Turning between centers question

[Rob H]

I just did my first TBC pen and it seems to work much better for me. Since I'm a newbie I am still doing the cheaper slimline 2 tube pens, my question is, after turning one do you finish 1 and then load the other and repeat, or do you turn them both and then put them on a normal mandrel and finish them at the same time?

 

[hewunch]

I finish 1 barrel at a time. Helps with not a ding through my finish, or getting out of round.

 

[jttheclockman]

Start to finish one at a time.

 

[Monty]

For me it depends on the finish. When I do a CA finish I like to let it cure over night. A lacquer or poly finish should also be allowed to cure before polishing.
A friction polish can be done right away.

 

[Woodchipper]

I finish both barrels at a time. Hindsight: I should have bought another pen mandrel instead of the long one. I do check for out-of-round with calipers by doing both at one time. CA: cure overnight as mentioned.

 

[Paul-H]

Is there any advantage turning between centers instead of using a pen mandrel.

 

[GaryMGg]

Yes; almost always increased accuracy which improves fit.

 

[derekdd]

Is there any advantage turning between centers instead of using a pen mandrel.

You don't get the flex from a mandrel so your turning is going to be more accurate.

I've not done it before but am tempted to on single barrel pens like Sierras.

 

[egnald]

Is there any advantage turning between centers instead of using a pen mandrel.

As with all tooling sets there are advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages are improved concentricity. One disadvantage is that you can only turn 1 blank at a time -- not a problem if you are making single tube types, but for pens with two tubes it can be a little more cumbersome, not with turning so much as with applying finishes.

Personally, I turn between centers occasionally, but I usually use a mandrel. However, I have combined bits and pieces from different adjustable mandrels, with "D" Drill Rod for the mandrel shaft, and I use a collet based mandrel saver which all help keep the mandrel straight and true. Also, there are lots of ways of turning between centers, some use special adapters, others use special pen bushings, and some simply use no bushings and truly turn between centers using only 60-degree live and dead centers and a measuring type caliper.

Eventually what it comes down to is your personal success rate with tooling and a method and the skill level you learn while using them. There are some great resources in the IAP library that you might want to review.

No Bushings Pen Turning by Wayne Racinowski, the IAP Library Manager
Dead Centers - Making and Using by Hank Lee
Another Way of Making a Pen by George Butcher
Bottle Stopper, Pen, Project and Ring Turning Mandrels also by Wayne

And there are several threads that may also provide you with some valuable insight.

TBC Converter Bushings Original Poster is Todd Hawbaker (Todd in PA)
Caliper Measurement Technique Original Poster is Jon Rista (jrista)
TBC Bushings Original Poster is David Fritz (montmill)
Turning Between Centers - PSI TBC Mandrel Original Poster is William Herzig (builtbybill)

I'm sure there are many others, but these are just some that came to the top of a quick search I did.

Regards,
Dave

 

[Jans husband]

Turning between centres is a lot more accurate in my experience because of the shorter distance between the centres
I also find accurate digital callipers are more reliable than bushes which may be worn down a bit
Try both methods and use whichever method suits you
Mike

 

[Muddydogs]

I turn between centers using the pen bushings and 60 degree centers. I know guys will tell you that the bushings center hole might not be drilled accurate but in 30 bushing sets I haven't found an off bushing yet. Once turned I remove the bushings and place the blank between centers with light pressure for the CA application, I may or may not return the blank to the bushings for final sand and polish.
I do have a set of between center bushing adapters that I sometimes use for 7mm tubes.
I use the pen bushings so I don't have to measure the blank as I turn it down. If I happen to cut into a bushing enough to reduce it's size I replace it but after the first 10 or so pens I figured out how not to hit the bushing while working the ends of the blank.
With the Penn State 4 pack of pens that come with a set of bushings I could use to damage a few not to mention all the 7mm bushing that came with one bulk purchase or the other.

 

[sorcerertd]

I 100% turn between centers. After trying a couple mandrels, I just wasn't happy with the concentricity. Granted, I did not try one of the fancy, expensive mandrels, and there are other factors that affect concentricity, but it was cheaper to not buy another mandrel at all. I still use my adjustable mandrel to hold pen barrels while buffing them.

