Which 1/16th Inch Parting Tool Do You Like The Best?

[TonyL]

Hey folks!

For removing threads so that the threaded parts bottom-out which 1/16th parting tool to you like the best? I have a good budget, but I don't have to have the best (or do I?) given its limited use. I do know how to sharpen HSS.

I do not want to make my own. I was thinking of the Sorbey?

Thank you very much.

 

[mark james]

I use the Sorby and have been pleased with it. I typically hone it before and during use.

 

[duncsuss]

... so that the threaded parts bottom-out ...

Are you talking about the threaded tenon of a section where it has to snug up against the open end of the pen barrel?

If so, I suggest doing the modification to the other side of the matching pair, because that last thread where the tenon joins the flange is the weakest part of the section anyway, and I don't want to make it even weaker.

Instead of cutting away there, ream out the opening of the barrel a little, removing the first couple of threads there has resulted in far fewer failures for me. I made my own tool to do this -- it's an old scrap metal file which I annealed in the oven and then ground the spike to make a very small scraper. You can use pretty much anything which is small enough to fit into the opening -- you could even drill it out using a slightly larger drill bit than the nominal size of the tap/die set that you are using at that jont.

 

[TonyL]

Yes. Thank you both.

 

[TonyL]

Instead of cutting away there, ream out the opening of the barrel a little,
removing the first couple of threads there has resulted in far fewer failures
for me. I made my own tool to do this -- it's an old scrap metal file which I
annealed in the oven and then ground the spike to make a very small scraper. You
can use pretty much anything which is small enough to fit into the opening --
you could even drill it out using a slightly larger drill bit than the nominal
size of the tap/die set that you are using at that jont.

So you are saying, to remove the first few female threads of the of the body (where the body accepts the male section threads - correct?

Thank you.

 

[duncsuss]

So you are saying, to remove the first few female threads of the of the body (where the body accepts the male section threads - correct?

Yes, exactly this.

 

[TonyL]

Perfect. Thank you.

 

[Dalecamino]

Agree with Duncan. This can also be achieved with an end mill or a straight router bit. I used the router bit until I bought a set of end mills. Router bits are less expensive. You put it in your scroll chuck. Better control. I use 3/8ths for the lower barrel, and 1/2" for the cap.

 

[TonyL]

Agree with Duncan. This can also be achieved with an end mill or a straight router bit. I used the router bit until I bought a set of end mills. Router bits are less expensive. You put it in your scroll chuck. Better control. I use 3/8ths for the lower barrel, and 1/2" for the cap.

Great idea! Thank you.

 

[TonyL]

Like this?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/bosch-3-8-...MYQCv9_tuLptcW3CUPMlK97pEH4lSVshoCoZcQAvD_BwE

 

[Dalecamino]

Like this?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/bosch-3-8-...MYQCv9_tuLptcW3CUPMlK97pEH4lSVshoCoZcQAvD_BwE

Yes, that will work.

 

[Dalecamino]

Or this style is what I have.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-3-8-in-Carbide-Tipped-Straight-Router-Bit/1073181

Put some lube on them when cutting.

 

[TonyL]

Thank you. I am going to pick up some.