Taps for Kit Less Pens Caps

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eharri446

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Can anyone shed some light on the type of tap needed to create the threads for the cap when creating a kit less pen?

I am investigating a possible group by for taps and dies used for these types of pens and have price quotes for plug and bottom tap.

I am sure that many of us would like to get one or the other of these taps.

All help would be appreciated.
 
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Mintman

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I use plug taps for kitless caps. I can see some positives for bottoming taps but they aren't necessary in my opinion. You could use the bottoming tap also to cut cap threads but they don't have a lead in and would likely make cutting the initial threads more difficult.(opinion only)


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Curly

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The reason for a bottoming tap is to end the threads cleanly when you make a translucent or clear pen. To cut enough threads for full engagement with the barrel threads with a plug tap you will have the taps tapering threads fading off past the ones you need. So to eliminate that if you want you start the threads with a plug tap and stop before getting to the length needed for full engagement, swap to the bottoming tap and finish cutting. If you aren't bothered by the threads being longer than needed or only work with dark materials like ebonite then the plug tap is all you need. The bottoming tap is optional. Some materials can be cut with a bottoming tap only but with brittle material or metals you need the plug tap first.

It is similar in principle to cutting the barrel thread. When your die stops at the shoulder you turn it around and finish by cutting to the shoulder so the threads don't taper up to it. The die having the threads relieved on the side of the die with the writing on it to help start it.

It's all about personal aesthetics. :smile:
 

Mintman

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The reason for a bottoming tap is to end the threads cleanly when you make a translucent or clear pen. To cut enough threads for full engagement with the barrel threads with a plug tap you will have the taps tapering threads fading off past the ones you need. So to eliminate that if you want you start the threads with a plug tap and stop before getting to the length needed for full engagement, swap to the bottoming tap and finish cutting. If you aren't bothered by the threads being longer than needed or only work with dark materials like ebonite then the plug tap is all you need. The bottoming tap is optional. Some materials can be cut with a bottoming tap only but with brittle material or metals you need the plug tap first.



It is similar in principle to cutting the barrel thread. When your die stops at the shoulder you turn it around and finish by cutting to the shoulder so the threads don't taper up to it. The die having the threads relieved on the side of the die with the writing on it to help start it.



It's all about personal aesthetics. :smile:


That absolutely makes sense for a transparent blank! I haven't made a demonstrator yet but figure I should consider at least one bottom tap!


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eharri446

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Mar 17, 2016
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767
Location
Marietta, GA
Mike, there is a thread under Group Purchases/Group Purchase Research/ called Group Buy for Triple Start Threads that has all of the information. However, I have pricing information for M14 x .8, M13 X .8, M12 x .8, and M11 x .8. These are all triple start taps and associated dies.
 
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