I bought a set of adapter bushings. I use them to get down close to the bushings, then put the tubes directly on the centers and measure the rest with some calipers (cheap calipers even). That being said, I do it exactly as John stated.

Start to finish one at a time.

One thing to note, if you don't get the ends perfectly squared, your outer barrel thickness will not be concentric with the tube no matter how you turn it.

 

[Todd in PA]

I use the TBC mandrel to get close.
Then do the last tenth directly between 30 degree centers.
Then I put two barrels on a mandrel saver with plastic bushings to apply and micromesh the CA.

 

[KenB259]

I use the pen bushings so I don't have to measure the blank as I turn it down.

This is definitely misinformation. Pen components vary in size, so do bushings.

 

[Muddydogs]

This is definitely misinformation. Pen components vary in size, so do bushings.

Say what? What does me using pen bushing to turn between centers because I don't want to measure the blank as I turn it down have to do with whatever you're worried about?
Why do you think we use pen bushing or measure the blank when turning it down?

 

[KenB259]

Say what? What does me using pen bushing to turn between centers because I don't want to measure the blank as I turn it down have to do with whatever you're worried about?
Why do you think we use pen bushing or measure the blank when turning it down?

Pen bushings are to get close to size, not finish to finish size. This is pretty well accepted,and to be clear I'm not worried about anything. You seem to have made it your mission to point out misinformation. What's the matter, can dish it out but not take it?

 

[Muddydogs]

O I can take it when it's warranted but here again your spouting bad info. Pen bushings can be used to take a pen to finished size if they measure the right size. I don't have a problem turning a perfectly sized pen when turning to the bushings and seems like most of YouTube turn to the bushings as well. Key here is to measure new bushings and remeasure bushings every so often to make sure there still the right size after some use.

I guess you'll have to keep an eye on my posts and try to find something else to gotcha me on.

 

[KenB259]

O I can take it when it's warranted but here again your spouting bad info. Pen bushings can be used to take a pen to finished size if they measure the right size. I don't have a problem turning a perfectly sized pen when turning to the bushings and seems like most of YouTube turn to the bushings as well. Key here is to measure new bushings and remeasure bushings every so often to make sure there still the right size after some use.

I guess you'll have to keep an eye on my posts and try to find something else to gotcha me on.

Nah, you made it to my ignore list. Ignorance is bliss You must live a very blissful life. Good bye

 

[leehljp]

O I can take it when it's warranted but here again your spouting bad info. Pen bushings can be used to take a pen to finished size if they measure the right size. I don't have a problem turning a perfectly sized pen when turning to the bushings and seems like most of YouTube turn to the bushings as well. Key here is to measure new bushings and remeasure bushings every so often to make sure there still the right size after some use.

I guess you'll have to keep an eye on my posts and try to find something else to gotcha me on.

This being "Misinformation" is correct. (using your term) Turning to bushing size is not for the majority because of human habit. Turn to bushing size and sand it; turn to bushing size and just barely nick the bushing - actually, most people don't even feel the tool touch the bushing as the blank is turned to size, but it happens quite often. By this time this is done with 2 dozen pens, the bushing is not the correct size anymore - where the busing meets the turned blank.

Going back 15 - 16 years on this forum, it has been said that bushings are "consumables" because they get nicked or sanded down half a millimeter or even 1 mm, or 1/64" or 1/32". Then either get new bushings or use calipers to measure for precision turning.

While you mentioned earlier that all of your bushings are centered well, commercial manufacturers on occasion send out a bad batch. I haven't heard of this in recent memory, but I do have a couple that I have had 14 -15 years that are visibly off center.

It is good practice to use calipers if one is producing higher end pens that begin in the $250 and higher range. People who buy a $500 - $1000 pens and higher - are going to feel if there is a transition "feel" at the joints. The hand can feel as little as 1/1000 and high priced pens get that kind of scrutiny. So, why not start off learning to make the nominal/low end pens the same way. It doesn't take more 2 minutes longer per pen to measure that correctly, and in the end, there will be perfect fittings.

