Triangles, Diamonds and Squares - v 2.0

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mark james

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My first effort with this design can be found here. I mentioned that I did not care for some of the visual elements, so here is version 2.0.

I changed the basic design from a 4-sided pattern, to a 3-sided one, which increased the size of the wood in between the segmentation. This meant I could not do the 4-corner assembly, but needed a slotted blank (cutting staves eludes me).

More importantly, I changed the pattern of colors to one that, IMO is more visually appealing. I swapped out the Maple starting blank for a matching red (Cabreuva ?). Pictures of the two pens show the changes better.

The last picture is another blank mid-assembly where I used Walnut for the starting blank.

As with version 1.0, the multi-angled segments were the fussy buggers. In this pen they are a bit more apparent.

Turned, sanding sealer applied, sanded, finished with Glu Boost. I'll finish the last blank, then onto a totally new design.

Comments, critique and typical beatings are welcomed.
 

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jttheclockman

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I hope I am not speaking out of line here and if I am am I will avoid next time. But I think you have shown in the past that you are open for discussion. In my opinion I think you are trying too hard here to incorporate a different design element into the pattern with the square and it is throwing the whole concept off as well as they eye. I say this because it has grain running in a different direction and being dead center the eye goes right to it. At least mine does and it throws the pattern off. Now if you used a grainless material such as acrylic or aluminum it may lessen this. In fact if you gone away from wood and used all solid surface material may help.

If it were me I would stick with the diamond aspect and make either the two outside diamonds a tad smaller and the inside larger than those 2 or vice-versa. Or make all squares. Something just does not look right to my eye. Nice segmenting because none of that is easy. This is just one person's opinion though.
 

mark james

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Sep 6, 2012
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I hope I am not speaking out of line here and if I am am I will avoid next time. But I think you have shown in the past that you are open for discussion. In my opinion I think you are trying too hard here to incorporate a different design element into the pattern with the square and it is throwing the whole concept off as well as they eye. I say this because it has grain running in a different direction and being dead center the eye goes right to it. At least mine does and it throws the pattern off. Now if you used a grainless material such as acrylic or aluminum it may lessen this. In fact if you gone away from wood and used all solid surface material may help.

If it were me I would stick with the diamond aspect and make either the two outside diamonds a tad smaller and the inside larger than those 2 or vice-versa. Or make all squares. Something just does not look right to my eye. Nice segmenting because none of that is easy. This is just one person's opinion though.


LOL! Oops, you are entirely correct - I had not noticed that before. It would have been easy to flip the square for consistent alignment.

And yes, I did try hard to incorporate the square - it was simply a personal challenge, and to keep me out of trouble for a few weeks.

I admire those that work with metal, acrylics and other materials more than I do. I'll stick with wood, this is all just for fun and I'm enjoying it.

And yes, I'm certainly open to suggestions and discussion. The entire reason I post so many pictures is for others to take what they can, use some, modify others and make improvements. All is well.
 

MRDucks2

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Jul 17, 2017
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Bristow, IN
You are aware that I didn't care for V1 and I personally find V2 much more appalling to the eye. The broad stop of lighter wood through the lighter polygons in first one just threw me for a loop. This one is more comfortable for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 

mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
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Medina, Ohio
You are aware that I didn't care for V1 and I personally find V2 much more appalling to the eye. The broad stop of lighter wood through the lighter polygons in first one just threw me for a loop. This one is more comfortable for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

Yes, I agree and that was my attempt for v 2.0. But as we see from the discussion, others still like v 1.0. I think the last one in the series (Walnut) will also be to my liking. Then onto a different design.

But, I appreciate the discussion; gives others some thoughts for their work.
 

Angela S

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Jun 26, 2019
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Seattle
I also, like version 2 better. I feel like the polygons a better emphasized. I have a few questions.

1. How do you cut the three groves?

2. Are your thin stripes veneers?

3. If so, does the grain of the veneer run parallel or perpendicular to the pen?
 

mark james

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Messages
12,720
Location
Medina, Ohio
I also, like version 2 better. I feel like the polygons a better emphasized. I have a few questions.

1. How do you cut the three groves? "Frankie" does all the work! (My frankenstein setup). Pictures below. A 1950's metal lathe skeleton that's only purpose if life is to hold a spindle (long 7-9" pen blank) and a lathe-mounted router cuts very accurate slots of varying thicknesses with a monster indexing plate.

2. Are your thin stripes veneers? These were solid wood that I milled down to about .04" thick each. I do use veneers (solid wood as well as dyed), thick veneers (
- B & B Rare Woods: Dyed Veneers - large sheets. www..dyed-veneer.com) Typical thicknesses as well as thicker), and old hotel/credit cards for a really tight, clean appearance.


3. If so, does the grain of the veneer run parallel or perpendicular to the pen? In this case, the veneers will show both end grain and side grain. That is a disadvantage. For the end caps, I use pen blanks, drill a hole for whatever I need, cut a slice off, and then the side grain is complete around the pen. I try to avoid end grain showing.
.
 

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