What steps are you using for lacquer buffing

[Firefyter-emt]

So, what are you all using? I have been using the Deft spray gloss and a 7 day dry time. I am curious not only about how many coats you all are spraying, but what buffing procedures you find the best? I have been doing 5 coats and wet sanding from 1500 to 2000 and buffing with a fine synthetic auto buffing compound, however I went thru a blank today. It was just a tiny bit, but enough to make me mad. I have 7 blanks that will be ready one a day all week, So give me your tips.. Thanks!

 

[challagan]

I have just started using spray lacquer myself. My first two have turned out great. I sprayed at least 5 light coats, maybe 6 or 7 on one of them. I started with the 2400 MM and just lightly sanded in the lowest speed. You only need to run it across lightly and you don't want to build up heat. I went all they way thru the grits but once you get to the 3000 grits you really are just polishing and not sanding and only need to run it back and forth a couple times.

My biggest problem is the mess on my mandrells. I am trying to find a way to do it without spraying them on the mandrell and coating the bushings.

Hope this helps a bit from one lacquer newbie to another. Oh I don't buff, I just use TSW and it is the perfect top coat for the lacquer. I have been using a Cigar pen that I lacquered and then TSW'd as my own pen at work. Still great looking and every once in a while I use a soft cloth I have and polish it up.

corey

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Cleaning is the easy part, pick up a can of aceatone (sp?) I have a 35mm film canster I drop the bushings & brass nut in after I remove them. A quick wipe on the mandral will easily remove the rest.

I guess I really have to break down & buy myself some MM, Eh?

 

[RogerGarrett]

I've posted about lacquer before, but I'll share again.

I keep reading about using aerosol Deft as a way to lacquer pens. The problem with using aerosol is that you must use so many coats to get a good and complete coating. The transfer rate is so low with this approach, it is a real time consuming ordeal.

I recommend that you use a 2 horse compressor and cheap spray gun ($28 gun at Menards or Home Depot will do) and run it at 40 psi with pre-catylized lacquer. You use less lacquer and the transfer rate is high enough that you can do it in two coats with a sponge sand between coats (30 minute dry time before sanding). I use peg boards with the pens pieces sitting upright. I reverse them for the second coat - to avoid a "lip" of lacquer at the bottom. I don't have to buff or add any polish or TSW with two coats of lacquer. The first coat seals the pores and wood, the second coat gives a beautiful gloss finish........two coats is lots of protection - especially with a 10 day cure period.

For added durability and only one coat of lacquer, I use CA glue first - to seal the pores and stabilize/harden the wood before lacquer. In the case of dense woods such as ebony, rosewood, and others - I only use one coat of thin CA and then one coat of lacquer - hard, glossy finish. No buffing required. And you can do this without MM.

Just recently I purchased some MM and I am now doing a CA finish exclusively on most pens. I'm amazed at the quality of shine before I use any plastic polish on the CA. Truly wonderful stuff that MM.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[Draken]

I move my blanks to a 3 foot section of 1/4" allthread which I've punched through the sides of a cardboard box. The box becomes my spray booth, and I'm able to rotate the blanks using the allthread which pokes out of the sides of the box. I apply many light coats, using a 28 gallon air compressor set about 25-30 PSI on the regulator. I use the cheap $5 (on sale) air brush from HF. For really open woods, I'll sand it half way through my light coats to even out the finish a bit. I sand with MM then buff with TSW with the blanks back on the lathe after letting the lacquer cure for at least 7 days. So far, this has worked well. I've just purchased a buffing mandrel and wheel, so I'll soon try some white diamond before TSW to see what that does.

Cheers,
Draken

 

[RogerGarrett]

I thought I would post for you a picture of two items. The pen pictured was finished with CA - one coat of thick and one coat of thin with MM on the final coat. I polished it out with Mylands - but it really didn't need it.

The contrabass reed case behind it was finished entirely in lacquer. Two coats with a sponge sand between.

Both the pen and the reed case were made from the same chunk of cocobolo.

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[Firefyter-emt]

I have been keeping an eye open for a jaming / touch-up gun (bigger than a airbrush, smaller than a large gun) I come from the auto body industury and I am an ASE certified auto painter, so I know my way around paint. One of my biggest down sides to the CA finish, IMHO, is re-sale. My main goal is resale.. In the eyes of a consumer, unless you "hide" the fact that the finish is crazy glue, lacquer alone will win out almost every time.. People relate a lacquar finish to high end quaility.. I can just see the look when you tell them it is crazy glue on the pen they are dropping a good chunk of cash on.. []

 

[Johnathan]

Beautiful work Rodger.

When using Lacquer I would always give one more day to the drying process than you think it needs just in safe.