Turning pens on metal lathe

[mecompco]

So I've read through pretty much this whole metal lathe forum and didn't find much on actually turning pens. I've got an Atlas 12x36 and have so far only done straight pens. I don't have a tool rest for chisels, so am using a cutter in the tool post.

My question for those (if any) using similar equipment is how do you turn tapered pens?

Do you just adjust the tool depth as you cut? Do you turn the ends to the proper diameter and sand the taper(s)?

Thanks for any advice!

Regards,
Michael

 

[Dalecamino]

You're on the right track Michael. I use the etch-a-scetch method to taper my barrels. (I suppose others do it this way too) Your taper will be determined by the diameter of the clip ring and, finial you will be making (assuming you WILL be making your own finial). After making your rough cut with this method, you will remove any grooves with a metal file then, sand appropriately. Use oil for lube. Hope this makes sense

 

[triw51]

You're on the right track Michael. I use the etch-a-scetch method to taper my barrels. (I suppose others do it this way too) Your taper will be determined by the diameter of the clip ring and, finial you will be making (assuming you WILL be making your own finial). After making your rough cut with this method, you will remove any grooves with a metal file then, sand appropriately. Use oil for lube. Hope this makes sense

When I used a metal lathe for pens I also did the etch-a-scetch method. With practice you can get good at cross feeding while going down the lenght.
Also I would do small plung cuts forming little steps which I leveled with 80 grit sandpaper on a tongue depresser. Then sanded and finished.

 

[magpens]

The top part of the compound tool-holding mechanism normally has the ability to be set to a calibrated angle relative the the turning axis. This allows you to easily turn a *straight* taper.

Turning a curved taper ... now that requires some calculation and experience. I do an approximation to a curved taper and finish it off with sandpaper.
.
.
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https://www.google.ca/search?q=diag...the%2FIntroduction%2Fintroduction.htm;561;302

 

[mredburn]

Atlas has two wood turning tool rests that attach to the tool post. You can find them on Ebay from time to time. This allows you to use reg wood turning tools on the lathe.
You can also use a round or square bar in the tool post sticking out to the side to support the tools.

Here is a link to one for the 6 inch atlas lathe but the ones for the 10/12 inch look the same. Typically there is a shorter one like pictured and a longer one as well to the set.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Atlas-618...770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fedc05a2

 

[plantman]

So I've read through pretty much this whole metal lathe forum and didn't find much on actually turning pens. I've got an Atlas 12x36 and have so far only done straight pens. I don't have a tool rest for chisels, so am using a cutter in the tool post.

My question for those (if any) using similar equipment is how do you turn tapered pens?

Do you just adjust the tool depth as you cut? Do you turn the ends to the proper diameter and sand the taper(s)?

Thanks for any advice!

Regards,
Michael

Simple answer Michael !! You don't turn tapered pens, you use metal files to make any shape you want. Turn your blank down to the largest diameter you want using the cutting tool in your tool holder. Measure your fittings and bring your blank ends down to just over this size using Med. or fine metal files. 6" works great for this. Now take varied shaped metal or diamond files to cut, taper, or shape any profile you desire. Sand to 220, 600, or whatever smoothness you want and finish. Some of the more expensive metal lathes will cut straight tapers however. One thing to remember is that a metal lathe mostly uses a shearing cut, side to side or across the face of an object on a fixed post. A metal lathe is very precise, consistant, controlled, and will have very few grabs. It can also be worked with right or left hand and if the cutter is properly shaped, will cut on the forward and reverse stroke. Jim S

 

[mecompco]

Thanks!

Thank you all for the advice. Here's a little project I just completed with a combination of etch-a-sketch, fine file and sanding. One came out a little better than the other, but both fit my MTs tightly and line up well.



Now to try it on a pen.

Regards,
Michael

 

[magpens]

Michael, nicely done !!

But what does MT mean, in the context you use it ?

"but both fit my MTs tightly and line up well."

Morse Taper ???

 

[chartle]

Michael, nicely done !!

But what does MT mean, in the context you use it ?

"but both fit my MTs tightly and line up well."

Morse Taper ???

