Bryguy
Member
Before I invest heavily in the Bear Tooth Woods Rhinoplastic sale, does anyone have any experience with how well it takes threads. I'll be using threading dies rather than threading on the lathe.
Threading Rhinoplastic?
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Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
I've never used these for kitless, but have made a pen from them. Judging from the way they drill and turn, I would say no problem. The only blank I've had a problem with is PR blanks. They are too brittle.
I have successfully threaded acrylic acetate (AA), Alumilite, and Rhinoplastic without problems on a metal-working lathe turning headstock by hand.
Rhino is the most challenging. . Alumilite is easiest. . Rhinoplastics can vary: different colors ... different brittleness (don't know why).
Have not tried threading the (more) brittle Inlace Acrylester from PSI.
If possible, choose a thread pitch that is coarser that you would use on metal materials.
Take it slowly and do the threading in small steps, using adequate lubricant. . I use (lots of) WD-40.
Back off frequently to remove waste, but avoid complete removal of the tap/die (restarts never occur perfectly). . Allow for imperfect end threads.
Take extra care with centering at the time of initiating the threading. . Do the threading by hand on the lathe (not powered) to help with this.
Avoid forcing and allow the tap or die freedom to "pull itself into the workpiece".
Use a die-holder on the lathe. . Little Machine Shop sells one; I use one of these. . Rick Herrell also does, I believe (but not sure).
Mount the tap in a Jacobs chuck which is initally loosely mounted in your lathe tailstock ... loosely to allow the tap to get pulled into the work.
As the threading progresses, adjust the tailstock wheel to just take up the slack that occurs as threads are cut.
The tailstock should not be tightened down, so that it can easily slide when backing off.
When tapping, try to avoid the need for a bottom tap and design your work accordingly.
Do everything gently/cautiously, turning the lathe headstock by hand ... NO POWER to the lathe. . Lightly grip the Jacobs chuck when tapping in order to prevent it from turning, but allowing it to pull into the work, or to back off.
Rhino is the most challenging. . Alumilite is easiest. . Rhinoplastics can vary: different colors ... different brittleness (don't know why).
Have not tried threading the (more) brittle Inlace Acrylester from PSI.
If possible, choose a thread pitch that is coarser that you would use on metal materials.
Take it slowly and do the threading in small steps, using adequate lubricant. . I use (lots of) WD-40.
Back off frequently to remove waste, but avoid complete removal of the tap/die (restarts never occur perfectly). . Allow for imperfect end threads.
Take extra care with centering at the time of initiating the threading. . Do the threading by hand on the lathe (not powered) to help with this.
Avoid forcing and allow the tap or die freedom to "pull itself into the workpiece".
Use a die-holder on the lathe. . Little Machine Shop sells one; I use one of these. . Rick Herrell also does, I believe (but not sure).
Mount the tap in a Jacobs chuck which is initally loosely mounted in your lathe tailstock ... loosely to allow the tap to get pulled into the work.
As the threading progresses, adjust the tailstock wheel to just take up the slack that occurs as threads are cut.
The tailstock should not be tightened down, so that it can easily slide when backing off.
When tapping, try to avoid the need for a bottom tap and design your work accordingly.
Do everything gently/cautiously, turning the lathe headstock by hand ... NO POWER to the lathe. . Lightly grip the Jacobs chuck when tapping in order to prevent it from turning, but allowing it to pull into the work, or to back off.
Last edited:
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
RhinoPlastic is polyresin.
After investing a great deal of time in making a kitless pen, why use a marginal material?? You might get it to thread, but it won't be pretty or durable (IMNHO). Use an acrylic acetate--you can buy some of them for under $5 if you like making cheap kitless!!???
After investing a great deal of time in making a kitless pen, why use a marginal material?? You might get it to thread, but it won't be pretty or durable (IMNHO). Use an acrylic acetate--you can buy some of them for under $5 if you like making cheap kitless!!???
duncsuss
Member
I've tried threading Rhinoplastic using taps and dies. It's not something I'm going to try again. (Same goes for Inlace Acrylester.)
Other people may have succeeded where I failed, but it was miserable. I think I've still got a couple of blanks collecting dust on the shelf, I might use them to make cabuchons or finials (something that doesn't require threads!)
Other people may have succeeded where I failed, but it was miserable. I think I've still got a couple of blanks collecting dust on the shelf, I might use them to make cabuchons or finials (something that doesn't require threads!)
Looks like as on most things, we get various results. I had no problems using tap & dies threading rhino. The first kitless pens I made using 1/2" x 24 (i think the 24 is correct, 1/2" definitely is t&d) were made with rhinoplastic. But once I discovered alumilite and ebonite I havent used anymore rhino. And agreeing with Mal above, the mostly solid colors took threading better.. Black was the best.