which buffing wheels?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
glycerine

glycerine

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2009
Messages
3,462
Location
Fayetteville, NC
I'm looking at picking up some buffing wheels. Looks like they are pretty cheap at Home Depot and I figure I can make my own madrel to hold them. But I see that they "have spiral sewn" and "cusion sewn". What's the difference and what do you guys use?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I use the buffing wheels from the HD . The price is ok and the wheels work well . I also bought the 1/2" mandrels for them there as well . At any one time I have about 4 or 5 wheels set up ready to go in my drill press , which has become my dedicated buffing machine .
There are several different kinds of wheels but HD only carries just the 2 . I use the spiral for Tripoli compound and the other for white diamond . The spiral is a stiffer wheel that don't deform as much under use and works well when you want a little more pressure to remove heavier scratches , it also works well for metals and tru stone . The other wheel is softer and conforms to surface better giving a more even coverage and a gentler buffing action for final buffing with white diamond and waxes if you use them , it also works well for clear buffing with no compounds for cleaning the buffed surfaces .
Caswellplatings has allot of information on buffing metals but some of it applies to plastics and finishes http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html# . They also have a number of different compounds that work well for our use .
 
Thanks Butch! So do you just switch out the wheels on your drill press, or do you somehow have 2 or 3 mounted to one mandrel? Do you find that method easy or would you recommend making or buying a mandrel to hold them on my lathe?
I'm really looking into this because I'd like to try my hand at making a pipe. I've been happy with the CA finish on pens, but I'm sure once I get something set up, I will try it on pens as well.
 
Thanks Fred. Now for the important question. Do you put pillows on the ground below the lathe in case your blanks get pulled out of your hands???
 
No. I just buff with the tubes on the mandrel. The MT taper and the mandrel nut are good places you can get a heck of a grip.

I don't use metal bushings when I buff either. I use JohnnyCNC's Eliminator delrin bushings. They are awesome. One set of bushings that work for all the pens!
 
I also buff at about 1400 RPM. Any faster and the pieces are hard to hold. Any slower and you don't get a good shine.

At least that is what works for me. YMMV.
 
glycerine said:
Thanks Butch! So do you just switch out the wheels on your drill press, or do you somehow have 2 or 3 mounted to one mandrel? Do you find that method easy or would you recommend making or buying a mandrel to hold them on my lathe?
I'm really looking into this because I'd like to try my hand at making a pipe. I've been happy with the CA finish on pens, but I'm sure once I get something set up, I will try it on pens as well.
Click to expand...

I had them set up on a homemade mandrel on the lathe but didn't like working on the lathe . I find I have much more control holding them horizontally then I did on the lathe vertically . I lost a few on the lathe and they hit the floor with a sickening smack , I haven't lost a single one since I switched to the DP . I use the wheels one at a time on the DP , it only takes a couple of secs to change them out .
 
Get the Canton Wheels from Caswell. They are not sewn, made of flannel and only costs 2.99 or 3.99 each. I then got a 1/2 all thread rod, drilled a dimple in one end, for the tailstock and I mount it in my 4 jaw. Hold the wheels on with 1/2" nuts and large washers and you have a great buffing system. I have less that $15 in the whole thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom