What tooling for my new 12x36 metal lathe

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alexkuzn

alexkuzn

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Nov 10, 2008
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My 12x36 metalworking lathe should arrive soon.

What tooling, inserts etc. should I get for it?

My lathe have BXA tool post and holders like on this picture:



http://www.penturners.org/forum/[IM...bums/j305/alexkuzn/qctp300-383x2911.jpg[/IMG]
qctp300-383x2911.jpg
 
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Well you can send it to me and i will test it for you and let you know what other pieces are need and i can test them to. I should take about 4-10 years.
 
you will find that the carbide sets that you can index will perform most of your work. You should buy 5or 6 high speed tool steel blanks to custom grind the odd cutter you will need. A boring bar to fit that particular holder. A 6in machinist ruler, a dial caliper if you dont already have one. you may find a magnetic base with a dial indicater useful. A couple of small brushes. Lubricating coolant for cutting steel, etc. One of those lights you can adjust to see things with. MIke
 
mredburn said:
you will find that the carbide sets that you can index will perform most of your work. You should buy 5or 6 high speed tool steel blanks to custom grind the odd cutter you will need. A boring bar to fit that particular holder. A 6in machinist ruler, a dial caliper if you dont already have one. you may find a magnetic base with a dial indicater useful. A couple of small brushes. Lubricating coolant for cutting steel, etc. One of those lights you can adjust to see things with. MIke
Click to expand...

I have most of these things already.
What I am trying to find out is more specific information on what insert types you guys find more useful for pen work.
As you know there about a gazillion(scientific term) insert types.

I'll really appreciate if someone will share his experience with specific insert types etc...
 
Actually for threading I prefer Momax Cobalt lathe bits, you can grind your thread cutting bit to 60 degrees then grind down the sides so the actual cutting end of the bit is about 3/32 wide, this will allow you to get closer to your chuck, with less material hanging out, Also I would spring for a set of Hardinge C5 collets and a collet closer if they are available for your headstock. The cheap 5 piece set of indexable cutting tools are OK but I still use Cobalt for nearly everything, and I have a lot of carbide and CBN tooling. Here is a link to the sets that are pretty reasonable, they aren't Valenite or Kenametal quality, but they aren't near that price either http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=186&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=250-1400, Enco has some great prices, they also have some nice boring bar sets, you should also grab a Knurling tool, you'll find most of your cutting will probably require AR series tools, and look for some good parting tools, Stay with HSS ,carbide insert parting tools are real expensive.
 
I grind most of my cutters from HS or cobalt steel blanks. Once you get the hang of it they are easy to do and I can get very smooth cuts. Enco has them for less than $1 each. While the inserts are nice and many use them, I often want a special cut for something such as a specific width or shaped groove so they are handy to have around. A boring set also comes in very handy. I rarely use a parting tool. Just cut it on the band saw and make a facing cut - a lot simpler.
 
I am not good at grinding tools. I like pre-grinded inserts. I just figured it out that there is different types of cutters depending on the types of threads you want to cut. If you are going to use indexible cutters and cut threads, you might think about what type of threads you will want to cut. But the tool from a company that has lots of different cutters available for that tool, because there is a bazillion different tooling companies with tons of different configurations of bits. I figured that out after the fact, so now I am spending my money twice.
 
A 55 degree insert will face and do outside turning. Get a common tool size like dnmg432 for those and there are more cheap inserts to choose from. Also good to have is an 80 degree insert inside boring bar. You might look to one that can turn inside a 3/8" diameter to keep it as large as practical for stiffness, yet small enough to get in there. Also needed are a good cutoff and a 60 degree V shaped insert threading tool.

For the tailstock, get a good hand tightening chuck that fits in the Morse Taper. You will need centerdrills and get a good full set of cobalt drills.

With that setup, you will be able to do most anything you will need to do.
 
Bruce,

thank you for your advise.
What do you conciser a good drill hand tightening(keyless) drill chuck? I already have a cheap $30 one I use on my wood lathe. I really doubt that it is good enough for metalworking.
 
My absolute best advice is to get you a SHARP pair of tweezers and one of those magnifying headgears. I'm sure you've had a wooden splinter but that's NOTHING compared to the little metal ones you'll get. They're so small that you won't even know you have one, until you rub it against something, and then....!@$#%%&*&**!!!:wink::biggrin:
 
Rick, I thought that's what calipers are for! They're ground accurate enough to work like tweezers, and you get the benefit of being able to measure the splinter for bragging rights.

I have a couple keyless chucks that I got from a guy that imports them and resells them through WoodCraft. The brand on them is Harvest. I think they were around the same price, and they work fine on the metal cutting lathe too.
 
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