 

[leehljp]

I just did my first TBC pen and it seems to work much better for me. Since I'm a newbie I am still doing the cheaper slimline 2 tube pens, my question is, after turning one do you finish 1 and then load the other and repeat, or do you turn them both and then put them on a normal mandrel and finish them at the same time?

Hey Rob. Glad to have you aboard. As to "one at a time", or "two at a time", some do like to see both simultaneously being finished. One at a time on TBC, if that is what you like - does give one specific advantage to finishing. IF finished between centers, there is a bigger transition from the blank (that has been finished in its "turning") to the center. When finishing with Bushings ON, the bushings often get glued to the blank. Usually snapping the blank loose works fine. But in some cases, small chunks of CA finish is snapped off the end of the blank, or, a small section of finish on the blank will lift up from the blank an leave it cloudy looking.

This usually happens with CA and more often with oily resined blanks. I had this problem with ebony persimmon wood (very oily). With a suggestion from two other guys on this forum, I made the transition to TBC. It solved the problem, since I did not have to break the CA covered bushing from the blank.

 

[jttheclockman]

Hank covered both aspects of this thread and the path it took. How you finish the blanks is irrelevant and what works best for you is your go to method. There are no right and wrong ways of doing this. I prefer to turn and finish one blank at a time because I am never in a rush. Turning with bushings to final dimensions is always a risky proposition because no bushing set can always match each and every kit components because of finish or plating. Also as Hank said sanding and nicking a bushing when turning throws those measurements off right away. I just did a couple Sierra kits this weekend and used brand new bushings and when I measured components and bushings they were not the same as usual. I only use bushings as a guide to get me close and always finish turning using a set of calipers. I could care less if I nick or sand bushings and never throw them away. They are just guides. I believe newbies should get in the habit of doing this also because it will help creating that perfect fit and finish to your pens no matter what price you sell them at they all are a mark of your work.

 

[Rob H]

Hank covered both aspects of this thread and the path it took. How you finish the blanks is irrelevant and what works best for you is your go to method. There are no right and wrong ways of doing this. I prefer to turn and finish one blank at a time because I am never in a rush. Turning with bushings to final dimensions is always a risky proposition because no bushing set can always match each and every kit components because of finish or plating. Also as Hank said sanding and nicking a bushing when turning throws those measurements off right away. I just did a couple Sierra kits this weekend and used brand new bushings and when I measured components and bushings they were not the same as usual. I only use bushings as a guide to get me close and always finish turning using a set of calipers. I could care less if I nick or sand bushings and never throw them away. They are just guides. I believe newbies should get in the habit of doing this also because it will help creating that perfect fit and finish to your pens no matter what price you sell them at they all are a mark of your work.

I'm still using bushings because I bought one of these:

 

[jttheclockman]

I'm still using bushings because I bought one of these:

View attachment 359027

That is fine Rob, but my point and believe what Hank was saying do not trust the the bushings. They are truely unreliable. They will get you close but if you want to really become a good pen turner where your work is top notch you will fit your blanks to the pen components using a good set of calipers. It is just the best way to make sure things fit well. Now if you look at your pens when done and are satisfied with the way they look then nothing I say will change that. good luck.

 

[leehljp]

I use bushings to get the blank round and close to size, and then take the bushing off to finish - measuring with calipers. Then finish without bushings on. The eliminates the bushings sticking to the blank with CA or other finish.

Mandrel and Custom bushings

Mandrel and custom bushings can both be used on TBC

www.penturners.org

Use with and without bushings between centers.

 

[Rob H]

That is fine Rob, but my point and believe what Hank was saying do not trust the the bushings. They are truely unreliable. They will get you close but if you want to really become a good pen turner where your work is top notch you will fit your blanks to the pen components using a good set of calipers. It is just the best way to make sure things fit well. Now if you look at your pens when done and are satisfied with the way they look then nothing I say will change that. good luck.

