Thuya Burl Kitless

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Danie Maartens

Danie Maartens

Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
39
Location
Cape Town, South Africa
Latest kitless rollerball. Thuya burl and semplicita acrylic, finished with BLO and sanded to 8 000 grit 3m polishing paper. Did not want to put a CA finish on this one.

I have also incorporated a crescent moon logo on the cap that I will use on all my kitless pens. Logo is made the same way knife makers make mosaic pins.
 

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I like it. Very nice section - so often I see kitless rollerball's where the section just looks fugly to me. This one is great. Did you make the metal nib? Stainless?
 
No, I do not make the nib only the section, the nib is a unit much like a fountain pen nib unit. It uses the same fountain pen ink as well and is made by Schmidt. they are available in black and chrome.
 

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VERY, very beautiful pen !!!

Would you mind telling us what threads you used (looks like double start for cap to body) and also the body and cap diameters, please. . Thanks.
 
magpens said:
VERY, very beautiful pen !!!

Would you mind telling us what threads you used (looks like double start for cap to body) and also the body and cap diameters, please. . Thanks.
Click to expand...

Thank you

Pen length capped 132mm
Pen length uncapped 123mm
Cap length 54 mm
Barrel diameter 12,9 mm tapering to 11,7mm (I taper +-1 degree on the lathe)
Cap diameter 15mm tapering to 13,8mm
Pen weight with full ink cartridge 14,5 grams

Cap to body thread M12 x 0,8mm triple start
Section to body thread M9 x 0,75mm
Nib housing thread M6,5 x 0,5mm
 
@Danie Maartens

Thank you very much for the dimensions and thread details. :)

One more Q ... did you insert any tube, metal or plastic (other than the cap threaded insert), in the cap or barrel to strengthen the pen walls ?
 
Awesome. I love the way the whole blank is used. I also like the natural finish. Did you thread your own inserts or find a source from them please?
 
Danie Maartens said:
Tony, I thread them myself.
Click to expand...
I'd love to know if you did any additional work to the threads... like how did you terminate the thread so perfectly. My threads off the die taper way more. Also, did you polish the threads or is the material just very well suited to be threaded? Acrylic I try to thread seems to have a rougher look in the grooves, even with lubricant. If you do polish, how do you go about it?

Thanks for sharing!
 
hokie said:
I'd love to know if you did any additional work to the threads... like how did you terminate the thread so perfectly. My threads off the die taper way more. Also, did you polish the threads or is the material just very well suited to be threaded? Acrylic I try to thread seems to have a rougher look in the grooves, even with lubricant. If you do polish, how do you go about it?

Thanks for sharing!
Click to expand...

No additional work, I use mineral oil as lubricant. Definitely the material that makes a difference, this is Semplicita acrylic made in Italy. I buy from Beaufort Ink in the UK. Maybe there are resellers in the USA.
 
Danie Maartens said:
No additional work, I use mineral oil as lubricant. Definitely the material that makes a difference, this is Semplicita acrylic made in Italy. I buy from Beaufort Ink in the UK. Maybe there are resellers in the USA.
Click to expand...
Ah yes... on the Beaufort Ink site, it even says, "Suitable for Threading"! Also seems to be exclusive to them. Darn.
 
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