Bushings are available for the "A" mandrel for the Berea kits that use the "B" mandrel.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Thanks for that info Don - I found them at Beartooth Woods. I had no idea they were available. And thanks for many hours of reading I've spent reading your pearls of wisdom over the years too
Look in the library at the bushing chart. That will give you a better idea of the finished size than the drill size. Hope that helps.
Thanks Woodkiller! I have spent a couple hours now reading those charts. Those spreadsheets are exactly what I needed to help compare the different pen kit sizes. Another thing I never knew about before today. I'm sure learning a lot of new stuff today.
I have used the Full Sized gent from Timberbits quite successfully.
Thanks Crash! That is one kit that I'm taking a look at, but probably from CSUSA. Is there a difference?
The Gents (Gentlemen's) pen is likely the lowest price of the full size rollerballs. The Statesman is the same size as the Gents. PSI has a Majestic that is about the same size. The Emperor is about the same size as well, but the lower barrel does not get slimmer like the Gents. etc., so it may be, overall, the largest (fattest) lower barrel. It's been a long time since I've turned a Churchill, but I think it is comparable to the Gents as well.
Mike
Thanks for your input Mike, I really appreciate that! Those were all on my list except for the Emporer, and after finding them at Exotic Blanks, I know why they are not on my list (yet). A little too much quality than I'm ready for at this time. Hopefully someday I'll be ready to spend that much for a pen kit, just not right now.
I don't understand how you can make a closed end blank on a mandrel, A or B!
It took me a while to figure it out Dale, but I've been using an adjustable mandrel and barrel trimming sleeves to make closed end pens. The sleeves I use are like these
Barrel trimming Sleeves for Apollo Infinity Kits at Penn State Industries and I just use masking tape on both sides of the sleeve to position it on the end of the adjustable mandrel.
I still use the tailstock to hold the blank tight until I get the barrel turned and finished except for a tiny piece that has to be cut off the tip of the closed end. As long as you apply pressure on the tip of the closed end (towards the headstock), the barrel can be sanded and finished after parting off that last tiny piece.
It takes a fairly long piece of timber for the closed end barrel because it has to extend a ways past the brass tube and you also have to part off enough of the blank to loose the dimple made by the tailstock.