What is "light machine oil"?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
A

angboy

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2005
Messages
2,136
Location
North Las Vegas, NV
I have a terrible squeal in my DP and I've neglected it horribly. So I dug out the manual, which says that once a week[:0][:0][:0], apparently not meaning once a set of 75 or so weeks, you should put"light machine oil" somewhere in the top. So what exactly is "light machine oil"? I asked at WallyWorld and they had no idea what I was talking about. I'm hoping that something I already have around my shop maybe will fit the bill? Out of fear of ridicule, I won't say what various liquid substances in containers around my shop were considered for using as light machine oil [:o)](no, CA was NOT one of them!).
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
DSA: I think 3 in 1 oil should do just fine and is something you are likely to be familiar with. And it is handy for lots of things around the house. (massages??[:D])

Not as likely a problem; but the belts can also squeal. The solution for that is belt dressing from the auto parts store......absolutely do not get oil on the belts.
 
Ang, it would be nice if oil was oil, but this isn't really the case. The "light" in light machine oil means that the oil typically has a lower viscosity than other oils. Sewing machine oil, air tool oil and maybe even good old Marvel Mystery Oil would do the trick (as would 3-in-1 that Randy mentioned).
 
Hmmmmm light machine oil......

I would think the oil can would be real easy to pick up do to oil being very light.[:D][:D][:D]

Sorry just couldn't resist...

Yep use Marvel Mystery Oil. it works for air tools to anything else that needs oil.
 
Originally posted by angboy
<br />I have a terrible squeal in my DP and I've neglected it horribly. So I dug out the manual, which says that .....you should put"light machine oil" somewhere in the top. So what exactly is "light machine oil"?
Click to expand...
OK Ang ..... your first problem has been solved. Now, the next question is ... how do you find the exact location of "somewhere in the top"? [;)]
 
Viscocity is sometimes shown by a number. The lower the number the lighter the oil(lower thickness). A 10 weight oil is very light, a 90 weight oil is very thick. Todays engine oils have complex weightings like 5W-30, but that is still quite light.
I guess where I'm going with this is to tell you you should be able to use a few drops of motor oil for the job and save the cost of those expensive little cans. I have kept an oil can of motor oil around the shop for years and use it for jobs like this. I also cut it with some paint thinner to create honing oil for the oil stone.
Brad Harding
 
Thanks for the input everyone. Now I just have to look for these oils that I haven't heard of- 3-in-1, Marvel mystery oil... hhmmmm, where does one buy those? They probably had it right at Walmart where I was looking!

Randy, good multi-use for the oil[:D], it's always nice to not have to buy something else!

And Al, luckily the manual has pictures for me, so hopefully I can handle that part. But if I have trouble, I have managed to finish my recruitment for a surrogate husband in my new location. I've found one, so now I have someone to charm into doing it for me. [:X][:X]
 
Angboy said: "Now I just have to look for these oils that I haven't heard of- 3-in-1, Marvel mystery oil... hhmmmm, where does one buy those? "
Both of those products have been on the market for nearly a century. Yes, they probably were right at hand, you just didn't know they woudl work. I'm sure WD-40 would work also.
But, when I need something like that I usually use a gun oil. There are many fine brands on the market but I favor Break Free because of it's teflon base. The teflon remains even after the oil is worn off. Only drops are needed.
 
Ang,
Marvels Mystery is super stuff!! Not only do I use it around the shop for all the reasons previously stated but a little in my airplane keeps the fuel tanks healthy and helps out with upper cylinder lube as 100LL is getting even less lead in it now days.

Nolan
 
"Light machine oil" is clearly oil you put on a lamp (the only light emitting machine in my shop), or oil for your machines that weigh under 5 pounds, your LIGHT machines.

GEEEEEEZZZZEEE, these girls just don't know nothin teknikal!!!![}:)][}:)][}:)]
(Wait til Cav sees that one!)
 
You've already had many good answers, but to chime in with specifics... So, I'm a newbie here but Bernina sewing machine repair is another sideline of mine.

Sewing machine oil, specifically Bernina sewing machine oil, is Mobil Velocite 10, high speed spindle oil and great for this instance. See any Bernina sewing machine dealer. We have guys come in all the time and sheepishly ask for a $3.99 oiler so they can use it on shop machine parts.

