes the top,center and tip on different kits. I had bought a bunch that I had to sand them to get them to fit. Had to crack 2 tubes to realize it.
Also remember if you are useing CA to hold them in to let them DEGAS before you insert the ink and put the top on. You will end up with a white power all over the transmission and ink cartridge.
Also I would let them know at woodcraftes about this. Rich H.
 
I agree. I've had this problem on various kits from time to time, and I just add a drop of CA to the fittings and push it in. Rich is right about letting the CA degas, or you end up with a white film all over everything.
 
Thanks so much for your help. I was hoping I wasn't messing up. As far as taking the tubes back I didn't think to check them out before I glued them in the blanks.

I used a dab of epoxy on each side of the part then give it a small twist when inserting. Is epoxy ok or would CA be better? Thanks again.
 
Using CA

I am currently working on a dozen click pens for a client. The first 3 had the same problem with less than a press fit. I used a small drop of med ca and it worked well. Hope I never need to pop the cap or nib on those for any reason.

I have don this on a few other pens also, mostly slimlines. I frequently cleanout the inside of the tubes wiht a gun cleaner brass brush. I may be actually doing minor 'filing' on the brass and making the tube opening a little bigger?

Try the ca.
 
Bernie,

Since you bought the pen kits from Woodcraft, I assume you bought the bushings there also. I never, ever use Woodcrfat bushings. They are garbage. If you buy 20 sets of bushings, you might be able to put one set together that is not out of round, drilled off center, etc. Never use their bushings. I buy their pen kits, but use bushings from pen turners products: http://www.penturnersproducts.com/
or CSUSA. Once you try turning between centers, you will never go back.

Good Luck,
Dan
 
CA is not the best thing to use on any plated part . The CA out gasses as it cures and can ruin the plating on the parts . One of the best thing it use is one of the "Loctite thread lockers" I use the Red but any color will work . It won't harm the plating and is very strong while being reversible if you ever need to take it apart .
 
CA is bad for this purpose. Epoxy works great. I use a toothpick and apply just a small amount after the epoxy has started to thicken. Using epoxy to secure the pieces is a good habit to develop as it will keep the pieces from loosening up over time. All of the slims that I made before I started using epoxy have clips that spin around and/or the nib piece turns.
 
I'm finding this problem with more and more pens and accessories, I just got a bunch of tooth pick holders and same thing, the bottom will just push in and pull out by hand, all of the tops press OK ,
 
Sorry I didn't get back sooner but out of town on business. Managers meetings. What fun. I did use epoxy and found it had slightly setup it worked better and is holding fine. I will give the loctite a try. I also had some trouble with a couple of them with the click mechanism not clicking up and down. I used a gun cleaning brush and then the lambs wool patch. Nice, shiny tube and they both now work like a charm. Seems the pen mill didn't clean out all the glue or dust.

Thanks again for your kind help. It is appreciated.
 
heinedan said:
Bernie,

Since you bought the pen kits from Woodcraft, I assume you bought the bushings there also. I never, ever use Woodcrfat bushings. They are garbage. If you buy 20 sets of bushings, you might be able to put one set together that is not out of round, drilled off center, etc. Never use their bushings. I buy their pen kits, but use bushings from pen turners products: http://www.penturnersproducts.com/
or CSUSA. Once you try turning between centers, you will never go back.

Good Luck,
Dan
Click to expand...


Dan I looked and he doesn't have bushings for the woodcraft click pen. I wish he did but will contact him to see if it is possible to get some. Thanks for the site.
 
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