When/how do you put an inlay in?

[angboy]

I have a pen that I want to cut a line into going all the way around the pen, using my parting tool. I then want to fill it, with something like the crushed stone material. I tried doing this once before and when I put the CA glue on it, some of the inlay stuff got outside the indented line and then I couldn't get it off the blank and so it just looked messy. I had waited till I was about ready to sand to do it then.

So I'm wondering how people would suggest you do it? Should I put it in while I still have a fair amount of turning left to do? That's kind of what I'm leaning towards, the logic being that then I'd turn off any part where the inlay leaked out and got on the part of the wood I don't want it on, and hopefully as I turn it the rest of the way down, no more will escape from the indentation. Thoughts or ideas?

 

[Fangar]

Angela,

Usually it is done near the sanding / finishing end of the process. Once you have turned your pen barrel close to its final shape, cut your line with your parting tool, or the edge of your skew (depending on the size you are working for). Fill with your powder or dust as you have mentioned and soak with CA. Once you have it all filled up (It is ok to go over the edges) use the edge of a sharp skew or round nosed scraper to clean the edges up, with your lathe running of course. If done properly, you will have a very tight line. Many times a dull tool will result in the egdes of your CA/Powder material being torn out. Sharp is necessary for this. Sand and finish as usual.

It doesn't hurt to practice this technique a little on a scrap barrel you might have laying around. Once you get it down, you will know when it works best for you.

Fangar

 

[arioux]

Hi Angela,

Just to add to Fangar post, it is a good idea to seal with a coat of ca glue before you start to fill, specially if you are using very fine dust. This will help sanding it off the wood around your inlay area.

Hope this help

Alfred

 

[Nolan]

Angela,

I agree with Fanger and think that Alfreds tip is really good cuz it helps not only helps removing unwanted inlay but also unwanted absorbtion by porous woods. That way you dont get inlay dust absorbed into the wood making it look messy. When reading your post it crossed my mind how fine your inlay material was? I think for small pen stuff that the finer the better. I actually just did a Manzanita with Abalone inlay (it took forever to crush and screen the shell fine enough for my liking. I inlayed it from the start as the blank was so cracked that I didnt think I would be able to drill it and keep it together so I used the inlay to stabilize it so I could drill and turn it. Big waste of material in my opinion and you still have to touch up the inlay anyway.

Nolan

 

[Jim Boyd]

I'll add that sometimes instead of using turning tools to even things out, sand paper is sometimes the cutting tool of choice. An example would be on stone like turquoise.

 

[BRobbins629]

Another technique I have used to get very crisp lines is to cast a blank or even a flat thin layer with the inlay materal, drill a hole for the appropiate tube size, slice/saw/sand off a layer however thick you want the line, then glue it up with balance of the blank material and turn from there. This works with wood or PR resin casts. I used this technique to get the staff line on my music pen. Takes some time, but you can get very crisp lines of any thickness with virtually any inlay material.

<br />

 

[its_virgil]

More than one way to skin a cat. My skinning method is to turn just a tad over finished diameter. Put the inlay powder in and CA with thin. Then finish turning to finished diameter. I have been using embossing powder...used by scrapbookers... It comes in lots of colors and is much cheaper than powdered stone. Be careful powdering abalone shells. I understand the dust is very harmful. Those who do it commercially grind the shell under a water bath of some kind to keep the dust out of the air. I was told this....Only trust the advice is true. I've attached a picture of two inlay rings using embossing powder. The powder can also be mixed with two part epoxy or colored two part epoxy can be used. Good luck.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

<br />

Originally posted by angboy
<br />I have a pen that I want to cut a line into going all the way around the pen, using my parting tool. I then want to fill it, with something like the crushed stone material. I tried doing this once before and when I put the CA glue on it, some of the inlay stuff got outside the indented line and then I couldn't get it off the blank and so it just looked messy. I had waited till I was about ready to sand to do it then.

So I'm wondering how people would suggest you do it? Should I put it in while I still have a fair amount of turning left to do? That's kind of what I'm leaning towards, the logic being that then I'd turn off any part where the inlay leaked out and got on the part of the wood I don't want it on, and hopefully as I turn it the rest of the way down, no more will escape from the indentation. Thoughts or ideas?

 

[wood-of-1kind]

I like to add fine coloured sand as a decorative touch to some of my pens. I cut a groove oversized and carefully add the sand with a slurry of CA as the blank sits stationary on the mandrel. Place a clean sheet below the mandrel in order to recycle the fallen sand (or other material). Allow to dry for about an hour and final cut with a skew to the desired size. Apply final coating of CA that acts as a sealer coat. Allow to dry once again and finally sand to desired lustre.

<br />

<br />