Time I tried CA finish again

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yorkie

yorkie

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Mar 2, 2009
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last time I tried it the fumes almost knocked me out! :at-wits-end:

I used medium CA and applied with a paper towel and it got hot quick. My fingers kept sticking together, the paper towel kept sticking to the wood and it just didn't work.

I went back to using spray lacquer but I keep hearing CA is the best and is a very hard wearing finish. I'm looking for tips and tricks before I try again. Is it worth all the effort to learn the knack?

I understand once you've built up enough layers you can use one-step to polish it up? It's like an acrylic finish to the wood?

Help me, guys. :confused::biggrin::rolleyes:
 
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I had the same issues as you.... paper towels and CA don't work for me. Everyone has their own method, I get great results using the following tricks:

1. I start out by sanding through 12000 MM before finishing. This may be overkill, but it's what I've been doing for now. Then a gentle wipe using CA accelerator with a paper towel. This will remove the surface oil for oily woods and any remaining sanding dust. Let the accelerator evaporate for about 10 minutes to avoid instant curing issues.

2. Russ Fairfield's applicators work great for those who don't get along with paper towels. Buy a bag of synthetic quilt batting for $5 and it will make more applicators than you can use in your lifetime. Cut a strip about 1.5" wide and back it with masking tape. Then cut squares from the strip and wrap a piece of narrow masking tape (3/4" wide or so) around the middle. Now you have two exposed batting surfaces to use as an applicator and a masking tape surface to grip. The synthetic batting doesn't cause the CA to cure like a paper towel does. I think Russ reuses the same applicator for multiple coats, I get into problems trying that... so I use each "corner" of the applicator for a coat. So I get 4 coats out of one applicator.

3. 10 coats of THIN CA. I don't have luck getting a good even coat with medium or thick. I will occasionally use medium if there are voids to fill, or if I have a lot of pitting after sanding the final coat. I use about 10-12 drops to coat a two-barrel pen. And I finish both barrels at the same time, so I apply the 10-12 drops, then gently wipe on both barrels at fairly slow speed.

4. Wait at least 10 minutes in between coats if possible. Accelerator can be used to avoid this wait.

5. LIGHT sanding with 600 grit between coats to remove any roughness or stray particles from the applicators.

6. After the last coat sand with 400 grit until there are no pits (shiny low spots). If you have an abundance of pitting that does not sand out, do not continue to buff out the finish, there will be imperfections in the final result. If this happens, apply a coat of medium CA, and that should fill them. After dry, sand out the medium with 320 and 400 until you have a good smooth surface.

7. Once you are happy with the smooth surface after your last coat, wait until it is good and dry and sand with 400, 600, 2400MM, 3200MM, 3600MM, 4000MM, 6000MM, 8000MM, 12000MM. Then plastic polish of your choice.
 
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Its worth the effort to learn a CA finish. It takes a bit of time to get your own technique. Mine was a blend of methods from others. Unlike Joe above, I have had good luck with paper towels and rarely have it stick to the blank.

I use a thin strip of towel, about 1" wide. I fold this in half and then fold again on the end, yielding 4 layers of towel. I place thin CA on the towel and wipe the blank in one pass. I then use spray accelerator on the blank. I do 8 coats with this method. Try using Grubb32s method, it is very similar to mine, except I dont drip ca directly on the blanks. After ca, I wet sand thru the girts with MM, then polish.
http://www.youtube.com/grub32
I think this is the link.
Good luck.
 
Everybody has their own method that works for them, here is mine.

Sand up to 600 and rub with acetone, if the wood is oily rub with accelerator instead of acetone. I there are nicks, chips, bubbles or dents fill them with thick CA while the lathe is stopped, spray with accelerator and go back to cutting tools and resanding.

Finish between centers either with derelin bushings or just the center points. Finish one section at a time.

