Turning curves on a metal lathe

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mathewsmith

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Hello everyone, I recently bought a metal lathe upgrading from my woodworking lathe. As being an amateur hobbyist woodturner, it is quite fun to shape wooden things and I love those handmade curves especially. Now after moving on to the metal lathe, I am enjoying using this as well, but whenever I turn pens they do come out to be mostly boring straight shaped. I can add some organic curves using my handheld tools, but is it possible to do curves on a metal lathe using the carriage only? I am newbie in using metal lathes and still learning everyday how to use it better; any links or any help is very appreciated! Thank you in advance!
 
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Dalecamino

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If you have the 7" x ? you can use the etch a sketch method where you turn both the cross slide wheel and carriage wheel at the same time. Also a set of good metal files will help. I watched a video years ago in witch a guy had a turret mounted on his tool post, and actually made a ball on his lathe. Sorry I don't have any information on that video or tool. There you have my little tidbit. Good luck!
 

bmachin

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Try doing a search. There was a fairly long thread on this site--probably within the last year.

Edit: Just found the thread here:


Bill
 
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More4dan

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More4dan

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I would be happy to walk you through the modification and how it works. PM me if interested and I'll send my number. It took an afternoon to build with stuff I had in my shop. The premise will work and improvements I'm sure could be done.


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magpens

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Etch a sketch them and blend with a file. No fancy jigs necessary
I agree with this approach. . When turning shapes for pens you never want severe curvatures (such as small spheres).

I do a lot of this mildly-curved shaping on my metal lathe. . For some I use the cross feed at a couple of different angled settings and then round the resulting unwanted "ridges" using a file or coarse sand paper to get the final smooth curvature. . It does not take long at all and, for me, is preferable to investing time in making a jig.

I would not call my techniques "etch-a-sketch" ... it is even more primitive than that because I don't have any well-developed coordination skills for turning the hand wheels on the lathe in a synchronized way.

Sometimes I have to calculate an angular setting for the cross feed and that is just a little challenging if you have no recollection of your high school trigonometry but once you review the concept of tangent and arc-tangent it becomes quite straightforward.

One word of caution though .... do not rely on the angular calibration marks engraved on the cross feed cuz they're rather coarse.
It is much better to buy and use a "Pro-Angle Digital Protractor" - Part No. 1702 from General Tools & Instruments. . This helpful tool allows you to set the angle to an accuracy of better than 0.1 degree. . I use it all the time after I've calculated desired angles for a "new" shape that I want to create.

Note, however, that after a little experience you get to know the appropriate cross-feed settings for your common pen shapes.
Many of the shapes you want to create are very similar. . For most pens it's just a matter of fine tuning what you've done before.
Keep a notebook with a record of what you have done so that you can refer to your previous experiences.

The "etch-a-sketch" term is just a term and does not necessarily imply any sophisticated skills. . You can do most things with a file and/or sandpaper without even touching the angled cross-feed adjustments if you want to keep things very simple. . But learning to use the cross-feed settings and wheels can be helfpul.

If you do alter the angled setting of your cross-feed, make sure you reset to the zero setting when you're finished your task.
Otherwise, you could forget to do it later and then screw up an important cut on the next pen. . Any angled settings that you make are almost always very small and you might not notice such a small angle when you start your next pen.

Another word of caution if you are using a file ... don't let the file contact your bushings (if you are still using bushings) and don't let the vile file contact your dead or live centers if you are "turning between centers" (a highly recommended method).
 
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mathewsmith

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I can't say by words how much grateful I am to everyone of you. Every thing I learn, maybe it is small or big, is a large step for me. I thank
Dalecamino, bmachine, more4dan, robs, jalbert, magpens for the help. I think I will try to use the most basic method as told by magpens as well as using jigs told by others, whichever suits me well.

Using a duplicator or a tracer does the job faster than using files I think?
 

More4dan

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I can't say by words how much grateful I am to everyone of you. Every thing I learn, maybe it is small or big, is a large step for me. I thank
Dalecamino, bmachine, more4dan, robs, jalbert, magpens for the help. I think I will try to use the most basic method as told by magpens as well as using jigs told by others, whichever suits me well.

Using a duplicator or a tracer does the job faster than using files I think?

The duplicator/tracer works better when making several of the same pen. It can greatly increase your efficiency. It also is helpful when turning metals. I do sometimes use a file when doing something simple like profiling a nose cone for a Kitless click pen. There is some setup time when using the pattern. It will, however, reduce sanding time associated with sanding out the file marks. I built my tracer to fill a large order for 30 seam rippers. I was able to knock them out in a day. I now use it regularly for closed end kitless pens. I have a tapered curved pattern that I just use for both ends of the pen so the profiles match.

