Probably just the picture. On the nib end of the light one it looked like the wood was slightly larger than the nib and slightly under in the other side. I posted a picture of some bottle stoppers a week or two ago. When I looked at the post I would have swore one had a crack. Had to go check and what looked like a crack was just wood grain. Whoever said pictures never lie,was lyingKen they look fine to me they are both turned between centres. I would appreciate a explanation. I'm sure you have good reason for your comments.
Thank you Mark I like criticism it helps me improve. And you are all better pen makers than I am. So I rely on you comments its what the IAP is all about.Both are very nice. I like the stained, but the burn lines/skew lines are also nice. On my screen, I do not see issues with out-of-round, although I may have preferred a slightly wider mating in the first pen (plain sycamore) on the left. It looks like an exact match with the clip, but the larger component is what I would aim for - Just my opinion.
Very nice display and discussion.
Very nice pens, I like the lighter one better. I think this is what Ken was talking about (see attached). It may not be out of round in reality, but the reason I'm following up here is that this out-of-round thing is an evil little problem that comes up for apparently no reason. Happens to me once in a while and if anyone knows what's happening, I'd love to hear it.
I've had the same problem. Non-concentricity. In my case, at least one of the causes, I think, is a very slightly bent pin on my PSI TBC mandrel set. The pin on the live center (in the tailstock) is ever so slightly angled. I think that means the bushing is oscillating (shifting) while it rotates, meaning when I turn the blank down, one side is lower, the other higher, according to the shifting of the bushing.
I've purchased a simple 60 degree cone dead center, to use with my 60 degree live center, to attempt turning between centers without any shaft at all. The cone shape of the centers should allow the bushings to slide up until they are snug. I am not certain this will eliminate non-concentricity issues on its own...I may have to make additional adjustments (i.e. figure out whether pulling the tailstock towards me, pushing it away, or maybe twisting it, when I lock it down, will in fact give me the most concentric turning possible.
This was in fact the topic of my first thread here, and the very reason I am here! Out of round issues, which in fact I think, based on the responses to my thread, are really non-concentricity issues most of the time.