Vacuum options

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Haynie

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May 20, 2011
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Page Arizona
I am ordering a vacuum pump to use with two other projects. It will draw 3.15 cfm and a maximum of 24hg.

Seeing as how I have this little pen making addict...um...hobby I was wondering if a person can cast under vacuum? I have read all about the stabilization aspect but can't seem to find if people cast this way.
 

Ed McDonnell

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Oct 20, 2008
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Melbourne, FL
You could use vacuum to degas your resin, but you wouldn't leave it under vacuum for curing. You would cure it at room pressure.

Vacuum degassing is good for a lot of casting situations, but some applications need pressure (e.g. urethane resins, or complicated embedments). I work exclusively with PR and I always use vacuum for degassing. I rarely use pressure.


Ed
 

Justturnin

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Aug 19, 2011
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Houston, Tx
+1 on Vacuum for degas. If you pour resin over wood and then pull it under a vacuum you will have a real mess and likely end up with foamy resin because it will pull the air out of the wood and through the resin. There is a lot of air in wood.
 

FlowolF

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Mar 15, 2013
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Location
Ribble Valley, East Lancashire, England.
Late to the fray here.

I've not made a pen yet (but keep yer eyes open, heheh.. ), but played with several resins/stabilising/casting/'embedding' and general experiments of the sort quite intensively these last few years so, here's how I look at it.

I must also echo not to try and cast under vacuum - it's 100% counterproductive, as all you're doing is keeping the tiny voids that do remain inflated to their maximum size then locked there as it sets, and that will show in/on the final piece and the resin may not adhere well to anything being cast in it (DAMHIK*T*).

I tend to be using the much slower curing systems at the minute, so I degass all of them, difference is only in how deep a vacuum and how long I decide to or can leave it.

The particular '24hr' rigid/clear casting epoxy I use can take maximum vacuuming for even a few hours, and I often pre-pour degass, and then again in the mould if I have anything else in there (especially porous stuff like plant matter).

The PU50 urethane (stated 10-18 hours?.. ) and most of it's sisters in the range that are slow enough, seems best not to exceed 27Hg, and under 5 mins, or it suddenly starts to boil off an aromatic component, foams up, gets hot and then sets suddenly, sometimes still crackling (DAMHIKT).

But it^ still benefits from a quick pre-pour degass, and I have vacuumed it in the mould full of other things too.

For some of the things I cast, degassing in the mould seems to get the most air out and after releasing the vacuum, seems to give the resin a bit of 'bite' into the wood/whatever I'm embedding.

If I have a working pressure pot at the time I'll leave the moulds in a warm place until they are just about to start turning, them put them in the pressure pot, (I get about 40/45 psi max ATM) keep it warm until it sets.

Have read a lot but have no personal experience of the quicker uretrhanes, so I've nothing to add there, but I did many years ago play with one Polyester system and I hated it personally - didn't like so much heat generated when encapsulating some things, didn't like the feel or look, plus mine kept setting in the bloody can at the end of summer - so I have no good experiences with them to add nor did I have vac. or pressure but others definitely have.

But anyway - that's just what I do and why, but I'm the kinda guy who has this sh*t rattling around his skull all the time, so I could have some of it bass-akwards, who knows.

',;~}~

FlowolF is rambling as he's (off his meds and) on too much coffee <chuckle>
 
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