White & Lighter Acrylics

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renowb

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May 27, 2009
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I hate it when I turn down a white or lighter acrylic and the ends look dark or black, probably from dust, etc getting in between the blank and tube. I've heard that sealing the ends before turning with CA will work. Will this prevent dark spots? Any comments, suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
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I use CA to glue tubes into "plastics" and after milling the ends I'll seal with thin CA This helps not only with sealing the ends to prevent the problem you're asking about but also wicks into any voids from uneven glue coverage.Hope this helps!
 
I've started doing that (CA treatment) with all my more brittle acrylics. Light and dark alike.
 
I hate it when I turn down a white or lighter acrylic and the ends look dark or black, probably from dust, etc getting in between the blank and tube. I've heard that sealing the ends before turning with CA will work. Will this prevent dark spots? Any comments, suggestions greatly appreciated.

Paint the tube and paint the inside of the blank. You might have to drill a hair wider because of the paint. Scuff lightly so you don't remove the paint. Epoxy them in to fill any gaps. Works like a charm.

Main thing is to never put the stock tube in a white acrylic blank!! Been there and done that... dumb... dumb... dumb! I have a gorgeous white blank with a brass tubes in the two halves. Wiped out the pen. Gonna try to salvage by getting the glue to release with heat.
:wink::wink::wink:
 
Any paint will work, but for white blanks, use a white primer and it will fight CA better than most.

Also "Testors" little bottles, as used in painting plastic models, seems to resist CA quite well.

OR use epoxy to glue--epoxy can also be "tinted" with the color, CA cannot.
 
I vote Testors model paint too. The enamel seems to hold up against the CA and a slightly tight fit.
 
Interesting. I've only used fluidized beds for reef tanks (old fashioned wet/dry filters are better. Don't bother...).

Do you need to keep a charge on the item while dipping?
 
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