True oil as a pen finish?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
On the first coat, let the Tru-Oil soak in real good, wet sand with your highest grit. The wet sanding will help to fill in any pores. The time frame between coats depends on temperature, humidity and how fresh the Tru-Oil is. I usually wait at least 24 hours, we have low humidity and temps are either mild or HOT.

For a good set of instructions look up Frank Whiton gunstock finish. There are a couple of them on the Internet, in my opinion are worth reading even if you do not use an oil finish.
 
On the first coat, let the Tru-Oil soak in real good, wet sand with your highest grit. The wet sanding will help to fill in any pores. The time frame between coats depends on temperature, humidity and how fresh the Tru-Oil is. I usually wait at least 24 hours, we have low humidity and temps are either mild or HOT.

For a good set of instructions look up Frank Whiton gunstock finish. There are a couple of them on the Internet, in my opinion are worth reading even if you do not use an oil finish.

Bingo it is how I do it.
 
Not to step into the hot end of the debate -- but there are a couple of down sides to Tru Oil.

It is amber -- and will give an amber tint to woods. As a gunstock finish on walnut and dark woods, it is very compatible. Be aware of the color if you are working with light colored woods. I like it with rosewoods and cocobolo -- and other dense oily woods.

It is easy to repair and easy to damage. Like all oil finishes, it is fairly soft compared to lacquer or a CA finish.

I use it or one of the other "stand oil" finishes on turnings, and use it with CA instead of Boiled Linseed oil. Good tool for the finish collection, but not the best for all situations.
 
Tru-Oil is a linseed oil based product so take the standard precautions for working with BLO and it's cleanup.

I used some for a straight razor I did in Bolivian Rosewood a few years back and probably built it up too much. I was able to hand rub a nice luster to it, but that quickly went away once I started getting it wet while shaving.

The others on here probably have more experience with it than I do, but that's my $.02

Love the smell of it.
 
Alternative

Agree with Ken about amber colored oils (BLO, Tung,..). When I want to pop the grain in some woods and not change to color I use Mineral Oil from the drug section. It seems thinner and may take a couple coats and that extends dry-wait time. But it does pop the grain and you can use finishes over it.

I like True Oil as a finish.

Alan
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom