Tap Question

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MartinPens

MartinPens

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Apr 3, 2010
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Medford, Oregon, USA
It's probably a dumb question - but I've heard that the dumbest question is the one that doesn't get asked before the money is spent!!

When buying taps and dies - I am assuming that the taps are PLUG taps, not Taper Taps.

Right?

Martin
 
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Most of the taps I use are plug taps. There are basically 3 types, taper, plug and bottoming. The taper tap is the easiest to start and get centered, but the threads at the bottom of whatever you will be tapping will not engage. A bottom tap is harder to get on center but the threads are usable all the way to the bottom. If using a bottom tap, it is often a good idea to start the threads with a taper or plug tap. A plug tap is between the 2 and somewhat of a compromise. The last few threads will not engage, but for most pen work are usually hidden and you just need to tap a little deeper than what you need. The exception is a transparent or translucent blank.
 
Bruce - If you start with a tapper and then switch to a bottom or plug, how carful do you have to be to not screw up the threads that you have started? Would it be wise to start the bottom or plug by hand and then put it in the holder to finish the threads?
 
I tap first with my taper or plug tap, with the tap in the tail stock chuck. Then switch to the bottoming tap also in held in the tail stock chuck. I have succesfully started them by hand but its not as easy as mounting them in the tail stock chuck and easier to misaliagn it causing thread damage. I turn the spindle by hand carefully until the threads engage properly and then turn the tap in until it starts cutting the bottom of the threads.
 
I'll start with the plug. It seems that with pens -if planned well- the parts "bottom out" on an edge. So having the threads bottom out doesn't seem all that critical. But I have no experience. This is just my present logic. Thanks for the comments - very helpful.

Martin
 
IPD_Mr said:
Bruce - If you start with a tapper and then switch to a bottom or plug, how carful do you have to be to not screw up the threads that you have started? Would it be wise to start the bottom or plug by hand and then put it in the holder to finish the threads?
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It should not be an issue. The taper tap should go deep enough such that the entry will have full threads. The bottom tap just cleans up the bottom and should follow the threads near the entry.
 
I purchased a metric tap die set from MSC, I know it was $200. Very well worth the investment. Set contains 2 taps for each thread size, you get the plug tap and the bottom tap. I recommend the set very much, they are quality taps and dies, and the dies are split adjustable dies too. It's one of the few sets I would recommend. If you already know exactly what sizes you need, it's cheaper to just buy those individually, but if you are not sure, or you are sure but will be making 3 or more different size pens, then the set is the more affordable way to go. You buy 3 dies and 6 taps, depending on the sizes and quality you could spend $200 just on that. I have not used all the taps/dies in my set, but I do use about 5 different size dies and probably 8 of the taps which I looked up individually one time and those one are worth more than the set.
 
I bought a set of el cheapo of tap and dies years ago. I still use those sets today. When I find that I use a certain size more than once in awhile I buy the best version I think I need. This way I have all of them available, but the ones that I use on a regular basis are the best made for my purpose. A $20 set will get anyone started, you might only need 2 taps and 2 dies out the entire set, when you find out what those "2" are, then it is time to upgrade to a high quality version.
 
dogcatcher said:
I bought a set of el cheapo of tap and dies years ago. I still use those sets today. When I find that I use a certain size more than once in awhile I buy the best version I think I need. This way I have all of them available, but the ones that I use on a regular basis are the best made for my purpose. A $20 set will get anyone started, you might only need 2 taps and 2 dies out the entire set, when you find out what those "2" are, then it is time to upgrade to a high quality version.
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I pretty much use that same plan with all manner of tools that come in a range of sizes. The only difference is that I tend not to upgrade the individual tools if they are still serviceable.
 
I have both standard and metric tap sets. I use them for other things than making pens. I have used the 1/4 x 28 on a pen for the finial threads on a pen I made. I usually end up with taps and dies that are finer thread pitch than come in the sets.
You end up with bulky parts in order to leave enough material for the threads your making or in some places the material is too thin after threading with the coarser taps and dies. That is why I recomend the .75 pitch on most sizes. Those are available readily and cheaply through a couple of places. Their quality is adequate for our work. We dont make parts for the space shuttle and pen parts have quite a bit of leeway in the fit.
 
Martin the only taper tap I use in pen making is the 12mm tap included in the recent multi-start tap and die combination. All the rest are plug taps.

Since the thread took a slight turn into discussing buying sets versus individual sets, If I wanted a set of taps and dies for general use around the shop, I would buy a set BUT... that would be a bad choice if I were buying the few sizes I need for making my pens since most sets don't include the finer .5mm and .75mm pitches in 7mm, 8mm, 9mm and 10mm diameters. I bought all my individual taps and dies from Victor Machine http://www.victornet.com/productpages/tapanddie1.html and find them to be good quality tools. Most taps under 10mm size average $5 and the dies average $9 each.

I think many newbies to the kitless world think they have to have a dozen different taps and dies to make their pens and that just isn't the case.
 
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