If you decide to give it a try, I'd be happy to talk you through it. Also, happy to answer any other questions on using your metal lathe for pen making (tooling, cutters, etc.).

By the way, what model lathe are you using?

Danny


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mathewsmith

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Another word of caution if you are using a file ... don't let the file contact your bushings (if you are still using bushings) and don't let the vile file contact your dead or live centers if you are "turning between centers" (a highly recommended method).

"turning between centers" is a new term for me, I looked it up, I think it will give more accuracy with turning. I mostly like turning bespoke pens- can i turn between centers for turning bespoke pens as well?
 

mathewsmith

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The duplicator/tracer works better when making several of the same pen. It can greatly increase your efficiency. It also is helpful when turning metals. I do sometimes use a file when doing something simple like profiling a nose cone for a Kitless click pen. There is some setup time when using the pattern. It will, however, reduce sanding time associated with sanding out the file marks. I built my tracer to fill a large order for 30 seam rippers. I was able to knock them out in a day. I now use it regularly for closed end kitless pens. I have a tapered curved pattern that I just use for both ends of the pen so the profiles match.

If you decide to give it a try, I'd be happy to talk you through it. Also, happy to answer any other questions on using your metal lathe for pen making (tooling, cutters, etc.).

By the way, what model lathe are you using?

Danny


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I would love to know how the tracer/duplicator works. But for that a template would be required as well I think, do you just 3d print them or just make them out of metal? Thanks for the kind support though. I PM'ed you as well.

I am using this bench metal lathe currently : https://www.pathak.in/product/bench-lathe-machine/
 

magpens

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@mathewsmith

"I am using this bench metal lathe currently : https://www.pathak.in/product/bench-lathe-machine/"

That appears to be a Sieg 7" x 12" lathe. . Sieg is a sort of "generic" name. . Sold by many vendors under different brand names.

You can recognize it, often, by the overall styling and specs. . A good lathe for the amateur with lots of accessories available from several sources including .... www.LittleMachineShop.com .... a company that I recommend you familiarize yourself with.
 

magpens

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@mathewsmith

" "turning between centers" is a new term for me, I looked it up, I think it will give more accuracy with turning. I mostly like turning bespoke pens- can i turn between centers for turning bespoke pens as well? "

Answer :- Yes you can. . You should get familiar with "turning between centers" and make the transition to that technique.

It is not difficult. . You will need a good set of digital calipers to make the measurements on your pen blanks as you turn them to the desired size. . You don't really need any bushings. . However, there are "turning between centers" bushings, or TBC bushings, which some folks will recommend but I don't use any bushings at all.
 

magpens

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@mathewsmith

A lot will fall into place once you get into the hobby activities that you choose to pursue.

You will find out what it is you want to do, you will start listening and talking in new ways, you will get exposed to things in new lights, and the terminology will become clearer.

Be sure to ask questions ... what does this mean ... what do I use that for ... how do I do this-that-and-the-other thing.

Spend time in these forums and read whatever strikes your fancy .... and .... ask questions.

And as soon as you start doing things, more and more questions will come to mind, and you yourself will soon start generating answers to your own questions ... and ... eventually ... to some questions that others ask.
 

RobS

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Hello everyone, I recently bought a metal lathe upgrading from my woodworking lathe. As being an amateur hobbyist woodturner, it is quite fun to shape wooden things and I love those handmade curves especially. Now after moving on to the metal lathe, I am enjoying using this as well, but whenever I turn pens they do come out to be mostly boring straight shaped. I can add some organic curves using my handheld tools, but is it possible to do curves on a metal lathe using the carriage only? I am newbie in using metal lathes and still learning everyday how to use it better; any links or any help is very appreciated! Thank you in advance!
Thinking it over. Do you still have your wood lathe?
If so, you can make all your bore, tenons, threads, etc on the metal lathe.
You can also turn the outer diameters close to what you want.
You then move over to the wood lathe and add organic contours.
 

magpens

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I am going to take my own advice and ask a question ..... LOL !! o_O🤪

What's meant by the term "organic curves" or "organic contours" ? . ( those terms are used in Post #1 and in Post #20 )
 

RobS

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I am going to take my own advice and ask a question ..... LOL !! o_O🤪

What's meant by the term "organic curves" or "organic contours" ? . ( those terms are used in Post #1 and in Post #20 )
Organic as in nature, so its not straight, it has a curve of your own freehand creation.
 

More4dan

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I make my patterns from aluminum Flat bar shaped on a sander. Any material should work, 3D printing sounds promising. I have since added a small bearing to the tracing stylus to move smoothly along the pattern.

Danny
 

skiprat

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Please don't be scared to use humble hand tools like files, sand paper and elbow grease.
Many of my stainless steel pens have had more time under a file than trying to shape with a fixed tool post cutter.
I'm particularly proud of this one from a few years ago.
 
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