I have probably already sanded my bushings so they can't be accurate. So many things to learn =) and since I use carbide tools I bet those things have probably taken material off the bushings due to my poor tool control. All in all I'm having a blast with this hobby, I just need to win the lottery so I can afford it.

 

[leehljp]

I have probably already sanded my bushings so they can't be accurate. So many things to learn =) and since I use carbide tools I bet those things have probably taken material off the bushings due to my poor tool control. All in all I'm having a blast with this hobby, I just need to win the lottery so I can afford it.

Rob, Thanks for posting the pict of the "TBC" centers from PSI (I think).

This brings up a whole new different way of helping people. For 15 years, TBC was considered between centers with the two pointed end centers - as on the edge of my pict above in post #24. (OR See the original TBC at the end of this post.) These was the original TBC method. PSI and maybe another company only recently introduced a different set of TBC options, such as what you have. Your TBC requires bushings all the way from beginning to end, which is totally the opposite purpose of the original TBC - to be able to apply finish on the lathe without using bushings.

Bushings work fine for many people and those with tremendous experience know how to overcome bushing problems with ease. But that takes experience and problem solving. But for the inexperienced (and even some with experience), bushings can cause problems at different stages - if it is out of round, or as most commercial bushings do - are just a little bit loose - can cause problems with perfect roundness. Bushings also stick to the blank when finishing and break off the finish from the blank in some instances, which requires a RE-finishing.

This Thread will modify the experienced TBC users to change their responses in the future.
Now, we should ask - What kind of TBC are you using? (which will confuse the new guy or lady). TBC isn't just TBC when trouble shooting anymore.
Then we should ask, Does your TBC require bushings from beginning to end? (The original and long past TBC did not require bushings),
OR, show us a pict of the user's TBC setup.

The original purpose of TBC was on IAP back in 2008 was to be able to apply finish (CA) onto a blank without using bushings. OF course there were/are other benefits to TBC, in addition to NOT using bushings for finishing. But with PSI's type of TBC, Bushings must be used.

The Original TBC on IAP with a home made drive center (Aug. 2008):

Imported Photo from leehljp

Imported Photo from leehljp. Please edit title and description.

www.penturners.org

PSI's "new" TBC is a recent invention. For this reason, there may be confusion in the explanations that people give, especially the seasoned and experienced ones.

This thread will help me, at least, in knowing how to respond to others request for TBC help. Thank you for this thread!

 

[jttheclockman]

Rob, Thanks for posting the pict of the "TBC" centers from PSI (I think).

This brings up a whole new different way of helping people. For 15 years, TBC was considered between centers with the two pointed end centers - as on the edge of my pict above in post #24. (OR See the original TBC at the end of this post.) These was the original TBC method. PSI and maybe another company only recently introduced a different set of TBC options, such as what you have. Your TBC requires bushings all the way from beginning to end, which is totally the opposite purpose of the original TBC - to be able to apply finish on the lathe without using bushings.

Bushings work fine for many people and those with tremendous experience know how to overcome bushing problems with ease. But that takes experience and problem solving. But for the inexperienced (and even some with experience), bushings can cause problems at different stages - if it is out of round, or as most commercial bushings do - are just a little bit loose - can cause problems with perfect roundness. Bushings also stick to the blank when finishing and break off the finish from the blank in some instances, which requires a RE-finishing.

This Thread will modify the experienced TBC users to change their responses in the future.
Now, we should ask - What kind of TBC are you using? (which will confuse the new guy or lady). TBC isn't just TBC when trouble shooting anymore.
Then we should ask, Does your TBC require bushings from beginning to end? (The original and long past TBC did not require bushings),
OR, show us a pict of the user's TBC setup.

The original purpose of TBC was on IAP back in 2008 was to be able to apply finish (CA) onto a blank without using bushings. OF course there were/are other benefits to TBC, in addition to NOT using bushings for finishing. But with PSI's type of TBC, Bushings must be used.

The Original TBC on IAP with a home made drive center (Aug. 2008):

Imported Photo from leehljp

Imported Photo from leehljp. Please edit title and description.

www.penturners.org

PSI's "new" TBC is a recent invention. For this reason, there may be confusion in the explanations that people give, especially the seasoned and experienced ones.

