What is the thinnest resin with longest working time ???

[Monty]

I'm asking because I have some , IIRC, oak burl that I have had for some time and it now appears somewhat "spongy" looking. I'm afraid that if I just try stabilizing it with Cactus Juice, the juice will not fill any voids sufficiently and I'd like any voids to be filled with color. I'm skeptical that the 12 minute working time of Alumilite Clear Slow will be sufficient to pull a good vacuum and then have enough time for the resin to fill the voids. Has anyone tried something like this before?

 

[Kenny Durrant]

If the voids go to the outside, so the resin will have a way to travel, I'd use the Clear Slow and pressure. I wouldn't use vacuum. If you have time stabilize first then cast. Like the worthless wood blanks.

 

[jrista]

If the voids go to the outside, so the resin will have a way to travel, I'd use the Clear Slow and pressure. I wouldn't use vacuum. If you have time stabilize first then cast. Like the worthless wood blanks.

If the wood overall is kind of "spongy" though...wouldn't casting in even thin resin, with pressure, guarantee you trap air inside the wood? That would come out during turning then, and potentially cause problems? Even the clear slow stuff is only 12 minutes...even under 60psi, I have a hard time believing that would deeply penetrate the burl.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

That's why I was asking about the voids. If there's a path the let the resin penetrate it will work. I've cast alligator jawbone and the Clear Slow filled all the voids. With the worthless wood it should fill the cracks and holes unless there's a pocket inside the wood.

 

[Monty]

I'll try to get some close up pictures and post them tomorrow so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

[jttheclockman]

I am going to assume you are trying to stabilize it. So again I am making assumptions that epoxy resin is not what you want to use. Never used it under a vac but it does have a long open time and is very thin. That is why it is my go to resin for casting things like watch parts. I know it will not shrink and adhere to everything. Under pressure it has plenty time to get bubbles out. Wood hardener such as Miwax or one of the many others might work.

 

[MRDucks2]

Sent you a PM. I tried this once and it didn't go so well but would try it a little differently next time.

 

[jrista]

I'm asking because I have some , IIRC, oak burl that I have had for some time and it now appears somewhat "spongy" looking. I'm afraid that if I just try stabilizing it with Cactus Juice, the juice will not fill any voids sufficiently and I'd like any voids to be filled with color. I'm skeptical that the 12 minute working time of Alumilite Clear Slow will be sufficient to pull a good vacuum and then have enough time for the resin to fill the voids. Has anyone tried something like this before?

A picture or few would certainly help... Regarding voids and filling them with color. If you do a round of stabilization with cactus juice in vacuum, then let any outer excess drain before you cook the blanks, and maybe trim off any bits of resin that you don't want. Could you then cast in Alumilite to fill any largish voids with colored resin under pressure?

I've never done this, but if the wood is what I suspect (the whole spongy description ), I wonder if the relatively short open time with something like Alumilite would really allow any real penetration into any part of the wood OTHER than largish voids... That might end up being problematic later on...

On the other hand...have you considered maybe casting in Alumilite to fill in any larger voids, then maybe sand down the casting just to the point where you expose the burl on the four sides, then stabilize in cactus juice? Not sure if that would work once you get to the curing stage...can cured Alumilite handle ~200 degrees temp?

 

[Monty]

Here are a few pictures of what I'm talking about. When you look at the one on the sideview you can see the very small pores that I'm talking about. I'm thinking I'll stabilize with cactus juice letting it drain well before I put it under heat and I won't wrap it. I'll then embed with alumilite slow and we'll see what happens.

 

[Gary Beasley]

As small as a pen blank is soaking it in thin CA would be pretty effective. It will also fill tiny voids as it sets up. Ive done blanks that were falling apart from rot and managed to make a decent pen from it. Once the CA cures the alumilite can be used for larger voids.

Zombie cigar pen

Heres one for Halloween. A spalted sweetgum blank I was cutting out had really good colors and figure but was really punky in the center. In fact it fell apart when I picked it up from the saw table. I gently carried it over to my lathe where I got out the thin CA, put the two ends back together...

www.penturners.org

 

[jrista]

Here are a few pictures of what I'm talking about. When you look at the one on the sideview you can see the very small pores that I'm talking about. I'm thinking I'll stabilize with cactus juice letting it drain well before I put it under heat and I won't wrap it. I'll then embed with alumilite slow and we'll see what happens.

I would clear out the pulp from those worm tracks before you stabilize. That stuff is just...well, grub crap basically. It is super punky stuff, and crumbles at the slightest tough. Its probably not worth saving Would give you more voids to fill with nice color, too.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

I'll second what Jrista said. Take a pick and wire brush and clean all the loose debris. Cut it into blanks that will fit in your mold but a little oversized so you can trim if they warp. Then I'd stabilize and heat without wrapping in foil. Put the cured blanks in your mold and warm together to be certain all the moisture is removed. Since your in Houston the humidity alone will cause problems. When your resin is ready remove the warmed mold and blanks and pour. Try not to mix in excessive air when stirring and start by pouring the resin only at one end. That will help in letting air escape instead of trapping it. You'll also need to find a way to keep the blanks from floating when the resin is added. Tape or a rubber band will work but I use museum gell. That serves two purposes. It keeps the wood from floating and it gives a small space on the bottom for the resin to flow across. You may already know this but I thought I'd add my process just in case. Good Luck.