Table saw question: recommendations?

[mdburn_em]

I'm considering getting a table saw. Without going into it, I can probably afford whatever I want. I am not, however, in a rush to spend money just to spend it.

I have a small shop. I didn't realize how small until I started filling it with tools and benches. It is a barn style shop with a second floor. 16x20. I have power to the shop with a 100 amp panel. I can configure for 220 if needed.

I have an old craftsman contractor style saw and I'm wondering if I should upgrade. I've been looking at the SawStop machines.

I've also been thinking maybe it would be better to spend the money on a new NOVA DVR lathe. and just put some bells and whistles on the old Craftsman. The only lathe I have is a jet mini non-vs.

I have a lot of rough cut Oak that I plan to begin milling and working with soon.

So...
If you had several thousand that you could spend (if you wanted to) would you buy a new tablesaw and if so, what would you get and why?

 

[longbeard]

If it was me....i would go with a new lathe. i would also buy a 14" or bigger
bandsaw before i would a tablesaw, for what i do, but thats my opinion.
If i was needing a tablesaw, it would be a saw stop.


Harry

 

[Indiana_Parrothead]

I by all means recommend the SawStop and have first hand experience that it does work. If you are already setup for 220 I would go with the 3hp Professional model. When hooked up to a dust collector the dust collection on this is amazing.

I had an old Craftsman contractor style and I had all the upgrades that you could put on it, turned pulleys, link-belt, zero clearence insert, Biesemeyer fence and it still didn't compare to the SawStop I have now.

Mike

 

[mredburn]

THe cost of a saw stop is nothing compared to the cost of cutting a piece of you off. IF I didnt already have a delta unisaw and had the money I would get the saw stop. My dad uses the Unisaw and scares the crap out of me when he does. He is 75 and has RH Arthritus in his hands bad. I did buy some of the really good push blocks which has helped keep his hands away from the blade and gave him better control.
Amazon.com: Gripper(TM) 200 Advanced System - Assorted Colors (Black or Yellow): Home Improvement
IF you dont get the Saw Stop get 2 of those. IF it was available as an upgrade I would do it in a heartbeat. IF the Delta ever dies I will get one.

 

[beck3906]

Everyone can offer thoughts, but to offer suggestions, we need to know more about what your future plans are. Do you expect to get heavy into flatwork?

 

[Smitty37]

You need to decide what you'll be doing...You're shop is barely big enough for a Table saw - I have to keep 8' clear on each side of mine so 16 feet does not do it....so if you get one and you're ever going to work with 8' lumber you just ain't gonna have room. That being the case if you don't really need one get the lathe.

 

[Swagopenturner]

I own a small cabinet shop and do most of my cutting on a table saw. If I had the money, I would replace mine with a SawStop no question about it. I would also opt for the mobility kit, especially in a smallish shop. However, the current saw I have cannot be beat for the price. It is a Rockwell RK7241S set into a mobile work table. The worktable gives me a 4' X 8' work area. The table saw has a sliding table that is very reasonably priced and a "Finisher". The finisher is a small joiner that attaches to the table saw top. This gives me more room in the shop since I don't need a seperate joiner. The table saw itself can cut a 4" X 4" in one pass! Even most large cabinet saws can't do that. And with power to spare. I'm working on a walnut coffee table for a customer right now. The saw cuts through 3" glued up walnut like butter.

 

[mdburn_em]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Longbeard. I have a 14" Jet Closed Base bandsaw. I may someday install the riser and carter guides but that day hasn't yet come. I look awfully close at the bigger lathes everytime I'm in Woodcraft.

Indiana_Parrothead. Thanks, kind of going along with my line of thinking.

mredburn. I do have the grrrippers but I don't like even turning on my existing table saw. Not scared of it, but very, very, very respectful of it's biting ability.

beck3906. Yes, I plan to get into flatwork. I have a lot of Red Oak. I had about 32 feet of an Oak tree with a 42" base turned into boards. I'll be taking down a White Oak before too long and it will be turned into boards as well.

Smitty37. I know what you are saying but I don't think I'm going to tear this shop down to built what I should have built in the first place. Hind sight is definitely 20/20. I have 20 feet for cutting and milling the wood that I have. If I need to crosscut the Oak, I have a very good/accurate radial arm saw. If I need to cut plywood panels, I will have to figure something else out. You know the old saying, "Where there's a will, there's a way." I just have to figure the way.

Swagopenturner. Seems like the SawStop is the way to go. I will definitely get the mobile base. All of my tools are on a mobile base. I've got a joint, planer, table saw, radial arm saw, 12" sliding Dewault miter saw in the shop. Oh and along with the tool that gets the most use, the Jet mini. (I just can't get away from the pens.)

Thanks evryone for opinions and suggestions.

 

[mikebpeters]

I just recently agonized over the same sort of question. Even had an deal in the works on a saw stop. Ended up with an old, but new in box Craftsman saw because that suited my own requirements.

All my research certainly indicated that Saw Stops work, but that they come at a cost, both in initial purchase and in replacing cartridges and blades. Only you can decide if that is worth it to you. there are certainly lots of very strong opinions out there both for and against.

My one piece of advice is whatever you choose pick a 220 saw, or at the very least one that you can convert. You will NEVER wish you had less power . . .

 

[Indiana_Parrothead]

I just recently agonized over the same sort of question. Even had an deal in the works on a saw stop. Ended up with an old, but new in box Craftsman saw because that suited my own requirements.