This thread will help me, at least, in knowing how to respond to others request for TBC help. Thank you for this thread!

That device is not going to change my response when this question comes at all. That device is just another way to hold BUSHINGS. A bushing is a bushing. It still becomes distorted when hit with a tool or sandpaper and still is not dimensioned to every kit made. just not possible. I have a bunch of turn between centers bushings that I never used. Got caught up in the hype here some years ago when someone was selling them. Went on to use a method that works for me and that is the key. Find a method that you are comfortable with and can produce a good product and stick with it. I finish with cone shape devices between centers. I finish turning with bushings on a standard mandrel but do not rely on them for final measurements. They are a guide and a way to hold blank. I mentioned this before here I purposely hit my new bushings with a tool to get them turned down some so they are not in the way as I zero in on final measurements. just another method. No right or wrong way.

 

[leehljp]

John. I agree with your post. However, I realized with Rob's post, that this new group of people do not know what real TBC is. TBC to their understanding will be a different way to use bushings - instead NOT using bushings for the whole process. Kind of like speaking to an Aussie and he or she says they will give me a 'tinkle' when they need help.

With TBC, Same language/words but different meanings altogether!

 

[KenB259]

John. I agree with your post. However, I realized with Rob's post, that this new group of people do not know what real TBC is. TBC to their understanding will be a different way to use bushings - instead NOT using bushings for the whole process. Kind of like speaking to an Aussie and he or she says they will give me a 'tinkle' when they need help.

With TBC, Same language/words but different meanings altogether!

Then you have TBC bushings to complicate a little further

 

[KenB259]

I'm still using bushings because I bought one of these:

View attachment 359027

These are what I use also, just to get close to size, when I have bushings on. They work well and I like them. I turn to finish size with a dead and live center, no bushings. I also made some finishing cones that fit these and it's one of the ways I apply a CA finish.

 

[egnald]

I have probably already sanded my bushings so they can't be accurate. So many things to learn =) and since I use carbide tools I bet those things have probably taken material off the bushings due to my poor tool control. All in all I'm having a blast with this hobby, I just need to win the lottery so I can afford it.

Rob, just because of an unintentional touch of a tool to the bushing or from sanding doesn't necessarily mean that the bushings can't still be within the recommended tolerance guidelines.

According to Penn State Industries Bushing Book, on the very first page it states that bushing diameters will have slight variations for tolerances and for wear from use. They recommend that bushings be checked and that if they vary more than 0.005" from the specified diameter that they be replaced.

At the same time, the drawings of most of PSI's bushings indicate an optimal dimension with a +/- 0.002" tolerance. My interpretation of their recommendation would be that the bushings should be replaced if they vary more than 0.005" below the optimal dimension as wear from use should make the bushings smaller and not larger. Anyhow, that's the rule of thumb that I've been following and it seems to be working ok - for me anyway.

Dave

PS You can find PSI's Bushing Book here: Penn State Industries Bushing Book, or reference the outstanding IAP Complete Suppliers Bushings and Tubes chart in the Resources section.

 

[Rob H]

Rob, Thanks for posting the pict of the "TBC" centers from PSI (I think).

This brings up a whole new different way of helping people. For 15 years, TBC was considered between centers with the two pointed end centers - as on the edge of my pict above in post #24. (OR See the original TBC at the end of this post.) These was the original TBC method. PSI and maybe another company only recently introduced a different set of TBC options, such as what you have. Your TBC requires bushings all the way from beginning to end, which is totally the opposite purpose of the original TBC - to be able to apply finish on the lathe without using bushings.

Bushings work fine for many people and those with tremendous experience know how to overcome bushing problems with ease. But that takes experience and problem solving. But for the inexperienced (and even some with experience), bushings can cause problems at different stages - if it is out of round, or as most commercial bushings do - are just a little bit loose - can cause problems with perfect roundness. Bushings also stick to the blank when finishing and break off the finish from the blank in some instances, which requires a RE-finishing.