1. Turn the lathe to the hightest or next to highest speed.
2. Fold-roll and half sheet (on one select-a-size) of paper towel into 3/4"-1" strip.
3. With lathe spinning, hold paper towel on back side of blank, and drizzle thin CA on top. The tip of the applicator bottle should touch the spinning blank to prevent splashing.
4. Run the paper towel (which is now spot saturated with CA) back and forth across the blank 15-20 times with moderate pressure. Do not lift paper towel from blank during the application of a coat of CA.
5. Apply 5-10 more layers of thin CA in the same manner, except, before putting the paper towel on the blank, apply a very small drop of BLO to paper towel and rub it back and forth a couple times.

After the final coat of CA either use MM all the way through, or gently buff on a cotton wheel with tripoli and white diamond. Apply a coat of a good plastic polish if you care to be obsessive.

Occasionally it is necessary to sand between coats with 600 grit when the CA is streaking, drying unevenly or otherwise mis-behaving.

I only rarely use accelerator on the CA. I do not leave any time between coats, it takes less than 5 minutes to have 6-10 coats applied and ready to take to the cotton buffer or MM.

For a single section pen the total time between starting the finishing and starting assembly is about 6-8 minutes.
 
When I apply CA I use the small bags that come with the pen kits to put on the finger that is using the paper towel. Then you wont have to worry about the glue sticking to your finger.....
Brian
 
I just started using CA to finish my pens. I got the CA kit from PSI. It is working very good. There are a lot of videos on Youtub on how different people apply CA to pens. Just Google (ca finish pens youtub)
 
Nikitas said:
When I apply CA I use the small bags that come with the pen kits to put on the finger that is using the paper towel. Then you wont have to worry about the glue sticking to your finger.....
Brian
Click to expand...
Ditto.

Also, Chasper mentioned he uses a high turning speed for application. I happen to be just the opposite, I use the slowest speed possible to prevent any of the CA from being "flung" off. Just another example that when it comes to CA, to each their own.
 
I on the other hand use a fairly high speed and have had sucess with wax paper strips as a application medium..still use paper towel but have to fold it about 6 times to keep it from soaking through to my glove.
 
Stephen,

I had the same problem. I couldn't get it to work, so I gave up for a good long while and used spray lacquer and Poly to finish pens. I recently decided to give it another shot and although I'm still working out my process, the following is what I'm currently doing.

1. Sand to 800 or 1200 grit.
2. Apply three coats of thin CA. (Just quick swipes at a low speed - 1200 - 1400rpm)
3. Apply three coats of medium CA. (Again, quick swipes)
4. Sand up to 1200 grit.
5. Repeat 3 or 4 times until you get the build up you want.
6. Sand up to 2000 grit.
7. Apply Hut plastic polish at high speed.
 
Joe,
I started using your technique...I needed to ask..when you use CA accelerator between coats, do you ever get clouding of the already applied CA? Do you normally wait the ten minutes between coats?
Thank you!
Doc
 
wizard said:
Joe,
I started using your technique...I needed to ask..when you use CA accelerator between coats, do you ever get clouding of the already applied CA? Do you normally wait the ten minutes between coats?
Thank you!
Doc
Click to expand...

I normally wait if I have something else to do.... gives me an excuse to tidy up the shop. But the times I have used accelerator, I haven't had clouding.
 
I've never micro meshed after the coats of ca / blo I usually
go 7-10 coats of blo/ca then 3 coats of plastic polish.
My curiosity's up now. I'm gonna have to try it.
 
I am new to the forum, and have recently acquired a lathe. I have everything but a live center, which will arrive tomorrow.
Anyway, I have been practicing my turning and sanding to slimline dimensions, and have done pretty well - if I do say so.
So after watching Mr. Young's YouTube video (numerous times), I tried the BLO/CA tecnique. I found it very easy, and after just 4 coats, the blank that I turned (on a drive center/dead center set-up) looks awesome. Mind you, I used some scrap Poplar from my woodshop, but the grain really pops!
I am anxious to turn my first pen... it will be turned from Chestnut.
 
Chasper showed me how he finishes pens quite some time ago. That's how I finish mine, BLO-CA at 3900 rpm's. Kinda whatever works for you, as long as you like it, keep doing it.
 
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