Which Tailstock is most Accurate

[aRMdaMAN]

Hello there Guys from across the Pond
I have a "Mini" on which I can't even Drill a decent Round Hole on my Blanks.
I desperately need to Up Grade and have limited my search to two that are available locally. They are the JET 1221 VS and the NOVA 1624 ll .
Both of these are well known in Your parts.
At first glance I liked the Nova with the extra 1.5 HP but have not had clear n definite confirmation from other owners on the ACCURACY of their TAILSTOCKS for our precise Drilling purposes.

At this point in time I don't have any aspirations for "other" Wood Turning Projects, although admittedly we viewed many of the other BOWL, VASE etc. projects.
And so all the Extras like the SWIVEL HEAD, OUTRIGGER and BED EXTENSION on the NOVA have no real attraction for us.

Whilst the JET is a couple Grand cheaper and with the Higher RPM's, I need to ascertain exactly how ACCURATE is their TAILSTOCK for repeated DRILLING.
We hope both these Machines will NOT have SLOPPY, WOBBLY, LOOSE side to SIDE Fitting TAILSTOCKS.

As crazy as it may seem, I was even thinking of looking at a MINI METAL LATHE to resolve my quandary !!! The fit and Finish on "some" of these little Metal Working Machines is superb. However, that only complicates the problem, not resolve it !!! I do not want to get a DRILL PRESS and have had no success even with the PEN CENTERING DRILLING VISE I wasted my money on. That's another story for another era !!!

I hope some of U kind Folks will be able to shed some light to assist us make an informed decision on which of the above TWO will serve us better.
We thank You in advance.
Kind regards
aRM

 

[magpens]

If you have ANY inclinations WHATSOEVER towards a small metal-working lathe, I would strongly encourage going that route.

In fact, where you said "Mini" in your second line above, I was kinda hoping that's what you were about to talk about.

I have been using a 7 x 12 metal-working lathe for about 12 years for making pens of all types . . . wood, plastic, metal.

This lathe is of the Sieg type and is sold under many different brand names . . . highly recommended for pens !!
If you are unsure what I mean, please ask me . . . there are some on display at . . . www . LittleMachineShop . com

 

[Curly]

You could get a morse taper alignment tool or have one made locally and see how well the head and tailstock come together. If you were to get the Nova (I have one made in the 90s) it would be something to have if you get the Nova anyway. Example below.

Nova Acruline 2MT Alignment System

Use the Nova Acruline 2MT Alignment System to bring the centres of your Nova lathe back into perfect alignment. This is especially useful on lathes with a pivoting headstock, which should be realigned when the headstock is moved back to the inline positio

www.kmstools.com

 

[duncsuss]

I can't give you a comparison, but I own a Nova 1624 (mark I). I use it for drilling on lathe and it works well for me.

There's a plate that can be loosened (4 hex-head bolts) to let you re-align the tailstock, I use the Acruline that Curly linked to but there are other brands besides Nova who make a double-ended Morse Taper.

Note that the tailstock ram (or quill, if you prefer that term) goes all the way through the tailstock, so you have to use a knock-out bar to remove things, they won't auto-eject. I consider this to be a positive advantage.

I often make pens without using kits, meaning I use taps and dies to cut threads in the various parts. The tolerances are much tighter than the holes for kit pens, which have the padding of glue to take up any slack.

 

[Curly]

Note that the tailstock ram (or quill, if you prefer that term) goes all the way through the tailstock, so you have to use a knock-out bar to remove things, they won't auto-eject. I consider this to be a positive advantage.

I'll add that the positive is you can put a drawbar (threaded rod or bolt) though the the tailstock to hold your Jacobs chuck. It won't get loose if there is chatter or when you draw the bit back out. The self ejecting tailstock prevents the use of drawbars.

 

[aRMdaMAN]

If you have ANY inclinations WHATSOEVER towards a small metal-working lathe, I would strongly encourage going that route.

In fact, where you said "Mini" in your second line above, I was kinda hoping that's what you were about to talk about.

I have been using a 7 x 12 metal-working lathe for about 12 years for making pens of all types . . . wood, plastic, metal.