WD40 is a good solvent and bad lubricant. It will cause things to freeze pretty quickly if not chased with light machine oil. I've seen too many sewing machines locked up tite because hubby "serviced" the machine with WD40 thinking it was light oil.
 
Originally posted by rixstix
<br />You've already had many good answers, but to chime in with specifics... So, I'm a newbie here but Bernina sewing machine repair is another sideline of mine.

Sewing machine oil, specifically Bernina sewing machine oil, is Mobil Velocite 10, high speed spindle oil and great for this instance. See any Bernina sewing machine dealer. We have guys come in all the time and sheepishly ask for a $3.99 oiler so they can use it on shop machine parts.

WD40 is a good solvent and bad lubricant. It will cause things to freeze pretty quickly if not chased with light machine oil. I've seen too many sewing machines locked up tite because hubby "serviced" the machine with WD40 thinking it was light oil.
Click to expand...

Rick, I can't say what you saw with the sewing machines. But the the rest of the comments are pure nonsense. I, and millions of other people have used it for 'fine' machine work for decades. It is a lubricant, as a light oil it can loosen and remove some old dirt and whatever. As far as 'freezing' things. The many-many millions of people who use it for guns will tell you differently.
I have met the inventor and learned first hand that it is a lubricant, how and why, it was developed. Do some Googling, you will learn a lot.
 
Originally posted by bradh
<br />.....I guess where I'm going with this is to tell you you should be able to use a few drops of motor oil for the job and save the cost of those expensive little cans. I have kept an oil can of motor oil around the shop for years and use it for jobs like this. I also cut it with some paint thinner to create honing oil for the oil stone.
Click to expand...

I totally agree with Brad's thinking; however........ If you go out and buy a can of motor oil or Marvel oil, the smallest size you will find will be one quart and you will also have to spend 5 or 6 dollars for a dispenser for the oil as well. Since 99% of all lube jobs require about 3 drops of oil, a full quart of oil will last most normal people about 200 years. That being the case, I don't mind spending a little higher price per ounce for a 4 oz. container of 3 in 1 oil that already comes in a handy dispenser with a long narrow tip to get into tight places.
 
Not me, Frank. The last time I used WD-40 on one of my guns (about 20 years ago) I found it rusting in the cabinet about two weeks later. I started using a silicone based oil and haven't looked back. Not trying to start an argument, just stating my experience. If it works for you, you're more fortunate than I.[;)]
 
Originally posted by angboy
<br />Thanks for the input everyone. Now I just have to look for these oils that I haven't heard of- 3-in-1, Marvel mystery oil... hhmmmm, where does one buy those? They probably had it right at Walmart where I was looking!
Click to expand...

DSA: I don't know about Wal-Mart; but I get my 3 in 1 oil at Home Depot. I imagine most auto parts stores will carry it along with motor oil and Marvel oil.
 
I'm with Billy on this one. I've heard lots of horror stories about rusting firearms after having a coat of WD-40. I don't have any first hand experience with the problem. Have always used Hoppe's on mine and never had any rust!!
 
Rick, I can't say what you saw with the sewing machines. But the the rest of the comments are pure nonsense [:)][:D][;)].

I, and millions of other people have used it for 'fine' machine work for decades. It is a lubricant, as a light oil it can loosen and remove some old dirt and whatever. As far as 'freezing' things. The many-many millions of people who use it for guns will tell you differently.
I have met the inventor and learned first hand that it is a lubricant, how and why, it was developed. Do some Googling, you will learn a lot.
Click to expand...

Frank,

I inserted the "smilies" that I'm sure you meant to include...
[:)][:)]

let's disgree agreeably shall we? WD-40 is my favorite solvent and 3-in-1 my handy quick oiler...
 
I wouldn't use WD40 for bearings or anything that runs continuously, since the film thickness is too thin to protect in these cases. It works for sliding parts and hinges that receive intermittent use.

Paul in AR
 
Frank,
We will have to agree to disagree about the lubrication qualities of WD40. Your's may be different, but the tolerances in my firearms are not near as tight as the tolerances in my spindles. [:)][:D][;)]

As far as all other comments regarding Mobil Velocite 10 being nonsense, that product was specifically formulated for high speed spindles.
 
