WATERLOX question

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nwcatman

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Sep 30, 2007
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298
Location
south texas
have been reading about it and have some questions i hope someone can answer for me. i want to try it on some peppermills maybe.

1. if applied w/a brush will it level out or will it have to be turned on the lathe by hand until it dries.

2. does it need to be sanded/buffed/? between coats.

3. should i use the waterlox SEALER before i apply the waterlox GLOSSY.

THANKS
 
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Waterlox is an oil. I wipe it on heavy with a rag then wipe off the excess. Let it dry for 24 hours, then apply another coat, let it dry another day. The more coats you put on the glossier it will get. I use 3200 MM between coats. If you want to buff it after 3 to 6 coats, I would let it set a week to dry before buffing. I have not use the sealer, just the Waterlox.
 
I have always wiped it on. It gives a great finish, the only problem I have with it is it has a very short shelf life. I have tried every thing I know to keep it but it gels up real fast once open.
 
Paul, that is a real big down side to a great product. I have thrown more away than I use.:(
The thing that has been working best for me is, I put some selafane wrap over the cap and store the can upside down. I tried the spray as well, but was not to pleased with the results.
 
well thats what i wanted to know! wasn't too happy about the shelf life part though. and the stuff is really expensive too.
 
Originally posted by PaulDoug

I have always wiped it on. It gives a great finish, the only problem I have with it is it has a very short shelf life. I have tried every thing I know to keep it but it gels up real fast once open.
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I decant into small jars and fill to the brim so there is no air left in the jar. I use 4oz baby food jars. As I use the finish, I then use marbles to bring the level back to the top.
 
haven't i seen in catalogs about a product thatgoes under pressure into containers to prevent the finish from gelling?
 
I've heard you can do the same thing with a butane torch. Turn it on, DON'T LIGHT IT, let the butane flow into the container. It will force the air out and is heavier than air so it will settle over the liquid and prevent air from getting to it. That is what I read, I have never tried it.
 
I tried both bloxygen and propane. It works well with poly and varnish, so-so with waterlox.

Compressed air that is sold as keyboard cleaners work as well as bloxygen and about 25% of the cost.

The best method I found is small glass jars and marbles.
 
Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA

I tried both bloxygen and propane. It works well with poly and varnish, so-so with waterlox.

Compressed air that is sold as keyboard cleaners work as well as bloxygen and about 25% of the cost.

The best method I found is small glass jars and marbles.
Click to expand...


I'm pretty sure the keyboard cleaners are simply liquid CO2, which will do well at pushing out the oxygen from the jar-- CO2 is a good bit heavier than oxygen and won't "float out" like lighter gasses (like helium).


Lol, when I read the tip on the butane torch, my first thought was "ooooh, that will be pretty!" but then I noticed the "DO NOT LIGHT IT"

[}:)]
 
Leftover finish preserver

nwcatman said:
haven't i seen in catalogs about a product thatgoes under pressure into containers to prevent the finish from gelling?
Click to expand...

The product I think you're reffering to is called BlOxygen, Leftover finish preserver, however I have not tested it out myself but my favorite finishing guru says that as long as you follow the directions it work extremelt well. It is available from Woodcraft for about 12.00 a can. Has about 50-75 uses per qt. can.

Hope this helps!
-Anna
 
A friend told me that it takes very little exposure to air for the gelling process to start. He poured it int sealed containers and, lo and behold, they all gelled at the same time!! I still love the finish - like everyone else I apply coats with a rag until I am satisfied with the build.
 
An easy way to use Waterlox or any similar oil finish is to soak the pen barrels in the liquid for a hour, take them out and wip dry, set them aside for several days to a week, and them buff them with the Beale wheels. You could plug the ends with little corks, but I don't worry about what gets inside the tubes, and clean them out with a rifle bore brush in a hand drill when the finish is dry. This finish takes a week, but there is very little actual time involved.

Just be aware that these oil finishes will impart a darker color to the wood. That could be a good thing, but might not be suitable for something you want to keep a lighter color. Also be aware that oils can give a blotchy appearance to woods like Maple and Cherry.
 
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