This Thread will modify the experienced TBC users to change their responses in the future.
Now, we should ask - What kind of TBC are you using? (which will confuse the new guy or lady). TBC isn't just TBC when trouble shooting anymore.
Then we should ask, Does your TBC require bushings from beginning to end? (The original and long past TBC did not require bushings),
OR, show us a pict of the user's TBC setup.

The original purpose of TBC was on IAP back in 2008 was to be able to apply finish (CA) onto a blank without using bushings. OF course there were/are other benefits to TBC, in addition to NOT using bushings for finishing. But with PSI's type of TBC, Bushings must be used.

The Original TBC on IAP with a home made drive center (Aug. 2008):

Imported Photo from leehljp

Imported Photo from leehljp. Please edit title and description.

www.penturners.org

PSI's "new" TBC is a recent invention. For this reason, there may be confusion in the explanations that people give, especially the seasoned and experienced ones.

This thread will help me, at least, in knowing how to respond to others request for TBC help. Thank you for this thread!

Sorry for the confusion it is sold as a TBC mandrel so I went with that, guess if I said mandrel in there before you would have known. I think I may try the TBC adapter bushings but I've only been doing this for a couple months and wouldn't be comfortable just doing it without bushings of any kind, maybe in the future right now I'm only buying clearance blanks and pen kits because I wouldn't want a blowout on $25 blank. Man is this hobby expensive.

 

[Todd in PA]

Rob, In my personal experience the TBC mandrel you already have produced FAR better results than the TBC adapter bushings. Unless your getting bad results, aka out of round issues, I would spend your money on kits and blanks to hone your skill on.

 

[KenB259]

Sorry for the confusion it is sold as a TBC mandrel so I went with that, guess if I said mandrel in there before you would have known. I think I may try the TBC adapter bushings but I've only been doing this for a couple months and wouldn't be comfortable just doing it without bushings of any kind, maybe in the future right now I'm only buying clearance blanks and pen kits because I wouldn't want a blowout on $25 blank. Man is this hobby expensive.

I've tried the TBC adapter bushings, my opinion, they are not usable. I got horrible results. Mine went in the trash. Just my experience.

 

[egnald]

I had the same experience as Ken (KenB259) with TBC adapter bushings like these TBC Bushings Adapters from PTownSubbie. I also have a set of the PSI Turn Between Centers Mandrel System, but I don't use them for TBC on pens. I have found other uses though and make HDPE ends for jam chucks and stuff when unique turning situations arise. - Dave

 

[RunnerVince]

First, I'll echo the sentiment that if your current process works for you and the customers/recipients of your pens, then keep it up. Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

I'm weighing in as someone who has traveled the whole road from mandrel w/ bushings to TBC mandrel w/ bushings to "true" TBC. I was having so many problems with nonconcentricity that it drove the purchase of a new lathe, which turned out to not be the issue. I'm still glad I got the new lathe for many other reasons, but it was not the issue. I tried so many other things, from improving my sanding technique, trying many different sanding/polishing solutions, improving tool technique, replacing bushings frequently, trying new pen kit vendors, etc. Some things helped with nonconcentricity, but nothing eliminated it until I went to true TBC.

Having tried so many things, I can say from my own experience that the issue really came down to bushings. Whatever else I tried, the issue didn't go away. When I finally removed the bushings from the final turning and finishing steps (after much "weeping, wailing, and gnashing of teeth"), the problem went away almost overnight. I still occassionaly introduce nonconcentricity due to impatience and improper sanding (or perhaps some kits themselves aren't as perfect as we'd like them to be?), but 95% of my pens now are concentric and have a better fit than I ever got with bushings. Once again, that's my experience, but I drank a lot of "this will fix all your problems" Kool-Aid in my journey, all the while ignoring advice from people on this forum that "true" TBC was the way to go, and when I finally broke down and listened, lo and behold, I saw immediate and drastic improvement.

As a result, I mostly don't use bushings at all any more. If I do have the bushings for a kit, I'll use them on my mandrel to get close to final dimension. But if I buy a new kit, I don't spend the money for the bushings unless they come as part of a bulk deal.

