Turning down to the bushings !!!!!

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ekeogh

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Jun 14, 2020
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Location
Massachusetts, USA
I keep getting replies on some social media pen groups to turn the wood down to the bushings but I don't know how to do that and make it so it's not that fat at the nib and cap but don't know how to do that and keep the barrel on the thicker side!!!!!

I am also afraid that I'll turn the wood too far and break the blank...

I have been using carbide tools to turn the blank.
 
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FGarbrecht

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Aug 22, 2019
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Bushings are only a rough guide to sizing the blank during turning. Turn down to approximate bushing size and finish your turning using a digital caliper. Measure the parts that will butt into the blank(s) and turn the blank down to those measurements (also taking into account a small amount of thickness that will be added during the finishing process).

OR, dispense with bushings altogether, turn between centers and just rely on your measurements. I don't use bushings anymore, waste of money and not very accurate.

Also, if you break the blank then join the club. Everyone does it. It's part of the learning process.
 

egnald

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Jun 9, 2017
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Columbus, Nebraska, USA
Greetings from Nebraska. Am I correct in assuming you are talking about a "Slimline" or "Funline" type of pen? By their design there is a very thin wall of wood outside of the tube, especially by the nib and cap if you trim them down to the bushings.

Since I have a bunch of "Slimline" pen kits but I prefer a thicker body, I purchased a bunch of "Comfort" center bands and a set of "Comfort" bushings (from Turners Warehouse). The "Comfort" style is just like a "Slimline" but with a thicker mid-section.

The "Cigar" pens have become my favorite for an inexpensive kit. They have much more meat on them than the "Slimline" or "Comfort" style pens.

Regards,
Dave (egnald)
 
Joined
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Location
Wolf Creek Montana
Greetings from Nebraska. Am I correct in assuming you are talking about a "Slimline" or "Funline" type of pen? By their design there is a very thin wall of wood outside of the tube, especially by the nib and cap if you trim them down to the bushings.

Since I have a bunch of "Slimline" pen kits but I prefer a thicker body, I purchased a bunch of "Comfort" center bands and a set of "Comfort" bushings (from Turners Warehouse). The "Comfort" style is just like a "Slimline" but with a thicker mid-section.

The "Cigar" pens have become my favorite for an inexpensive kit. They have much more meat on them than the "Slimline" or "Comfort" style pens.

Regards,
Dave (egnald)


The Comfort pens are my best sellers...until Covid hit. But a nice pen and an easy turn.
 

leehljp

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Feb 6, 2005
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9,314
Location
Tunica, Mississippi,
Use CALIPERs.
These can be purchased for about $10.00 at least every other month on sale with coupon from HF.
DON'T get the composite ones as they are not as stiff as the metal ones.

I have been turning pens for 15+ years and learned early on that bushings are not reliable as measurements for great fitting.

It is OK to be proud of what you make, but it is even better when others are proud of the pen they got from you because the wood and fittings match perfectly in size. That is what calipers can do for you.
 

jjjaworski

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Feb 22, 2012
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Las Cruces, NM
I agree on using calipers and those Harbor Freight ones can't be beat for price. As long as you measure the mating hardware and try to match the blank with that measurement you will get much better results.

No sense spending way more money on a more expensive set of digital calipers geared for machinists and toolmakers. Even if these are off by .001-002 you are still comparing what you measure on the hardware to the turned portion of the blank. If the numbers match so will the parts.
 

Don Rabchenuk

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Aug 18, 2015
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Middleburg, FL
I would suggest you watch a video from Mark.
 

Richard92

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Jan 30, 2020
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Boston Lincolnshire
I have to agree with you guys on the use of a digital caliper. I have had a couple of occations were the transition between the body and nib were out. I now use it on all pens wether using the correct bushes or not.
 

mg_dreyer

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Dec 1, 2006
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Location
Aurora, Ill, USA.
I would suggest you watch a video from Mark.


Thanks Don.

In general when turning wood or acrylic I employ a three step process:
  • First round the blank and work it to about 1/8" to 1/16" proud of the bushings
  • Then from outside-in gently let the tool work the material backwards into the blank (this assures no chip out or under turned blanks)
  • Now using finishing cut - work the shape of your blank
This is covered in the Turning Acrylic With Carbide Tools video under the link above

Now as for sanding:
  • Sand the blank starting at what ever grit you need (100 / 220 / or any starting point)
  • Never go near the bushings with any grit above (lower in number) than 320 - do not want to undercut
This is covered in the Sanding video under the link above

Hope these help and once again - thanks Don,
Mark
 
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