turing multipal barrles between centers?

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programmergeek

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I want to turn between centers but have a bunch of cigars to knock out for christmass, I find doing both the frount and back at the same time is just faster for me, especally on the finishing. Can you turn multipal barrles between centers I can turn a connector to connect the bushings together on my metal lathe if needed.
 
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Chances are you'd get quite a bit of runout, unless you made thew connector pretty long and then why not just use the mandrel and make some new bushings??
 
If you have the cigar bushings that use a single two step bushing in the middle,
I'm sure that could work. But the bushings would need to fit tight to avoid the
runout that Ken mentioned. I don't remember how tight those bushings are or
which cigar kit they fit.

If you're on a metal lathe, perhaps you could make your own two step bushing
and keep the tolerance very close?
 
Turning between centers is a precision operation..if you want speed use a mandrel...if you want less variables and more precision, go between centers....
 
What Mickr said. I do think you will be disappointed and have too much movement doing the way you asked.

There is not that much time difference in doing one at a time on TBC versus two at a time on an mandrel. The point is a "fit and finish" more than 20 to 30 seconds saved.
 
I can't turn between centers yet cause i lack the stuff. But i still turn only one tube at a time on my mandrel. It is WAY more accurate even on the mandrel when it is shortened.
 
RAdams said:
I can't turn between centers yet cause i lack the stuff. But i still turn only one tube at a time on my mandrel. It is WAY more accurate even on the mandrel when it is shortened.
Click to expand...

Any thing you can do to shorten the length of the part your turning will also reduce the run out,
At least on a metal lathe you can align the tail stock, most wood lathes don't offer that feature, when I first started I made some of my stock bushings into BTC bushings, I used a # 6 center drill and drilled the ends to accept a 60 degree center, (then I got off my lazy butt and made some real ones) I noticed that most of the stock bushings had .002-.004 indicated run out from the mandrel hole. My new ones for my Jr's and Emperors don't Heh Heh, nice having access to a Haas CNC lathe.
 
RAdams said:
I can't turn between centers yet cause i lack the stuff. But i still turn only one tube at a time on my mandrel. It is WAY more accurate even on the mandrel when it is shortened.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am with you. Whenever I turn two blanks on the mandrel the rightmost one is always vibrating a little bit. The skew does not cut as well either.

And folks, think about it. When you are turning two blanks at a time, while you are turning one blank the other one is just spinning there, idle. So the only time you are losing is the time it takes to switch out. Not that much time when you think about it and I suspect next to nothing with TBC.

Now finishing is a different story. I prefer to finish both blanks at once since there are gains in applying CA to both blanks and waiting for it to cure. But by this stage I am already turned down to size and there doesn't seem to be any drawbacks to doing both on the mandrel with Johnny's delrin blanks, but I am always open to new and better ways.
 
I'm thinking you will split out the blank before you can get enough holding power to hold the blanks at the center bushing.maybe a short mandrel that is just long enough to reach from one end of the barrels to the other that then is mounted between centers. but by the time you do that you might as well just turn on a mandrel period. The problem I see with turning on a mandrel at the very least is that the slop between bushing and mandrel comes into play. at worst the mandrel gets bent etc.
 
Turn between centers but take the blanks and put them on a mandrel for finishing. I make several mandrels so i can have several pens going at once. Since you have a metal lathe you can turn bushings out of delrin or brass that will fit a 1/4 all thread rod, that keeps your finish from sticking to things it shouldnt. I drill a 2x4 and set the mandrels in it to help keep track of them, gives the blanks a place to dry or stack as you go through all the steps.
 
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