Yes they look like they are for some sort of jig. hence the blocks of plastic. Maybe to hold something between them.

 

[mecompco]

Michael, nicely done !!

But what does MT mean, in the context you use it ?

"but both fit my MTs tightly and line up well."

Morse Taper ???

Sorry, I should have explained. This is to use the lathe as a pen assembly press (have been using my bench vise w/field expedient (aka paper towel and scrap wood) padding. It works, but not well. I found an article w/dimensions to make this project. It fits into the Morse Tapers for the head and tail stock so one can use the lathe as a press. Hope to try it out today.

Regards,
Michael

 

[Chuck Key]

My question for those (if any) using similar equipment is how do you turn tapered pens?

Do you just adjust the tool depth as you cut? Do you turn the ends to the proper diameter and sand the taper(s)?

Template follower. I used a template to cut convex shaped flats on this pen:

See it here

You would need to let the cross slide float allowing it to follow the template.

 

[Dalecamino]

:redface: I thought you were tapering pen parts :redface:

 

[mecompco]

Yes

:redface: I thought you were tapering pen parts :redface:

Yes, pens! :biggrin: The pen press was just a trial run (and I wanted to make it). Kinda hijacking my own thread, but tried the pen press out today and it works perfectly--I can't imagine how one of the $50 jobs could work any better. It sure beats the heck out of trying to juggle pen parts and padding and turn a bench vise at the same time.

 

[mecompco]

Today's Pen

First pen off the lathe that has (a little) taper to it. I think it came out OK. I have to get faster, though, and some more bits. I only have one cutter and only a right-hand tool holder. Doing the part while keeping an acute angle was a bit of a challenge.



Regards,
Michael

 

[PenPal]

:redface: I thought you were tapering pen parts :redface:

Yes, pens! :biggrin: The pen press was just a trial run (and I wanted to make it). Kinda hijacking my own thread, but tried the pen press out today and it works perfectly--I can't imagine how one of the $50 jobs could work any better. It sure beats the heck out of trying to juggle pen parts and padding and turn a bench vise at the same time.

I use a bearing press mounted at eye height sitting turning I swivel the chair press the pen in a trice have done for nigh on twenty years job done if you only have one lathe you have to open up the way for your device to fit it in the head and tail stock if you dedicate a second lathe which I could easily momentum is lost. Recently bought a VicMarc 150 fitted my new one where the VL100 was this lathe now behind where I turn. Every time you drift out of the head stock you increase the likely hood of problems I also lock the collet chuck in the headstock with a threaded rod. Works for me.

Peter.

 

[magpens]

Good looking pen, Michael !! ... Is that bocote wood ? ... Which pen kit did you use ? ... CA finish ?

 

[mecompco]

Thanks!

Good looking pen, Michael !! ... Is that bocote wood ? ... Which pen kit did you use ? ... CA finish ?

Yup, Bocote from a 5/8" blank (which I'm finding I prefer over the 3/4"--quite a time saver and I feel better about not making chips out of 99% of it). The kit is a PSI Funline Comfort. I did this one with the comfort grip, the next one I'll make full-length, I think.

This kit has you make two full-length blanks, turn them, then part-off an inch for the comfort grip. This seems wasteful, so next time I'm thinking why not glue up a short blank leaving an inch of tube. I'll drill out one of the bushings to 7mm to go over the tube for turning.

The finish (did twice 'cause I'm still messing up) is CA, micro-meshed and plastic polished.

I hope the recipient like it.

Regards,
Michael

 

[farmer]

Taper

So I've read through pretty much this whole metal lathe forum and didn't find much on actually turning pens. I've got an Atlas 12x36 and have so far only done straight pens. I don't have a tool rest for chisels, so am using a cutter in the tool post.

My question for those (if any) using similar equipment is how do you turn tapered pens?

Do you just adjust the tool depth as you cut? Do you turn the ends to the proper diameter and sand the taper(s)?

Thanks for any advice!

Regards,
Michael

I have a CNC router that is large enough to mount a modified taig based lathe on it.

I cut all my tapers with the CNC router .

It seems to work pretty good.