wood & plastic blank

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Randy, before you finish the blank you have to "prep" it. This is what I do. Once I am done turning and before final sanding I apply some thin CA on the wood areas to harden any exposed fiber. Then I proceed to sand up to 12000MM and apply a CA finish. If the wood is really dense, like Ironwood, you can get away with just plastic polish and buffing. But for softer woods, like box elder, I apply a CA finish. The key is to be careful sanding. Because the "plastic" will very likely be harder than the wood you can end up with some low spots on the softer wood parts. To avoid the low spots I use thin CA on I use light pressure and also, with the coarser grits, I wrap the paper around a popsicle stick for a more uniform surface.
 
Your second option, if you want a satin sheen or prefer spraying lacquers instead of the hazards of CA finishes (which I have a LOT of, some people don't) you can just spray it all with lacquer.

However, you have to use caution. I recommend that you go ahead and micromesh or wheel-buff the entire blank to get the surface flawlessly smooth, but then commit a felony and mildly scuff the blank with some 600 grit paper or some 0000 steel wool. Lacquer requires something to stick to, especially on plastics (which are not porous like wood), and this mild scuffing will do just that.

Then dip or spray all ya want.
 
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