What's so special about the Beale Buffing System??

[ramaroodle]

Am I missing something? Can't I use my cheapie HF wheels on a threaded shaft in a Jacobs chuck with 2 or 3 wheels on it?? Seems like EEE (or whatever the equivalent color rouge is) on one, plastic polish (or rouge) on one and clean on the third accomplishes the same thing?? I turn 99% of my pens with GluBoost or a brand of CA.

 

[ramaroodle]

Actually, the more I think about it I bet I wouldn't be able to tell the difference using a buffing system or my same old EEE and plastic polish on the mandrel with a paper towel. Using GluBoost I've stopped using micro mesh and after a few seconds with some .0000 steel wool I go straight to EEE then plastic polish. I'll see.

 

[randyrls]

I have both, but the Beal wheels are much more robust and higher quality than the HF wheels. The HF wheels are much thinner than the Beal. You get what you pay for.

 

[ramaroodle]

Thanks. I assumed that was the case. I'm just wondering about the end results. There's got to be a source for better than HF quality wheels if that is the only difference vs spending $100 or why not just buy the Beale wheels? Not that the $ is the issue. I'm just skeptical about any difference in the end results.

 

[Sylvanite]

Anything that spins the buffs at the appropriate rpm will work. I used to use a PSI buffing mandrel (a cheap knock-off of the Beall), but later switched to 3 Harbor Freight bench buffers so I wouldn't have to change buffs between compounds. I buy my buffs and buffing compounds from Caswell Plating.

I hope that helps,
Eric

 

[DrD]

When I did wheel buffing , especially with acrylics, it is easy to over buff and you get a weird result - at least I did. I haven't found any good reason to go back to buffing wheels.

 

[ramaroodle]

Yeah. That's why I'm gonna try it without spending any real money. Can't be all that high tech. It's just spinning fabric.

 

[JimB]

Each Bealle buffing wheel is a different blend of fabrics to work best with the specific compound or wax. That is why they come marked as to which buff is for which compound.

i bought just the buffs from CSUSA since I already had the compounds from when I used the HF wheels. I also made my own spindle extension for the buffs to go on. I prefer to just mount one buff at a time so I don't cross contaminate compounds between the buffing wheels.

 

[ramaroodle]

i bought just the buffs from CSUSA since I already had the compounds from when I used the HF wheels. I also made my own spindle extension for the buffs to go on. I prefer to just mount one buff at a time so I don't cross contaminate compounds between the buffing wheels.

Thanks for the info. My question is, do you see any appreciable difference between them and the HF wheels?

 

[JimB]

Thanks for the info. My question is, do you see any appreciable difference between them and the HF wheels?

I can't really do a fair comparison because I didn't like using the HF buffs and therefore only buffed a few items. The HF buffs are to narrow and I was primarily trying to buff larger items.

 

[SteveG]

Anything that spins the buffs at the appropriate rpm will work. I used to use a PSI buffing mandrel (a cheap knock-off of the Beall), but later switched to 3 Harbor Freight bench buffers so I wouldn't have to change buffs between compounds. I buy my buffs and buffing compounds from Caswell Plating.

I hope that helps,
Eric

Caswell is a speciality company dealing with things related to buffing and plating. They offer a wide selection and great quality, and have been recommended here at IAP by those with buffing related experience in their jobs. Some things I will try to save money on, and others, such as tools and such, I will go for the quality. If you are shopping for buffing items, at least visit the site.

 

[dogcatcher]

I had been using various buffing systems for years before Beall came out with his system for woodturners. His system is worth it, better quality wheels and good quality compounds. All compounds are not created equal. The Harbor Freight are the Harbor Fright of compounds. The grit is all over the place, the wheels, are okay, but not what I would call top quality.

I used to buy my wheels and compounds from a jewelry makers supply house and Eastwood, but found Caswell several years ago, now they are my preferred place for buffing supplies. In y opinion Beall is equal in quality, but does not have the wide range that I used. I had dozens of wheels, one for each compound, one set for silver, another for steel and another set for wood. Big wheels, small wheels, and buffing mops. I still use the Beall compounds, but also have a few others from Caswell.

 

[TonyL]

I used caswell compounds the n switched to these: https://www.menzerna.com/products/solid-compounds/

I built my own because I wanted better buffs and all one axis. I don't like changing things. I also wanted two compounds finer than white diamond.

 

[SmokeGSU]

Actually, the more I think about it I bet I wouldn't be able to tell the difference using a buffing system or my same old EEE and plastic polish on the mandrel with a paper towel. Using GluBoost I've stopped using micro mesh and after a few seconds with some .0000 steel wool I go straight to EEE then plastic polish. I'll see.

I really enjoy just how quickly GluBoost becomes smooth and polished! I use the Zona plastic polishing paper. It's only 6 different grits, but ten-seconds wet-sanding with each one of them and I've got a super smooth and polished finish! The micro-mesh pads just can't compare.