sandking
Member
I have a question. I want to finish my pens with thin CA glue, but the article I see says to use BLO with CA. I don't have BLO, can I still use CA? Does the BLO change the color or depth of the wood? What purpose does it serve?
What does BLO do for finish?
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JDPens
Member
I am still pretty new at this, but as far as I know, the BLO acts as an accelerator for the CA. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, please. My understanding is that once you put CA on the pen, you then use BLO which accelerates the curing of the CA as well as help polish/oil the pen.
sandking
Member
Does it need to be used? I heard the paper towel and the friction is also an accelerator for CA.
JTaylor801
Member
I'm still a student at the CA/BLO method...however, I can tell you that I'm hooked. While I think there may be something in a paper towel that could be a natural accelerator for CA, I believe the BLO also acts as a lubricant to help evenly spread out the CA as it's curing. This may or may not be what BLO is doing...but I think it looks like it's possible.
I picked up some BLO from Lowes it was only a couple of bucks for a small can.
I picked up some BLO from Lowes it was only a couple of bucks for a small can.
Russb
Member
I believe the BLO is a lubricant the enhances the flow of the CA. Like JT says. If it was an accelerator you would not have time to apply the CA. Some paper towels seem to have something in them that does accelerate the CA. Yes you can use CA without the BLO.
Skye
Member
The BLO will act as an accelerant as will the celulose in the paper towels.
You apply the CA first, then the BLO. It'll accelerate the curing after the CA is already applied.
I think the only lubrication function is just to allow the rag to pass over the blank while the BLO is being applied.
So far, mine have all come out with a satin finish. Not real fond of it so far...
You apply the CA first, then the BLO. It'll accelerate the curing after the CA is already applied.
I think the only lubrication function is just to allow the rag to pass over the blank while the BLO is being applied.
So far, mine have all come out with a satin finish. Not real fond of it so far...
Joe - There are several articles and videos on both CA and CA/BLO finishes. Try them both. See which works for you. Then perfect it. There is no "right" way to finish a pen. As for what part the BLO plays, if applied to raw wood first, it will darken it and tend to "pop" the grain (make it stand out more). Applied over top of the CA, it acts as bot a lubricant and an accelerator. The paper towel also accelerates the curing of CA. That's why you want to use medium or thick CA with a longer cure time.
vick
Member
I am not sure about the polish oiling the pen since the BLO will be on the surface of the CA not in the wood.
CA cures in the absence of air so when you cover the CA with BLO it will harden almost instantly. Denatured alcohol will also do this but you will get the whiteing associated with accelerators. You will also see bowl turners use saw dust of shaving to do the same thing.
Personally I see the BLO helping to smooth out the layer of CA and helping it cure faster.
Dario
Member
You can use CA without BLO. I personally use CA only.
As mentioned, BLO can darken the wood and make the grain pop better (as most oils). It does act as CA accelerant and lubricant when applying CA. Some reported it causing haze thought. Others perfect it and use it without problems.
Experiment and find what works best for you.
As mentioned, BLO can darken the wood and make the grain pop better (as most oils). It does act as CA accelerant and lubricant when applying CA. Some reported it causing haze thought. Others perfect it and use it without problems.
Experiment and find what works best for you.
TellicoTurning
Member
Joe,
Glad you asked your question.. just started doing CA/BLO myself and was thinking I had the order backwards..
Glad you asked your question.. just started doing CA/BLO myself and was thinking I had the order backwards..
Here's Fangar's technique. I love it.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=11970&SearchTerms=ca
No BLO needed. I do use BLO to darken things a little and then finish over it. The finish gets better with age in my opinion.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=11970&SearchTerms=ca
No BLO needed. I do use BLO to darken things a little and then finish over it. The finish gets better with age in my opinion.
bradh
Member
There are different methods and we are seeing them here. Some start with the CA, others with the BLO. When you start with the CA you get good sealing of the wood and by wet sanding with CA, it can flaten rough grain.
When you start with the BLO it "pops the grain", meaning it intensifies the grain by darkening the grain lines in wood.
The BLO actually reacts with the CA. I recently re-posted a submission from a Chemist who explains the chemical reaction. Too complex for the layman, but basically the result is that BLO is a mild accellerant and actally binds with the CA to create a hard finish.
The BLO is also a lubricant and can help when the CA does not want to flow evenly. Try to apply CA to African Blackwood. If you stop smoothing the CA before it has set, it will leave dull patches as the CA flows away from the oils in the wood. The BLO helps you smooth the setting CA and get coverage over oily areas where the CA does not cover well.
I have been using BLO/CA for two years now and tried many variations. I start with BLO in my finishes. This method was recently documented in video by Russ Fairfield. I developed my method seperate from Russ, but he has come to the same conclusions. He is also much better that I at explaining the methods.
The method shown by Fangar starts with the CA. It is a better method with very rough grains or soft woods like spalted.
Hope this helps everyone understand the differences in methods,
Brad
When you start with the BLO it "pops the grain", meaning it intensifies the grain by darkening the grain lines in wood.
The BLO actually reacts with the CA. I recently re-posted a submission from a Chemist who explains the chemical reaction. Too complex for the layman, but basically the result is that BLO is a mild accellerant and actally binds with the CA to create a hard finish.
The BLO is also a lubricant and can help when the CA does not want to flow evenly. Try to apply CA to African Blackwood. If you stop smoothing the CA before it has set, it will leave dull patches as the CA flows away from the oils in the wood. The BLO helps you smooth the setting CA and get coverage over oily areas where the CA does not cover well.
I have been using BLO/CA for two years now and tried many variations. I start with BLO in my finishes. This method was recently documented in video by Russ Fairfield. I developed my method seperate from Russ, but he has come to the same conclusions. He is also much better that I at explaining the methods.
The method shown by Fangar starts with the CA. It is a better method with very rough grains or soft woods like spalted.
Hope this helps everyone understand the differences in methods,
Brad
bob393
Member
Don't laugh what is BLO? [:I]
JimGo
Member
Bob, check here: http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4227
(but BLO is Boiled Linseed Oil)
(but BLO is Boiled Linseed Oil)
bob393
Member
Thanks, I had a feeling it was somthing simple.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Skye, I think you got this backwards. Russ, on his videos, and others that I learned from wet the paper towels with BLO. Then after the BLO soaks in, places some CA on the BLO spot of the paper towel. One technique does soak a spot on the paper towel with BLO and rub this on the spinning blank while applying CA there.
AS to accelerator - my own experience has been this: I used BLO/CA for several months and then went to straight CA using disposable rubber gloves to apply the CA. Paper towels sometime would "catch" on the CA and pen, ruining the work up to that point. (I did not have the technique perfected for me.) So the rubber gloves did a good job. After using the rubber gloves for several months, something dawned on me. The fast CA was taking more time to cure that before. Then I went back to BLO/CA and noticed the same CA curing faster. The BLO / paper towell was acting as an accelerator as compared to just using a rubber glove.
The difference that I noted between BLO/CA paper towell versus CA rubber gloves is that the CA provided a thicker finish with the rubber gloves and a little slower in curing. The BLO/CA with paper towell applied thinner coats. I went back to the thinner coats with the BLO/CA paper towell as it was more consistant in its finish overall for me.
I will take my licks for what I said wrong above. It has been my understanding so far.
bradh
Member
When I do BLO/CA, I put BLO on a spot on the towel but then I apply the CA while rubbing a clean setion of the towel on the blank. After a few seconds to smooth the CA, I move the towel so the BLO section is now rubbing over the blank. I continue rubbing until I am sure the CA has set.
Brad
Brad
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