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />I'm with Billy on this one. I've heard lots of horror stories about rusting firearms after having a coat of WD-40. I don't have any first hand experience with the problem. Have always used Hoppe's on mine and never had any rust!!
Click to expand...

As far as a rust preventative is concerned, WD-40 is not a wise choice for long term protection. Short term (e.g. field to home for guns) it is OK. It's primary usefullness is as a light, penetrating lubricant. And it does that job extremly well. For whatever reason, there are a lot of 'anti-WD-40 myths out there and people seem to want to believe anything negative about the product that is put out there. E-mailing this nonsense seems to even give the nonsense more credibility.
 
Originally posted by Rifleman1776
[br}As far as a rust preventative is concerned, WD-40 is not a wise choice for long term protection. Short term (e.g. field to home for guns) it is OK. It's primary usefullness is as a light, penetrating lubricant. And it does that job extremly well. For whatever reason, there are a lot of 'anti-WD-40 myths out there and people seem to want to believe anything negative about the product that is put out there. E-mailing this nonsense seems to even give the nonsense more credibility.
Click to expand...

What myths are you talking about, Frank? You, yourself, seem to be agreeing with Billy that WD-40 could be a problem so I am confused?
 
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />
Originally posted by Rifleman1776
[br}As far as a rust preventative is concerned, WD-40 is not a wise choice for long term protection. Short term (e.g. field to home for guns) it is OK. It's primary usefullness is as a light, penetrating lubricant. And it does that job extremly well. For whatever reason, there are a lot of 'anti-WD-40 myths out there and people seem to want to believe anything negative about the product that is put out there. E-mailing this nonsense seems to even give the nonsense more credibility.
Click to expand...

What myths are you talking about, Frank? You, yourself, seem to be agreeing with Billy that WD-40 could be a problem so I am confused?
Click to expand...

Not a problem I am agreeing with, just a misuse.
Here, and other forums there are myths that WD-40: is not a lubricant; is really a solvent; is really only a water displacer; leaves a gunky films; is really a long term rust preventative; best use is for wart removal/birth control/baiting (or attracting) space aliens, and on and on. Somewhere on Snopes there is a long list of these.
What WD-40 reall IS: is a light duty, moisture displacing penetrating lubricant. For it's intended purpose, it does it's job very well. For some other things, like short term rust prevention, it is quite good also.
 
OK, got it!!

Just visited the www.wd40.com web site and they have a list of 2,000 things that WD-40 can be used for. There are a lot of interesting ideas.

I sort of scanned the list rather than looking at it in detail so I may have missed a few; but only found one item that is highly questionable. I intend to email the manufacturer for more detail. They said you could use WD-40 to lubricate boat trailer wheel bearings?? I would be glad to try it on "THEIR" trailer; but darn sure wouldn't lubricate the bearings on my trailer and then attempt to drive it cross country. What do you think??
 
The BEST use I have ever found was to leave it on the shelf in the store, if it was in my house the best use was to take up space in the trash can, NO I have never had any respect or use for WD-40. Just my opinion only!!!
 
Randy,
If you go to the last page of that long list you will see a disclaimer. It say that the items on this list was submitted by consumers and DOES NOT consitute suggested uses by the manufacturer. They caution the user to use common sense and read directions.

Paul in AR
 
Thanks, Paul. Not only was the disclaimer posted at the end of the list, it was printed at the top of the page as well. As I mentioned, I didn't study the list in detail so just I missed it. [B)]

I have to say that I am disappointed in the WD-40 company for posting something like that and find it to be very irresponsible to post uses that are clearly of questionable validity.[:(!] I wonder if they would print a suggestion if I told them I added it to my morning coffee or used it in place of contact lens solution?

I also wonder if that disclaimer would hold up court.

BTW, i am still going to contact the company; but now my comments will take a different tack!![:(!]
 
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />"Light machine oil" is clearly oil you put on a lamp (the only light emitting machine in my shop), or oil for your machines that weigh under 5 pounds, your LIGHT machines.

GEEEEEEZZZZEEE, these girls just don't know nothin teknikal!!!![}:)][}:)][}:)]
(Wait til Cav sees that one!)
Click to expand...

