Transparent Urushi on flamed satinwood

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Pierre---

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Hi all,
This is the last one from the workshop, using the "wiped lacquer" technique: I applied a layer of urushi as thin as possible, I wiped it at once until I thought there was no more left, I let it dry in a wet atmosphere for one or two days, I polished it, I repeaed the whole process eight or ten times. It sounds weird - it seems Japanese don't do things like others - but here is the result. This finish has been documented for lasting 7000 years, not really the case of CA...
C&c welcome.

IMG_0545.JPGIMG_0528.JPGIMG_0541.JPG
 
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FGarbrecht

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That's really beautiful Pierre. Was it difficult cutting the threads into the wood? Did you stabilize the blank? Is that a little diamond on the side? I assume you used raw urushi, yes? Did you have to filter it?

Sorry for all the questions, really love this pen. I was hoping to start my own experiments with urushi but have been sick and non-productive for the last week.
 

Pierre---

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I'll try not to forget one question Fred... ;)

With a router runing at 10000rpm and a sharp tool, no problem for threading wood. The cap-to-body threads are M1 double.
I have not stabilized the blank, it is dry hardwood.
The roll stop is made of satinwood topped with a mother-of-pearl cabochon, sort of a signature.
I used raw urushi, you are right, not filtered. A rather easy technique.
 

leehljp

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Your patience is showing VERY Well! That is what I enjoyed watching, their patience in making things. Every move, every cut, every stroke was deliberate, intentional, perfect and not rushed.

I'll bet it has a great feel to it.

Well done!
 

mark james

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Pierre, I have a great love for wood pens, and yours is beautiful. The profile is very appealing and your signature elements - the cabochon as well as the end inlay are excellent.

I'm enjoying your journey with these finishing techniques - very impressive and a joy to witness.

Thank you for sharing.
 

Pierre---

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Nope, it's easy. Wood can be threaded with a tap, the result is not absolutely perfect-looking but it works, and I hope nobody will have a look to my housing threads :cool:. The problem comes with the die...
 

Ironwood

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That’s impressive Pierre.
Is Urishi traditionally used on timber in Japan ? I ask, because this is the first timber pen I have seen with this finish.
 

FGarbrecht

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I'll try not to forget one question Fred... ;)

With a router runing at 10000rpm and a sharp tool, no problem for threading wood. The cap-to-body threads are M1 double.
I have not stabilized the blank, it is dry hardwood.
The roll stop is made of satinwood topped with a mother-of-pearl cabochon, sort of a signature.
I used raw urushi, you are right, not filtered. A rather easy technique.
I'm not familiar with threading using a router. Do you have a special jig for that?
 

Pierre---

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Is Urishi traditionally used on timber in Japan ?
I guess this technique is traditional, it is named Fuki-Urushi in Japan, as stated by Manu Propria. That is a way of showing off natural wood, used for soup bowls and many others wares. . Martin, guardian of the tradition, recently showed two exquisite examples here. For implementation, check this video, Urushiing starts at 12'30''. (Yes, a YT vid with no waffle do exist! :p)

Softly softly treading where you stumble until lo and behold there you are upright and completed. winners are grinners Pierre.
Sometimes your words look like poetry, absolutely non-understandable for the poor old European I am. Fortunately I can get some help. S'il-te-plaît, continue !

lacquer... it still feels like wood, not plastic.
Yeah, that is gorgeous and funny, the layers are so thin you can feel the wood, and in the mean time the warm shine of Urushi. You noticed I am in love, but objectively this is a great side of Urushi, a shine for the eye, so sweet for the hand....

I'm not familiar with threading using a router. Do you have a special jig for that?
Yes I do, this is a threaded spindle going through a bolt and ending with a chuck holding the pen. The router is locked. Got it Fred? :cool:
 
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FGarbrecht

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Yes I do, this is a threaded spindle going through a bolt and ending with a chuck holding the pen. The router is locked. Got it Fred? :cool:
[/QUOTE]

OK, I can see how this would work for an external thread. You select a bolt having the same thread dimension as what you wish to cut, and as you turn the spindle inside the bolt, the pen rotates and moves along the long axis against a small router bit. I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get a router bit inside the pen cap to do an internal thread though. I could see how you could maybe use a Dremel tool with a tiny cutting tool to do this.
 

Pierre---

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I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get a router bit inside the pen cap to do an internal thread though.
The router's axis is parallel to the main screw, not perpendicular, with a tiny L-shaped cutter, small enough to be run inside the cap or the barrel.

If you want to have the wood on the inside sealed as well you can mix ki-urushi with Acetone 1=1 and pour it in, shake and let it run out
Thanks for this great idea Martin. I applied undiluted Urushi with a Q tip, but I am not sure the whole interior is covered, can't see anything in there. I'll try your acetone mix and shake. Is one go enough?
 
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FGarbrecht

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The router's axis is parallel to the main screw, not perpendicular, with a tiny L-shaped cutter, small enough to be run inside the cap or the barrel.


Pierre,
I need to see a picture of the jig you use. This blows my mind. I'm more afraid of my routers than any other tool in the shop. I think if I tried to cut a delicate thread with a router you'd be picking wood bits from my forehead;)
 

manupropria

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The router's axis is parallel to the main screw, not perpendicular, with a tiny L-shaped cutter, small enough to be run inside the cap or the barrel.


Thanks for this great idea Martin. I applied undiluted Urushi with a Q tip, but I am not sure the whole interior is covered, can't see anything in there. I'll try your acetone mix and shake. Is one go enough?
Aceton and Ki-Urushi makes a very hard and stabile coat
 
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