Woodchipper
Member
I was getting things sorted for turning some pens for a juried museum presentation. I noticed a can of WOP that I have used for other things. Has anyone used it for pen blanks? TIA.
Wipe on Poly?
- Thread starter Woodchipper
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wolf creek knives
Member
I just bought a can of WOP. I really hope someone else chimes in as I'd love to use this and see how it turns out.
Woodchipper
Member
I did a beehive turning with a chunk of cherry. Turned (no pun intended) out good, IMHO.
jttheclockman
Member
Les does his famous dip method using wipe on poly so check it out. In library also.
mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
I have used WOP for many, many pens. I was draw to it as some of my segmented blanks had many small pieces and joint lines and a more flexible finish than CA seemed logical. I did not use Les' method, but simply used a cotton cloth to apply it, then put it on a slow speed motor attached to a spare mandrel and placed under a heat lamp. This reduced the time for the poly to able to have another coat applied from about 4 hrs to one hr. It still was very time-consuming - about 4-5 coats in 5-6 hrs. I would then wait 2-3 days for the poly to get cured enough to handle. Temperature and humidity will influence the curing. I still have some pens with 200+ joint lines and no cracks.
I have recently (last 6 months) switched to Glu Boost, which I like so far. I have yet to construct any segmented pens with many joint lines with this finish.
I have recently (last 6 months) switched to Glu Boost, which I like so far. I have yet to construct any segmented pens with many joint lines with this finish.
monophoto
Member
I've used both solvent and water-based poly on pens. Works well, but as others have noted, it is necessary to allow several hours for the finish to cure between coats. I used the wipe-on method (as opposed to the dipping method) - dipping is faster, but I could never justify the setup.
After it has been cured, WOP can be buffed to a high gloss. And it is tough - the water-based stuff I used was actually sold as floor finish, and is designed to take a real beating. Earlier this year, wife and I had some hardwood floors installed and had a conversation with the contractor about the choice of finishes. He normally uses solvent-based poly, which is what we chose because it looks better, but he did say that the water-based stuff is far tougher and more resistant to abuse - a factor that is of interest to pen makers.
After it has been cured, WOP can be buffed to a high gloss. And it is tough - the water-based stuff I used was actually sold as floor finish, and is designed to take a real beating. Earlier this year, wife and I had some hardwood floors installed and had a conversation with the contractor about the choice of finishes. He normally uses solvent-based poly, which is what we chose because it looks better, but he did say that the water-based stuff is far tougher and more resistant to abuse - a factor that is of interest to pen makers.
Woodchipper
Member
Thanks to all. Will try it even though the cure time is much greater than CA. I could rig up a heat lamp with a regular bulb and desk lamp.
Mark, how do you like Glu-Boost? See it mentioned a lot here.
Mark, how do you like Glu-Boost? See it mentioned a lot here.
mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
I will freely admit to previously having issues with CA finishes. That is my weakest element in penturning. I have been very happy with GluBoost. I typically do 3+3 coats, then wait overnight to do the final micromesh series and McGuires Plastic Polish. Some woods I prefer a more "wood" feel, so just use 1-2 coats less; others I want a solid finish so use 1-2 coats more. The accelerator is needed. And IMO waiting overnight the finish is more cured and harder and takes a better shine.
This is my simple light box and the slow speed spinner. Bruce Robbins shared with me the construction of the spinner (cost less than $10.00; vs the one PSI sells for much more).
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Woodchipper
Member
Mark, thanks for the information.
FWIW, a good slow turner is a microwave motor. If you see one at the curb, grab it. Many people toss it when all it needs is a fuse. Found this many times. The gizmo at the right is the slow turner, about 4-5 rpm.
FWIW, a good slow turner is a microwave motor. If you see one at the curb, grab it. Many people toss it when all it needs is a fuse. Found this many times. The gizmo at the right is the slow turner, about 4-5 rpm.
monophoto
Member
One further comment on poly - - -
The usual practice with a CA finish is to apply many thin coats, and then sand/buff after it has cured. It's possible to do the same think with poly - in fact, if you are using wipe-on poly, you pretty much have to do that because the poly contains a lot of solvent.
But there is another approach with poly that you may want to try - sometimes called 'rotisserie finishing'. In this approach, rather than using commercial wipe-on poly (or regular poly with additional solvent), you apply heavy coats of regular unthinned polyurethane - with a brush. This is normally done with solvent-based poly, but I have done it with water-based material. Leave the piece rotating on the lathe running at its lowest possible speed (ideally, 20-40 r/min) for at least an hour or until the poly 'sets up'. Allow it to cure fully (probably overnight), and then repeat the process. The person who taught this method to me recommended four heavy coats of poly. Then, after the poly has fully cured, sand through the grits (being careful to not sand through the poly) and buff.
The trick in this approach is the heavy application of poly combined with the continuous rotation. If you just left is stationary, you would get drips and runs - disaster - but because the piece continues to rotate as the poly cures, it self-levels.
The usual practice with a CA finish is to apply many thin coats, and then sand/buff after it has cured. It's possible to do the same think with poly - in fact, if you are using wipe-on poly, you pretty much have to do that because the poly contains a lot of solvent.
But there is another approach with poly that you may want to try - sometimes called 'rotisserie finishing'. In this approach, rather than using commercial wipe-on poly (or regular poly with additional solvent), you apply heavy coats of regular unthinned polyurethane - with a brush. This is normally done with solvent-based poly, but I have done it with water-based material. Leave the piece rotating on the lathe running at its lowest possible speed (ideally, 20-40 r/min) for at least an hour or until the poly 'sets up'. Allow it to cure fully (probably overnight), and then repeat the process. The person who taught this method to me recommended four heavy coats of poly. Then, after the poly has fully cured, sand through the grits (being careful to not sand through the poly) and buff.
The trick in this approach is the heavy application of poly combined with the continuous rotation. If you just left is stationary, you would get drips and runs - disaster - but because the piece continues to rotate as the poly cures, it self-levels.
mmayo
Member
I use Minwax WOP for coasters and most other furniture projects. It is great. It is best with overnight between coats.
jttheclockman
Member
I have used Formby's wipe on poly for all my woodwork in the house. Polly is poly. It is a hard finish but like all top coat finishes it will scratch so be aware of this.
Woodchipper
Member
Thanks to all for your replies. John T. brings out a Caveat.
stevemorris
Member
i use minwax "tung oil" which as far as i know is just a poly urethane/oil mix diluted for a wipe on finish
works very well but as stated above, slow drying/curing
on the other hand, much faster labour wise, very little sanding/buffing. i use 4 coats, 1200 grit between each coat(very lightly) and then beall buffing/wax after the last coat
works very well but as stated above, slow drying/curing
on the other hand, much faster labour wise, very little sanding/buffing. i use 4 coats, 1200 grit between each coat(very lightly) and then beall buffing/wax after the last coat