Which skew?

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keithbyrd

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I am gettting ready to invest in a good skew and learn how to use it! Which skew do you recommend? ( I already have a carbide tool so don't sugest that instead:)!) I like the carbide tool but want to expand my skills!
Thanks in advance!
 
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I use the same one Bruce uses. I'm still not good with a skew, but at least I'll use it on a good blank now. At 1st I wouldn't touch a good blank with a skew, but once you get the hang of it, it works well. I really like using it on aluminum segments. The carbide has a tendency to catch with aluminum since it's basically scraping rather than shearing.

And I think I'm just a little ahead of where you are. I will only use my carbide for some final cuts. I wanted to learn how to use all my tools, so that's why I went looking for a skew.
 
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Whose skew is immaterial (IMO)!
Get a 3/4" or larger to start---I prefer oval, but suit yourself.

IF you are turning down a square blank, the heavier the skew, the less vibration you encounter and, therefore, the easier it is. If you are using only on round pieces, then a smaller skew is not too bad.

A skew "catches" when both ends of the tool touch the blank at the same time, so, logically the farther apart the two ends of the blade are, the less chance you will catch. So, a quarter inch is harder to control than a one inch.

I use "Benjamin's Best" from Penn State, their 3/4" oval---they are cheap, so I have several.

I also have two Sorbys---they are a little nicer to use, but I feel I have to be careful with them--at nearly $100 a piece, I am more comfortable with cheap.

YMMV!!!! and probably so will lots of other people's!!
Ed
 
+1 everything that Ed said.

I prefer a flat skew and just round the bottom of the skew so it rotates easily on the tool rest. I find a flat skew easier to sharpen. I'd start with a 1". I also have a 1/4", but only use it on fine finial details.

I was afraid of skews when I first started. Once I realized that it's impossible to get a catch as long as you keep the pointy ends away from your cutting action (and of course ride the bevel), it's turned into my go-to tool for solving problems. Alan Lacer helped a lot too.
 
I use a disk sander to put a flat grind on skews. They do not grab as much as a hollow ground skew.

When you first get your skew, examine the bevel on the skew. You will see it is flat, not hollowed.
 
It's blasphemy to ever put a skew to a grinding wheel! (My opinion, and I'm entitled to it.)

I use a diamond file to hone my skew or if it ever requires sharpening, I use an 800 grit ceramic stone followed by honing with an 8000 grit ceramic stone.

At times I also use 5 micron sand paper with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil covering it.
 
For learning how to use and learning how to sharpen, I went to Harbor Freight and got the $70 HSS set. This way I don't feel so bad messing up on sharpening. I don't feel like messing up a $100+ single tool. Once I master sharpening I will replace my most used tools with high end ones.
 
Mack C. said:
It's blasphemy to ever put a skew to a grinding wheel! (My opinion, and I'm entitled to it.)

I use a diamond file to hone my skew or if it ever requires sharpening, I use an 800 grit ceramic stone followed by honing with an 8000 grit ceramic stone.
Click to expand...

Mack; Yes; I hone a skew or gouge with a credit card style diamond hone about ten times before I need another trip to the sanding disk. The sanding disk is also far less aggressive than the grinder, so I remove less material. I still have my original PSI skew. It is getting too short, but it is about 12 years old.
 
I use a 1-1/4 in skew for rounding and then I use a smaller 3/4 in skew. I would suggest that you look at Cap. Eddie Castelin's method of sharpening the skew, you won't regret it.

Levi Woodard
Woodardwoodworks.com

Sent from my Galaxy player using Forum Runner
 
I'm another that agrees with Ed... it's not the brand of a tool that matters, but the knowledge of how to use them...I also buy most of my tools from PSI - Benjamin's Best -
and they work for me. I have a 1 inch flat skew (actually 2 - one of which I've reground into a flat scraper) and two 1/2 inchers... they actually came with the two sets of tools I got when I got my first lathe and when my son gave me his lathe and tools... if you get a lesser expensive tool, you can learn to sharpen and what shape you like the best without blowing the budget on high price tools that you might mess up in the learning process....

I guess I'm blasphemous because I do periodically take my tools over to a friends house who has a Tormek and a slow speed grinder to sharpen his tools.... I use the grinder to re-shape mine after I've gotten them misshaped on my belt sander that I use for sharpening.
 
theidlemind said:
I'm with Ed on this one, bigger is better.
I use a 1" from start to finish.
Also look into learning to put a "hollow grind" edge on it.
Click to expand...


1" or bigger when you are first learning is the best way to keep from getting catches. As you gain experience and "confidence" try the smaller skews, but a catch will have you grabbling for the 1".
 
Only use a diamond stone to sharpen

Mack C. said:
It's blasphemy to ever put a skew to a grinding wheel! (My opinion, and I'm entitled to it.)

I use a diamond file to hone my skew or if it ever requires sharpening, I use an 800 grit ceramic stone followed by honing with an 8000 grit ceramic stone.

At times I also use 5 micron sand paper with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil covering it.
Click to expand...

I use the Trend Diamond stone, it's great! 300 on one side and 1000 grit on the other. It's about $70. Use with the special Lapping liquid. I can make my skew so sharp that you can shave with it! It only takes 1 minute! I've tried it all, nothing beats this for speed and sharpness.
 
I generally prefer a 1" flat skew chisel that I've radiused the heel. In some ways, a large skew is easier to control than a small one. I do sharpen it on a wet grinder and touch it up with a diamond hone when I feel it's not cutting as well as it should.

Regards,
Eric
 
Ric5 said:
Mack C. said:
It's blasphemy to ever put a skew to a grinding wheel! (My opinion, and I'm entitled to it.)

I use a diamond file to hone my skew or if it ever requires sharpening, I use an 800 grit ceramic stone followed by honing with an 8000 grit ceramic stone.

At times I also use 5 micron sand paper with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil covering it.
Click to expand...

I use the Trend Diamond stone, it's great! 300 on one side and 1000 grit on the other. It's about $70. Use with the special Lapping liquid. I can make my skew so sharp that you can shave with it! It only takes 1 minute! I've tried it all, nothing beats this for speed and sharpness.
Click to expand...

Yeah! but it's much easier & quicker to use a razor that's designed for the job! :biggrin:
 
Lacer grind

I use a 1/2" skew that I reground to the Alan Lacer grind from a typical tool supplier. The brand isn't important as long as the HSS is good. IMHO this grind offers the best of all worlds in versatility as there is a reasonable flat section that transitions to a curve.

I also have a 1-3/8 with the same grind but I don't use it for pens.
 
I took the class I mentioned in a previous post. In the class (It wound up being 1-on-1 at the instructor's studio) I was able to try almost every type and size of skew available (at least a dozen different ones) and I settled on an Ashley Iles 1-1/4" skew. I use that in addition to a tiny (1/4" - don't like it) one and my Sorby 3/4" oval skew. I think the skew is going to become one of my favorites!

Dan
 
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