This lathe is of the Sieg type and is sold under many different brand names . . . highly recommended for pens !!
If you are unsure what I mean, please ask me . . . there are some on display at . . . www . LittleMachineShop . com

hello there Sir
Thanks a Zillion for taking the time to respond.
U have indeed resolved my major issues I would have had with another Woodworking Lathe. I can't be grateful enough.
Regret the delay on my part - I was busy Researching Tracking and Tracing a similar Lathe which I eventually found Locally.
There are a few Q's I need U to kindly clear up for me.
Allow me to get back to U.
TIA
ATB
TC
aRM

 

[magpens]

hello there Sir
Thanks a Zillion for taking the time to respond.
U have indeed resolved my major issues I would have had with another Woodworking Lathe. I can't be grateful enough.
Regret the delay on my part - I was busy Researching Tracking and Tracing a similar Lathe which I eventually found Locally.
There are a few Q's I need U to kindly clear up for me.
Allow me to get back to U.
TIA
ATB
TC
aRM

@aRMdaMAN

Good to hear from you. . I am always grateful for any replies at any time.

Please feel free to communicate . . . I'll be happy to tell my experiences and offer whatever advice/suggestions that I can.

Hoping to hear further !!

 

[aRMdaMAN]

@aRMdaMAN

Good to hear from you. . I am always grateful for any replies at any time.

Please feel free to communicate . . . I'll be happy to tell my experiences and offer whatever advice/suggestions that I can.

Hoping to hear further !!

 

[aRMdaMAN]

Hello there MAGPENS

I have taken the liberty to attach a few pics of our recent work so's U know I am quite serious about this !!! Know it's in the wrong place. Nevertheless, these are specially for Your eye-balling !!!

At the outset let me say that regrettably I am not that "Techno-Savvy". Been a Pen-Pusher my whole Life, including even now.
However, have made diligent effort through-out my Life and even produced award Winning Knives. That's another story for another day !!

1. To start with, I am grappling with trying to understand how U do Your TURNING.
2. Have U Fabricated a special BANJO ???
3. Is this mounted on the SADDLE ??
4. This SIEG C3 Lathe has a maximum RPM of 3.000. Is this ample enough for our Blank Turning, Finishing and even Friction Polishing, which I like to add to the Natural Woods.
Hear me out on the numerous ADVANTAGES which U know way better
5.1 My DRILLING Problemo is finally resolved for the better
5.2 Pen Blank FACE MILLING would be a Breeze with a DRILL CHUCK mounted in the TAILSTOCK - so I reckon
5.3 We can't get more ACCURATE and PRECISE with TBC - TURNING BETWEEN CENTRES. just need get the right MTapers, both DEAD and LIVE.
5.4 I will assume that like most Lathes in this Category, this will have a REVERSE Function which will be super for SANDING - although we need concentrate more on the Longitudinal on removing Scratches.
5.5 And Finally, not necessarily last, the Lower SPEED would be way better for our CA APPLICATION

This about covers what we reckon would be important to know.
However, we would appreciate every bit of Info U could share as we are going in the morning to finalise purchase of the SIEG
We cannot THANK YOU enough in advance.
Most appreciative and grateful we will always be
Kind regards
LORD BLESS and
STAY SAFE
aRM

 

[aRMdaMAN]

I have taken the liberty to attach a few pics of our recent work so's U know I am quite serious about this !!! Know it's in the wrong place. Nevertheless, these are specially for Your eye-balling !!!

At the outset let me say that regrettably I am not that "Techno-Savvy". Been a Pen-Pusher my whole Life, including even now.
However, have made diligent effort through-out my Life and even produced award Winning Knives. That's another story for another day !!

1. To start with, I am grappling with trying to understand how U do Your TURNING.
2. Have U Fabricated a special BANJO ???
3. Is this mounted on the SADDLE ??
4. This SIEG C3 Lathe has a maximum RPM of 3.000. Is this ample enough for our Blank Turning, Finishing and even Friction Polishing, which I like to add to the Natural Woods.
Hear me out on the numerous ADVANTAGES which U know way better
5.1 My DRILLING Problemo is finally resolved for the better
5.2 Pen Blank FACE MILLING would be a Breeze with a DRILL CHUCK mounted in the TAILSTOCK - so I reckon
5.3 We can't get more ACCURATE and PRECISE with TBC - TURNING BETWEEN CENTRES. just need get the right MTapers, both DEAD and LIVE.
5.4 I will assume that like most Lathes in this Category, this will have a REVERSE Function which will be super for SANDING - although we need concentrate more on the Longitudinal on removing Scratches.
5.5 And Finally, not necessarily last, the Lower SPEED would be way better for our CA APPLICATION

This about covers what we reckon would be important to know.
However, we would appreciate every bit of Info U could share as we are going in the morning to finalise purchase of the SIEG
We cannot THANK YOU enough in advance.
Most appreciative and grateful we will always be
Kind regards
LORD BLESS and
STAY SAFE
aRM

 

[aRMdaMAN]

Ooops !!
Can't delete Duplication ???
aRM

 

[magpens]

Thanks for the pictures "aR" . . . is it OK to call you that ?
You certainly have made a good job of those pens . . . . you don't need any help in that department !!!

