Tenon question

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bmchan

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I am making the Olympia (Berea)pen and the instructions call for cutting a 1/8" tenon to the copper tube. As I did the first one I wondered: "Why not glue after turning to avoid the inevitable residual that will interfere with the center band assembly?".

Will this work?
 
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The problem with turning the tenon before gluing is twofold. 1) You would lose grip between the bushings once you got through the wood, and 2) With the tube glued in you should be virtually guaranteed to have a square cut to butt the CB against.

I have yet to have a problem with glue residue and any tenon pen I've tunred, Olympia, ot otherwise.
 
There is at least one kit,"perfect Fit" made by berea that offers that as a possible way of doing it.
THose bushings come with a spacer ring that goes over the tube after it is parted off.
Billys answer works best becasue of the glue residue that is bound to be on the tube .This is easily turned off and the tube can easily be flared it you take off some brass.The square cut on the face after parting off is the other reason I don't glue up the blank "Short"
BYW though I have not made an Olympia I have yet to see a copper tube, the only ones I have seen are brass in the kits.
 
Brian
Another approach that has worked great for me is to cut the blank 1/8" shorter (or whatever the tenon calls for) then press both ends of the brass tube into a slice of potato (1/4" or so) or wax making sure it is flush w/the tube THEN glue in the tube. Once dry push the potato or wax out. WARNING Only do this on tenon's that require it to be turned to the brass tubes because some tenon's do not go all the way to the tube.

Tom
 
Cutting the wood short and leaving the brass tube sticking out is highly problematic. With this method, it is very unlikely that the tube will be square with the wood. If the tube isn't square with the wood, the CB won't fit correctly. It is very easy to remove any residual glue from the tube. I've made a lot of Olympias and never had a problem with residual glue on the tube.
 
Gerry,
Thanks for catching my ommision on the blank length[B)]!!! That could lead to problems. Should have made it clear to cut the blank slightly longer then mill square to proper length. THEN it works great! An added benefit for new turners is it will insure a good square end. When I first started turning I had a problem turning the tenon and leaving a good square shoulder.

Tom
 
Actually, Berea's instructions for several kits recommends cutting the wood to exact length and leaving the tube sticking out the required length for the tenon. This method requires that somehow the wood be cut square to a non-existent hole and then the hole drill absolutely square with the cut face and the tube glued in absolutely square to that face. Dario's idea is fine and will work great, but Berea's instructions are just plain ridiculous.
 
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