Updated Ultraseal Instructions

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RBoutin

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Ann Arbor, MI
Attached is an updated version of Ultraseal instructions based on feedback received so far. Some of the testers are receiving a sample of Version 2 which should address some concerns about cure hardness. These instructions are applicable to both versions.

Thanks,

Bob
 

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The difference is primarily in the bake temperature and time based on feedback from testers. I also tried to clarify that the only way to cure is through high heat. Curing longer at lower temperatures will not result in the stabilizer curing properly.
 
I can already see my mistakes in the instructions. Specifically, the temp,
gummy residue, vacuum time..
I gotta rethink using the little vacuum pump, I'm not sure if it is
strong enough to work with this.
 
Vacuum level and time will only affect the penetration depth. Your vacuum pump has no bearing on the quality of the cured product. It is only temperature, time at temperature, and contaminants like dyes or oils that determine if it cures to a hard polishable finish, or if it cures to slime.



NewLondon88 said:
I can already see my mistakes in the instructions. Specifically, the temp,
gummy residue, vacuum time..
I gotta rethink using the little vacuum pump, I'm not sure if it is
strong enough to work with this.
Click to expand...
 
RBoutin said:
Vacuum level and time will only affect the penetration depth. Your vacuum pump has no bearing on the quality of the cured product.
Click to expand...

Yep.. That's the burl with the nice hard shell and the inside like coffee grounds. :tongue:
RBoutin said:
It is only temperature, time at temperature, and contaminants like dyes or oils that determine if it cures to a hard polishable finish, or if it cures to slime.
Click to expand...

and that would be the TransTint experiment gone awry. Looked great at first..
 
RBoutin said:
Vacuum level and time will only affect the penetration depth. Your vacuum pump has no bearing on the quality of the cured product. It is only temperature, time at temperature, and contaminants like dyes or oils that determine if it cures to a hard polishable finish, or if it cures to slime.
Click to expand...
I was boiling a batch the other day and had the ziplock's seal fail, leaving me no choice but to abort heating about half way through.

If I now reheat these blanks, will the product cure correctly?
 
I haven't tried it but I'm skeptical it would cure the same as if it were done in one shot. Nothing to lose by giving it a try though, maybe we'll both be pleasantly surprised.
 
Bob ... A question to ponder.

If one were to prepare to heat a recently poured blank, would one use a preheated oven vs. starting the heating process from a 'cold' oven and then allowing the items to remain for a specified length of time?

I know it makes a difference in normal baking, as in bread making, but I have mulled over this and wonder if a hot oven vs. a cold oven would make much difference as long as the core temperatures of the blank were heated to the necessary temperature and for the required length of time.

Now I have confused my train of thought even more, so you now have got to explain the proper procedures please.
 
Well I see my problem was the temp ... back to the drawing board.

my wife bought the vacuum seal baggies ... I'll give that a try today.
 
Last edited:
I'm still waiting for the USII to arrive. Hope it comes early today, I have time to fuss with it. And wife will be gone so I won't get strange looks for using the oven for stinky wood.
As for time/temp, the first test with US 1, I did use higher than reccomended heat for a longer period of time. There is a feeling that the wood (Redbud) may have reacted with the product to skew normal results.
 
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