From the look of your excellent workmanship, I would say that you DO have some technical savvy !!

As for deleting a duplicate post . . . no, you cannot do that . . . nor can I . . . you will have to request that to be done by "Jeff" or other "admin".

Now, I'll read your Post #9 . . . . stand by !!!

 

[aRMdaMAN]

You could get a morse taper alignment tool or have one made locally and see how well the head and tailstock come together. If you were to get the Nova (I have one made in the 90s) it would be something to have if you get the Nova anyway. Example below.

Nova Acruline 2MT Alignment System

Use the Nova Acruline 2MT Alignment System to bring the centres of your Nova lathe back into perfect alignment. This is especially useful on lathes with a pivoting headstock, which should be realigned when the headstock is moved back to the inline positio

www.kmstools.com

Hello there PETE
Much appreciate the response
kind regards
aRM

 

[aRMdaMAN]

I can't give you a comparison, but I own a Nova 1624 (mark I). I use it for drilling on lathe and it works well for me.

There's a plate that can be loosened (4 hex-head bolts) to let you re-align the tailstock, I use the Acruline that Curly linked to but there are other brands besides Nova who make a double-ended Morse Taper.

Note that the tailstock ram (or quill, if you prefer that term) goes all the way through the tailstock, so you have to use a knock-out bar to remove things, they won't auto-eject. I consider this to be a positive advantage.

I often make pens without using kits, meaning I use taps and dies to cut threads in the various parts. The tolerances are much tighter than the holes for kit pens, which have the padding of glue to take up any slack.

Hello there Sir DUNCAN
U got a nice name
Reminds me of SHAKESPEARE'S MACBETH !!!
Thanks for the response
Much appreciated
ATB
TC
aRM

 

[magpens]

OK . . . here we go . . . first round of comments.

The small metal working lathe has many advantageous features, VERY low speed for CA application being one of them, and reverse another.

I apply CA at an extremely low speed . . so low that the lathe rotation almost stalls . . works great for me after getting used to it.

I have NOT fabricated a special banjo for my lathe.
I use metal-working carbide tool bits mounted in the supplied metal-working tool holder.
The tool bit that I use ALL the time is circular, at 11 mm diameter and 4 mm thickness, and it is carbide . . I use it for EVERYTHING . . lasts forever.
It is held on a "holder" made by one of the IAP members . . . there is really nothing special about the holder.
The holder design is probably what anybody would come up with . . nothing special.

3000 RPM is perfectly adequate for everything I do. . In fact, I rarely exceed 1500 RPM for anything.

With the metal-working lathe, you will want to take much lighter cuts than on your wood-turning lathe even for the rough work of rounding.
The lighter cutting is important . . . but it does go fairly quickly using the hand wheel to move the saddle back and forth.

The 3000 RPM "speed limit" is perfectly adequate for everything that I have attempted, even the things you asked about.

Drilling is a joyful experience, especially if you buy a 4-inch, 4-jaw chuck, which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND.
This gives you a chuck throat diameter of about 0.85 inches, which will "swallow" a full-length rounded pen blank . . . very, very nice feature.

Pen blank end-facing is a breeze, as you already speculated . . . nice square blank ends are a breeze to do.

TBC is also a breeze, with the right accessories . . . please ask about those if you have any questions. . There is another currently-active thread
about TBC in which I have posted a complete description of the accessories that I use.

I will let this do for now, but will add more if you present me with the questions that come to your mind.

I congratulate you on your decision to purchase a Sieg mini-lathe. . I can assure you that you will not regret this purchase.

Please send a pic of your new lathe . . . I would be delighted to see it, and it might prompt some adoring comments !!!!

Looking forward to more communication with you . . . we can use email if you wish . . . I'll send you my address in "conversation".

Cheers and CONGRATULATIONS on your new acquisition !!!