qquake
Member
To those of you that have made them, how do you drill the blanks? It looks like the body is about 5" long. But the 11/32" bit I have is only a little over 5". Any tips or tricks?
Tenacious/Blade drilling question
- Thread starter qquake
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jttheclockman
Member
If you are talking about the click, the blank is only 3-11/16". The overall kit is 5-9/16"
The Blade kit's brass tube is actually 3.70" long.
The set of Norseman jobber drill bits that I have (and swear by) has an 11/32" bit which is 4.81" long. . Its flutes are 3.50" long.
So the drilling for the Blade pen blank can be done, and I have done so several dozen times.
I drill on the lathe. . For this pen kit I do so in two stages. . For the first stage of drilling the drill bit is fully seated in the Jacobs chuck.
In the first stage I drill a hole about 2.75" - 3" deep in the blank. . Then I extend the bit further and drill the remainder.
Before doing any drilling I always square up the end of the blank on the lathe
Before using the 11/32" drill bit I use a "center bit" to define the starting point accurately on the axis of the pen blank.
Then I may do a short starter hole with diameter about 1/4" or so.
I always take the drilling VERY slowly at the very beginning of the hole to ensure the drill bit is accurately on center.
In principle, you could do the drilling in one stage if you seat the drill bit appropriately in the Jacobs chuck right from the start.
But, obviously, the more the drill bit is extended at the beginning, the more chance you have of it "wandering" off center.
You can buy a machinist drill bit which is longer than the jobber bit, but you have greater potential for wandering with it.
The set of Norseman jobber drill bits that I have (and swear by) has an 11/32" bit which is 4.81" long. . Its flutes are 3.50" long.
So the drilling for the Blade pen blank can be done, and I have done so several dozen times.
I drill on the lathe. . For this pen kit I do so in two stages. . For the first stage of drilling the drill bit is fully seated in the Jacobs chuck.
In the first stage I drill a hole about 2.75" - 3" deep in the blank. . Then I extend the bit further and drill the remainder.
Before doing any drilling I always square up the end of the blank on the lathe
Before using the 11/32" drill bit I use a "center bit" to define the starting point accurately on the axis of the pen blank.
Then I may do a short starter hole with diameter about 1/4" or so.
I always take the drilling VERY slowly at the very beginning of the hole to ensure the drill bit is accurately on center.
In principle, you could do the drilling in one stage if you seat the drill bit appropriately in the Jacobs chuck right from the start.
But, obviously, the more the drill bit is extended at the beginning, the more chance you have of it "wandering" off center.
You can buy a machinist drill bit which is longer than the jobber bit, but you have greater potential for wandering with it.
qquake
Member
Okay, I see where I got confused. Berea's Blade instructions say Material Size- 3/4" x 3/4" x 5". But I just read Woodcraft's Tenacious instructions, and they say 3/4" x 3/4" x 3 13/16" Pen Blank. They also say Note: Additional length has been added to the overall length of the blank to accommodate for squaring the ends of the blank.. So drilling on the lathe should be no problem.
Another issue though, is squaring the ends. Woodcraft says Pen Mill Pilot Shaft Letter "O", which I believe will be smaller than the ID of the 11/32" tube. I guess I can wrap it with aluminum tape to make it snug.
Another issue though, is squaring the ends. Woodcraft says Pen Mill Pilot Shaft Letter "O", which I believe will be smaller than the ID of the 11/32" tube. I guess I can wrap it with aluminum tape to make it snug.
Mortalis
Member
I dont know how you square your blanks but I use a machinist vise with a center punch sized just smaller than the ID of the tube clamped in the vise against a miter gage that is set perpendicular to my belt grinder. I position the set up so that all I have to do is apply downward pressure on the blank that is mounted over the center punch and lightly sand the end until the brass tube just appears. turn the blank around and repeat.
This method does not require the punch to be exactly the size of the ID, just that it be square to the sanding belt.
qquake
Member
I use a Woodpeckers Ultra-Shear Pen Mill.
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qquake
Member
I was able to drill it with no problems. I used my normal drill press method. Had to raise the blank a couple of times, and lower the bit, but I got it. Drilled pretty straight too. I went and bought a new drill bit so it would be sharp.
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qquake
Member
Tim R
Member
I've done a handful of Rockler long wood pens that have a four inch tube. The last few I've drilled (on the lathe) from both ends. They did not meet up perfectly, but were close enough. I did a little work to make it right. I glued the tube in using epoxy and that filled any gaps.
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qquake
Member
I use two-part epoxy on all pens.
Tim R
Member
Me too
qquake
Member
When I first started turning pens, I used CA, because that was what was recommended. Didn't like it. I've also tried Gorilla (polyurethane) glue. Didn't like it. I've been using epoxy ever since.
I ordered an extra long norseman bit.
Alchemist
Member
Blades are great click pens. I drill them on the lathe. A jobber bit will get through just fine. I take my time with them. Sometimes, I will move the bit out a bit more from the drill jaws to reach the end.
For squaring the ends to the brass I use Rick Herrel's sanding tool. It has been a fantastic purchase!
For squaring the ends to the brass I use Rick Herrel's sanding tool. It has been a fantastic purchase!
philipff
Member
I always square the ends of the blank on the lathe with a round nose scraper slide across the tool rest and take off the wood/acrylic down to the brass tube. Ends are pure square every time. Try it. No cost for fancy tools. P
qquake
Member
I already have the fancy tools. 