The Correct Order of Finish "Things"

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candy1land

candy1land

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Sep 25, 2009
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So I am still perfecting my finishing techniques on both wood and acrylic pens.

Here are my basic questions - now that I have a buffer.

After completing my CA finish - what's next?

I have access to several other things I can use.

Renaissance
All three buffing compounds

What do most of you do after you are done MM'ing your pen blanks and they are ready to come off the lathe for final finish/polish?

Do you use all three compounds on the buffer? Do you use waxes and if so in what order.

For acrylics - same questions. Once you are done sanding do you go to buffer and then plastic polish?

Just curious - there are so many "things" you can use in the finishing process and I want to see what others are doing.

Thanks,

Candy
 
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Personally, with CA I stop after the MM. The 12,000 MM gives a 1-2 micron finish. You could add plastic polish and get it down to 1-0.5 microns.

It really just comes down to what works for you.
 
Displaced Canadian said:
I use plastic polish then a little Ren wax. Not sure if the ren wax does anything I just use it because I have it.
Click to expand...

The Ren wax puts a film on the item that helps to drastically reduce any of the oils and acids WE emit for getting into and onto any other finishes.
Some of the other waxes do get a better shine, but are not as protective as the Ren wax is. That is the real use of ren wax, as a cleaner and a protectant

Jerry
 
Candy1land how is the buffer working for you? I'm struggling with a finish issue myself. After putting on the CA finish, I also use the MM's to 12,000 then finish with a plastic polish while the pen is still on the lathe. The problems that I am having are small lines in the finish from the sanding. I've tried using very light touches on the pads, but i'm always getting the scratch lines (you have to hold the pen in the right light and look closely). My thoughts were to take the finish to a buffer with wax after the plastic polish to help fill in any small scratches (just as I would with my car).
 
Muggsy1776 said:
Candy1land how is the buffer working for you? I'm struggling with a finish issue myself. After putting on the CA finish, I also use the MM's to 12,000 then finish with a plastic polish while the pen is still on the lathe. The problems that I am having are small lines in the finish from the sanding. I've tried using very light touches on the pads, but i'm always getting the scratch lines (you have to hold the pen in the right light and look closely). My thoughts were to take the finish to a buffer with wax after the plastic polish to help fill in any small scratches (just as I would with my car).
Click to expand...

I found letting the ca cure for 24 hours before MMing really helped. Also, you may need to clean your MM as any tiny particals from previous steps or other contamination will cause scratching.
 
Not an expert, but I assume you are WET sanding with the MM. If not, that's a great place to start.

I CA then MM to 12000 then tripoli and white diamond buffed followed by Ren wax--- That's for wood.

For acrylics, I MM 12000 then buff and wax... No CA.
 
JimB I use an accelerator to cure them, but maybe i'll try the 24 hour dry time. I'll also try cleaning the MM padas and see what that does, or just switch to a new set and see if it makes any difference. The pads I'm using are the ones I started with, and i've put probably 30 pens through them so far, so they could very well be clogged with 'guck'.
 
Best finish money can buy

For wood I apply five coats of thin CA followed by five coats of Medium CA. I micromesh to 12000 and then follow this with a good buffing with white diamond on the Beall Buffing System. My finishes are brilliant and last forever with normal use. To retard finger prints at the craft show I apply a small amounto or Ren Wax to the entire pen, metal parts and all and buff off with a soft dust cloth.


Canibals hate clowns because they tatse funny!
 
OPINION!!! NOT fact,

I sand acrylics to 800-1000 grit, then take off the mandrel and mount on a wood dowel, go parallel (well 20-25 degrees off parallel) to the dowel with the tripoli. Turn the blank end for end and repeat. Start white diamond, turn the blank end for end and repeat.

Polish, don't PUSH.

Done.

If you LIKE your method, keep using it. I like mine and it's quick.

Wanna add renwax or TSW? no harm.
 
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