Tool rest height for using a skew

[Lew]

Someone suggested in my last post that I should ask questions. Well, here goes. I'm trying to learn to use the skew. The first couple of attempts were absolute disasters, not on pen blanks but on practice pieces of wood. I got better to the point that I thought I'd try it on a pen blank. The trouble is the pen blanks are a lot smaller (3/4") than the practice wood which started around 2" and higher. At what height should I set the tool rest. A book I read says to have the tool above the workpiece. That seems illogical to me, so I have tried setting it so the cutting part of the skew is slightly higher than center. I don't know if this question makes sense, but that is probably because I don't know what the **** I'm doing.

 

[TonyL]

These are two of many excellent videos which will help you visually find the "right" answer:
Alan Lacer
Allan Batty

 

[Dehn0045]

I feel that tool rest height is mainly important for comfort and ergonomics, you can compensate for tool rest height by changing the angle of the tool. Obviously you have to be within reason, placing the tool rest directly under the work (6 o'clock position) probably isn't going to work. I find that with a skew it is more comfortable to me for the tool rest to be slightly lower than with other turning tools.

 

[ed4copies]

The height of the tool rest will vary depending on the width of your skew. You want the cut to take place slightly above center (9:30-10:30 position).

You can cut with a skew at the bottom or center of the blade, so the height of the tool rest will change, based on where you are comfortable making the cut.

Hope that helps and the videos suggested are well worth watching!!

Ed

 

[RobS]

These are two of many excellent videos which will help you visually find the "right" answer:
Alan Lacer
Allan Batty

I highly second Tony's video recommendation. I have literally watched the Alan Lacer video 6 times. I also bought his DVD.
Rounding the edge of the skew on the short side is also key.

Note these videos don't cover tool height much but they do cover a lot of what you need to know.

 

[Lew]

Thanks, everyone, for you responses. I've watched the 2 videos mentioned, but I'll watch them again (and again if need be).

 

[RobS]

Truth is I've searched and searched and what Ed said is the fundamental rule. Which means you need to adapt to the blank diameter, your skew size and shape and also adjust distance from the work. All these play a role. Which sounds like total BS I'm sure because you are probably thinking just tell me start at center, above center, ??? So I would say try above center first for a planing cut and adjust from there. But on a skinny pen that's not that far off from center. I do highly recommend practicing with the skew only for about 4 days in a row about 1hr each day to help build muscle memory and skill. Use a 1"x1" square or smaller

 

[jttheclockman]

I disagree with width of skew idea to a point. Yes it comes into play because common sense. If you have a tendency to cut in the center of skew a 3/8" skew center is going to be higher than a 1" skew. I think Sam said it best. It is not so much the height of the tool rest but how you present it to the wood within discretion. Width of skew has nothing to do with how you use it. You can use a 3/8" skew the exact same way as a 1" or larger. Where you cut on the blade of the skew will determine how you present it to the work. I am use to setting the rest about center and I adjust my cut angle making sure I am never above center. I never really look at the rest. I approximate because I constantly change from carbide to skew or other HSS tool. I can tell right away if it is too high or low by my angle of cut. Now using carbide tools is a different story because the cutting edge is so much higher because of the thickness of the tool so you are always lowering the rest below center no matter how or what angle you cut at. The biggest thing for people that need to learn the skew is to avoid the points of the tool and you will do just fine. The points will dig into the work and cause all kinds of havoc. Yes there is as many videos of different people using skews and other tools as there are for applying CA. Learn from one person and stick with it and make that your method. But when people say the height of the rest depends on where you cut on the skew can be challenged simply because you can raise or lower the tool easily without changing height of rest. Now comfort becomes a factor and muscle memory so you will learn quickly. I suggest you use wood no bigger than 1" to learn. The larger diameter log you use the more chance of getting the point stuck. My 2 cents.

 

[TonyL]

I highly second Tony's video recommendation. I have literally watched the Alan Lacer video 6 times. I also bought his DVD.
Rounding the edge of the skew on the short side is also key.

Note these videos don't cover tool height much but they do cover a lot of what you need to know.

And I find myself watching them again just to "sharpen" my skills.

 

[Penchant 4]

I highly second Tony's video recommendation. I have literally watched the Alan Lacer video 6 times. I also bought his DVD.
Rounding the edge of the skew on the short side is also key.

Note these videos don't cover tool height much but they do cover a lot of what you need to know.

Mr. Lacer teaches a week long skew workshop at Marc Adams. I have watched him turn a top that would fit easily on a dime. He used a skew that had to be 2" - 2-1/2" wide.

 

[sbwertz]

Someone suggested in my last post that I should ask questions. Well, here goes. I'm trying to learn to use the skew. The first couple of attempts were absolute disasters, not on pen blanks but on practice pieces of wood. I got better to the point that I thought I'd try it on a pen blank. The trouble is the pen blanks are a lot smaller (3/4") than the practice wood which started around 2" and higher. At what height should I set the tool rest. A book I read says to have the tool above the workpiece. That seems illogical to me, so I have tried setting it so the cutting part of the skew is slightly higher than center. I don't know if this question makes sense, but that is probably because I don't know what the **** I'm doing.

There was one called "Taming of the Skew" that helped me a lot years ago when I was starting.