Now I have something to blame it on... it's those darn chromosones[:X][:X] that make it hard for me to know certain things or understand certain things that come as second nature to males.

Well I did get the DP lubricated today, did it all by myself[^]! Got the top off, got the lube in, got the top back on, and started it back up... Didn't even have to use a surrogate[^]!

But there is still a squeal, so now I'll have to try the belt dressing plan...
 
I use 3 in 1 oil Hopes gun oil and anything like that a do IMO folks over think all this stuf IMO anyway .. ...I oil all my stuf up every spring IF I think of it :O) so did my dad and all his stuf he left me is stil working fine :O) ....I bought aa Hitachi Drillpress last spring I duno were to oil this thing gona have to look around :O) [:D]

pipes
 
Originally posted by angboy
<br />.....But there is still a squeal, so now I'll have to try the belt dressing plan...
Click to expand...
DSA: Before you run out and buy a container of belt dressing try one other thing. Loosen/remove the belts from the drill press and then turn on the motor. Does the noise go away?? If not, the problem could be with the bearings in the motor. Not something that should happen unless it is old and well used; but stranger things have happened??
 
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />
Originally posted by angboy
<br />.....But there is still a squeal, so now I'll have to try the belt dressing plan...
Click to expand...
DSA: Before you run out and buy a container of belt dressing try one other thing. Loosen/remove the belts from the drill press and then turn on the motor. Does the noise go away?? If not, the problem could be with the bearings in the motor. Not something that should happen unless it is old and well used; but stranger things have happened??
Click to expand...

You're starting to get "teknikal" on me again. Remove the belts? That sounds really complicated![:0] Unless belt dressing is really expensive, would it hurt to put some on even if that's not the problem? Because my thought is it'd be easier to buy the belt dressing and put it on and then if the noise is still there, call for major help with bearings! That might require finding a specialist surrogate! Of course, whether I'm going to take the belts off, dress them, or even just fluff them up, I do have to find them first...[:o)]
 
Originally posted by angboy
<br />.....Remove the belts? That sounds really complicated.....
Click to expand...

Angela: Maybe it is?? I was thinking about the simple little DPes that require the belts to be moved to different pulleys to change speed. Do you by chance have a variable speed DP with a Reeves drive like you have on your lathe? If so forget what I said before 'cause removing the belt is a little more involved and just get some belt dressing. If you have the manual version, just loosen the adjusting screw, loosen the belt/belts like you were going to change speed and remove the belt rather than just shifting its position on the pulley.
 
Originally posted by Randy_
<br />
Originally posted by angboy
<br />.....Remove the belts? That sounds really complicated.....
Click to expand...

Angela: Maybe it is?? I was thinking about the simple little DPes that require the belts to be moved to different pulleys to change speed. Do you by chance have a variable speed DP with a Reeves drive like you have on your lathe? If so forget what I said before 'cause removing the belt is a little more involved and just get some belt dressing. If you have the manual version, just loosen the adjusting screw, loosen the belt/belts like you were going to change speed and remove the belt rather than just shifting its position on the pulley.
Click to expand...

Yes, mine is a variable speed. I didn't know it when I got it, just listened to dad's advice to get a variable speed. But I've discovered that I like to be able to vary the drilling speed and not just have one speed (which would probably mean fast only, if a man invented it![:D]). With some of the wood I like (dymondwood comes to mind), the softer touch or slower speed seems much less likely for me to end up having a blow out. And if I had to stop and do all that repositioning to change speeds, I'd get pretty frustrated!

But now that we clarified that, I think I will try the belt dressing route, and see how it sounds once it's properly [?]"dressed"[?]?
 
Originally posted by n4631x
<br />Ang,
Marvels Mystery is super stuff!! Not only do I use it around the shop for all the reasons previously stated but a little in my airplane keeps the fuel tanks healthy and helps out with upper cylinder lube as 100LL is getting even less lead in it now days.

Nolan
Click to expand...

Nolan, As an A&P I must say that is a BAD idea I hope you fly alone and not over populated areas. That stuff does not play well with a lot of o-rings and gaskets in the fuel system. Goo in an aircraft fuel system is not good and can become VERY expensive. Your post made my skin crawl. [:0][:0][V]
Jay
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom