Ti Gold / 24k Gold Mix up

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dbriski

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I have my kits separated into tackle box type containers. I think my Ti Gold kit may have gotten put in with my 24k Gold Kits. Is there any way to tell the difference? I couldn't tell by color they looked the same to me. Anyone have any idea's how to tell the difference?
 
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As is the case with many illnesses, the best treatment is prevention. Someone else here had a similar problem. I just don't understand how this could happen. The kits come in separate envelops that are labeled. Don't take out until you are making that pen.
 
Frank,

That works great until you have orders for 10-15 pens and they are all different. Then, you need the tubes and stuff happens after the tubes are removed.

It's simple to tell the difference - try to buff off the plating. If it comes off, it's 24kt. (Of course, the kit IS ruined, but now the OTHER one is the TN!!!)

YES, I have had the same problem and NO, I have NOT found a good answer. But if JimGo can tell me what KIND of light, I will sure TRY his way!
 
Originally posted by mick
<br />What Eagle said!!!
Do we need a 12 step program to stop serious pen artists from using 24K?
Click to expand...
Hey I am not "kit prejudiced"
I jsut don't take them out of the bag until I am going to assemble them.
I buy the 24 K to powder coat.
I never have been a tool snob, I aint going to be a "kit snob"
 
I'm not being a kit snob ...I just can't see selling something thats gonna wear off...unless you're going to powdercoat it. That's a whole different ballgame. I guess I should of clarified my statement.
 
The Ti Gold holds up better than 10K and 24K correct? If I am selling a pen I only offer platinum, Black Titanium or Titanium Gold.
 
In general, 24K is the worst plating option, although many people here seem to have good luck with PSI's 24K kits. 10K gold lasts a bit longer, but not enough to make it worthwhile. If you want gold, use Gold Ti. I use only Gold Ti, Black Ti, Platinum, Rhodium, Chrome and Black Chrome. I sometimes use Satin Nickel and Satin Silver, although I'm not sure about the longevity of those. I also use copper on some casing and antler pens.
 
Gerry,
The early satin silver turned "yellowish".

Have no experience for the past couple years - but have a nice selection of "yellow" ones!!!
 
Would it be too much to ask that, occassionally, someone would actually spell out "Titanium?" It's just 6 key strokes more and it's a way to be accomodating to newbies and others who are not familiar with the lingo and shorthand we use. Using these abbreviations can be off-putting to people who aren't in the "in crowd." I personally don't want people to feel like outsiders or like they are ignorant and should stand back quietly while the cool kids talk amongst themselves.

There's all that and there's also the fact that I spent MONTHS looking for a kit for a Black Tie pen thinking it was some sort of really formal special kind of pen. All that wasted time. And it was ALL YOUR FAULT!
 
OMG. Can't we just get along.

24k is the least expensive finish period, we all know that. The finish quality goes up fron there.
I just had a similer thread to this. The mechanical parts are close you pay for fit and finish and half of that is our job!
 
Originally posted by jtate
<br />Would it be too much to ask that, occassionally, someone would actually spell out "Titanium?" It's just 6 key strokes more and it's a way to be accomodating to newbies and others who are not familiar with the lingo and shorthand we use. Using these abbreviations can be off-putting to people who aren't in the "in crowd." I personally don't want people to feel like outsiders or like they are ignorant and should stand back quietly while the cool kids talk amongst themselves.

There's all that and there's also the fact that I spent MONTHS looking for a kit for a Black Tie pen thinking it was some sort of really formal special kind of pen. All that wasted time. And it was ALL YOUR FAULT!
Click to expand...
For thiose of us who do not touch type black Ti or Tn is works just fine[:D]
 
Back to the point at hand. If it was me, I'd take the kits to a pawn shop or jewlery store and let them test the kits to see which is gold. I don't know if it would work, but they test gold all the time. Is Ti Gold real gold, like 24K gold is real gold? If Ti gold is not real gold then I think their little gold tester would tell the difference. OMG, I hope that made sense.
 
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />But if JimGo can tell me what KIND of light, I will sure TRY his way!
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I have some of those screw-in fluorescent bulbs (and not the daylight kind) in my livingroom lamps, and the colors are clearly distinguishable. I'd suggest looking at them in the bathroom - I find that most people have a lot of light there, and that the bulbs usually give off a good light color for this kind of stuff.
 
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Frank,

That works great until you have orders for 10-15 pens and they are all different. Then, you need the tubes and stuff happens after the tubes are removed.

It's simple to tell the difference - try to buff off the plating. If it comes off, it's 24kt. (Of course, the kit IS ruined, but now the OTHER one is the TN!!!)

YES, I have had the same problem and NO, I have NOT found a good answer. But if JimGo can tell me what KIND of light, I will sure TRY his way!
Click to expand...

We all have our own work habits. I always have extra tubes. The first few are done with the 'spare' tubes. Then, I open the bags and remove tubes but leave all other parts inside. As I work on a pen, I have a plastic box that hangs on pegboard above my workbench. The pen at hand has it's parts in there. When that pen is done, box is empty, next pen goes in, and so on. However, I am phasing out all platings except Ti and Rhodium and soon mix-ups won't matter.
 
If you can buff off the 24k gold, why not buff a section of the tenon on the nib. That part should not be visible after assembly.
You would likely need to mask the main part of the nib first.
Brad
 
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