I think about this a lot: Are all the people who've had good experiences with bushings lucky, are they just better turners than me, or do they just have a different standard than I do? Probably a mix of all three. But I'm confident saying that for anyone who is new to penturning or is thinking about getting into it, it will save you a lot of time and a lot of money going straight to true TBC. Your results at the very least will not be any worse, and I'd wager the cost of a good set of 60-degree centers that you'll see improvements.

There's no doubt that TBC is intimidating compared to turning with bushings on some sort of mandrel. It does require a level of tool control that takes time to learn. That said, you can make a LOT of practice blanks with $5 worth of wood from the scrap bin at your local hardwood dealer (shout out to MacBeath's in SLC and CSUSA in Provo, UT), and you don't have to "waste" kits or tubes making practice blanks.

If you are on the fence with TBC, my "what I wish I'd known when I started" advice is to move past the intimidation, spend the relatively modest amount of money on 60-degree centers and calipers, and take the plunge.

 

[Todd in PA]

... Your results at the very least will not be any worse, and I'd wager the cost of a good set of 60-degree centers that you'll see improvements.

I'm on my third set of centers, and about to replace them. The brass tubes seem to carve little rings in the surface after not too long, even with my sad attempt to use blue tape to protect them.

What are some good centers you would recommend?

 

[jrista]

I just did my first TBC pen and it seems to work much better for me. Since I'm a newbie I am still doing the cheaper slimline 2 tube pens, my question is, after turning one do you finish 1 and then load the other and repeat, or do you turn them both and then put them on a normal mandrel and finish them at the same time?

I tend to do many pens at a time, sometimes batches of similar design. So, in my case, I will often turn every tube to size and shape first, one at a time, TBC...and "rack" them (I've built myself a few different racks to put pen blanks on). I keep them ordered, keep the two halves together at all times (and will usually try to mark the insides of each tube with alignment lines...and counts, so 1 mark to 1 mark, 2 marks to 2 marks, etc.) So I'll rip through turning a batch, rack all the pairs. Then I'll go through, and sand each segment, and rack em again. Then I'll go through and do my finishing rounds. With my current procedure, its wet sanding through the final grits with drs walnut oil, then racking to dry, then a little while later wiping off the excess after letting it soak in. Maybe a second round of walnut oil only, and again racking to dry, wiping off the excess. And finally, a round or few of applying Pens Plus, racking to dry/cure, and then maybe repeat to clean up any issues.

The main reason I do this, is so I can focus on one task at a time...at least, if I'm doing a batch (vs. just one pen at a time). So I can just focus on tooling, 5, 10 kits at a time. Then I can just focus on sanding, then prelim finish, then final finish.

If I was really crafting an individual pen, I might approach it differently. Especially with resins, too, I'd probably take a single blank all the way through the entire process, from turning to sanding to final polishing and buffing. Before moving on to the next.

 

[RunnerVince]

I'm on my third set of centers, and about to replace them. The brass tubes seem to carve little rings in the surface after not too long, even with my sad attempt to use blue tape to protect them.

What are some good centers you would recommend?

If your centers are soft enough steel that brass tubes and a little pressure are marking them, then I'd recommend just "dressing" them with a fine file or sandpaper to get rid of the rings. If won't affect anything pen-related if you slightly modify the 60-degree included angle.

I've done that with no negative effect on my finished pens.

As for more durable centers, I'm afraid I can't comment. I'm still on my first set. I've "dressed" the live center multiple times, and I've done the same once or twice on the dead center.

 

[leehljp]

While just a few years ago, there were solid carbide dead centers (IIRC) but I can't find any now. The only one with a large carbide tip is on Amazon and it is somewhat pricey: $75+

https://www.amazon.com/Center-08016-Oversized-Carbide-Morse/dp/B008B83GIG/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=CECLTAVJKNYU&keywords=wood+lathe+carbide+dead+center&qid=1693260694&s=industrial&sprefix=wood+lathe+carbide+dead+center%2Cindustrial%2C108&sr=1-3-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1