Well I tried it again.

[WoodChucker]

Plastic, the turning part went a little better this time, but I had some problems with the sanding (tiny sand marks) that I didn't find until the finishing was done. Not real bad but enough to bug me. But I talked to Fred in another post and he gave me the scoop on what I needed to do and I'm sure the next one will be better.

Anyway, it's a Jr. Statesman rollerball made from a Gold/black celluloid I got from CSUSA.

R.T.

 

[Fred in NC]

R.T. The pen looks real nice! If the scratches are small a little wax will help.

One of the forgotten steps, no matter what sanding sheets you are using, is to wipe the barrel after each grit. Particles left over can cause scratches later. One place where these particles tend to hide is between the barrel and the bushings. Don't ask me how I found out ....

 

[PenWorks]

Good looking pen RT. I see your starting to get the hang of turning that resin. I bought those plastic sand pads, they work okay. but I ussually wet sand to 600 then run thru the MM to 12000 than hit it with a rubbing compound and the plastic polish. I buff some on a Beal system, but if I did it right on my other steps, the result is the same. Anthony

 

[WoodChucker]

Thanks Fred, I used some polish thats for plastic, I got it from CSUSA, but I only used one coat, does it need more? I think where I screwed up was, sanded to 600 grit using sand paper and then started sand with those different colored pads made for plastic. I'm thinking I should have stopped at about 220 with the sand paper and then started with the pads. But I'm going to try what you suggested in the other post first, and try using the MM also. Thanks again!

R.T.

 

[jkirkb94]

R.T. I just got back today from my local Woodcraft store and bought some Micromesh <u>pads</u> that are from 1500 to 12000. This is similar to their Pen Finishing Kit for plastic and Corian but in MM. Same price. I don't see it on their website. My local store just got them in. I use the Pen Finishing Kit pads for all of my plastics. I wet sand. Kirk [8D]

 

[WoodChucker]

Anthony, see what I mean about falling asleep at the wheel? lol. I almost missed your post. Thanks for the info and I'll play around with it tonight, now I have a few ways to practice with.

Thanks Kirk, I'll check around the net and see if I can find what your talking about, I don't have a WC store near me, but someone else must carry them. Appreciate the tip!

R.T.

 

[wayneis]

RT I start out by wet sanding with 220 and continue to 600, then I switch ove to wet sanding with the colored MM pads that are in all the catalogs. After I hit it with a little Meguires Mirror Glaze, an Automotive clear coat polishing compound and then if needed I use either the MM plastic polish or the Craft Supply plastic polish, which ever is closer to hand at the time. To me, the trick to any of the plastic's is do all snading wet. I don't do any dry sanding at all.

Wayne

 

[WoodChucker]

Thanks Wayne, thats pretty much what I did, it looked pretty good until I started with the first pad. It put a lot of scratches in it that never came out. But like I said, I didn't see um until I was done with the finishing. I'm sure I just need to practice more, but I wasn't crazy about those pads, they just didn't feel right to me. I'm going to try the MM on my next one, at least I already know how to use it. Anyway, thanks again and don't go anywhere, I'll be back! That was my Arnold Schwarzenegger Impression, pretty good, hey? []

R.T.