All my research certainly indicated that Saw Stops work, but that they come at a cost, both in initial purchase and in replacing cartridges and blades. Only you can decide if that is worth it to you. there are certainly lots of very strong opinions out there both for and against.

My one piece of advice is whatever you choose pick a 220 saw, or at the very least one that you can convert. You will NEVER wish you had less power . . .

One thing that I did find out, if you trigger the SawStop with an actual "save" (and somehow they can analyze the cartridge and know) they will send you a replacement for free. You are on your own for the blade.

Mike

 

[plantman]

Mark; You would need a clear space of 20' x 10' to safely cut a 4' X 8' sheet of plywood without having to move your table saw. You could narrow this down to maybe 6' wide, but will still need the 20' length. 8' in + 8' out + 2' on each end for a place to stand. If you are planing on doing a lot of flat work in Oak or any other hard wood, go for the larger motor and run it on 220 volts on it's own circuit breaker. A 1-1 1/2 hp motor running on 120 volts will draw 10-15 amps. Under heavy load it will drop out a 20 Amp breaker. A 220 volt motor, depending on size, will draw a lot less amperage, but use up two spots in your panel. I have seen people run a hot dog into a stop saw, but have never seen anyone put their finger in one. I would think that if it was 100% FOOL proof, that the Goverment would mandate it's use on all saws used in the USA. If you are going to do flat work, want to keep your fingers safe, and cost is no object, look into a straight line cutting saw. Auto feed, straight line cuts even if your board has uneven or warped edges or is fed at an angle, industrial grade, and safe. Our Tec School had one of these in the shop where I taught woodworking at night. My main shop is 36 X 24, and I don't have the room to cut a 4' X 8" sheet of plywood without moving my saw. I have all my tools and work benches on locking wheels so I can move them around at will. I also have a 20' X 10' cement slab outside my doors that I can roll the saw, shaper, or planer outside when I have a large job to do, or the weather is nice. Jim S

 

[Smitty37]

I can run an 8' sheet of plywood through mine but I have lots of room. It does have it's own breaker but every now and then it will trip it out usually when first starting.. 220 is nice for everything if you have the room

 

[flyitfast]

I just got the SawStop Contractor saw and put it on the job site cart rather than the mobility base. Takes a little more room, but if I want to roll it out in the driveway, I have to go over a 1 1/2" drop off. The 10" wheels make it much easier to roll. The Contractor saw with a 36" table is plenty without taking up too much room.
Sure do like the safety and the wife said she wanted the security/safety - didn't want to drive me to the hospital!! That being said, the suggestion for the Grrr-ripper is a poor man's SawStop! Those things sure can prevent an accident. I have Grr-rippers along with the SawStop - kinda like wearing suspenders and a belt to keep the pants up!!
Sounds like you have a full shop. Good luck on the decision. Like someone said, the bandsaw is a lot more useful and it sounds like you deserve a upgraded lathe with power and VS.
gordon

 

[Jim Burr]

Mark, I've had that same saw for 15+ years and have felt no need to move either on or up. Hit the switch and it cuts. I haven't felt the need for a SawStop because I refuse to stick my hand in the saw. If it works...keep it.

 

[low_48]

Accidents happen. I have 9 7/8 fingers instead of 10, missing one joint. Sawstop would be the only saw I would consider. Got one at work, magnificent machine! Perfectly machined, great engineering.

 

[larryc]

I just recently agonized over the same sort of question. Even had an deal in the works on a saw stop. Ended up with an old, but new in box Craftsman saw because that suited my own requirements.

All my research certainly indicated that Saw Stops work, but that they come at a cost, both in initial purchase and in replacing cartridges and blades. Only you can decide if that is worth it to you. there are certainly lots of very strong opinions out there both for and against.

My one piece of advice is whatever you choose pick a 220 saw, or at the very least one that you can convert. You will NEVER wish you had less power . . .

One thing that I did find out, if you trigger the SawStop with an actual "save" (and somehow they can analyze the cartridge and know) they will send you a replacement for free. You are on your own for the blade.

Mike

My experience exactly!

 

[plantman]

I can run an 8' sheet of plywood through mine but I have lots of room. It does have it's own breaker but every now and then it will trip it out usually when first starting.. 220 is nice for everything if you have the room

I know Smitty already knows the answer, but for those of you out there that are asking, why does a tool that draws only 10-15 Amps trip out a 20 Amp breaker on start up? Because the cold starting Amperage of a motor can be 2 or 3 times it's running Amperage ( 30 to 40 Amps) Thats why most 120 volt motors have a capacitor on them to overcome this. Once the motor starts, it quickly drops to normal. If you have fast trip breakers, it may be a long enough time to trip them. Once the motor has moved it should start after the first or second reset, if not check for other problems. Unplug the tool before moving any parts !! If it hasn't started as it should have, we don't want it to start when we are not expecting it. Be Safe !! Jim S

 

[beck3906]

I cut full sheets on the floor using a circular saw. I have 2 edge guides and I use a 2x4 platform to keep the sheet off the floor.

Just getting too old to man-handle that weight and size onto a table saw.

But I am thinking about a SawStop just for the safety.

 

[sbwertz]

I have the Ridgid granite top and love it. For panels, I have a panel saw attachment for my circular saw...works great. I like to turn things like inside-out ornaments, and you have to have your 4 blanks perfectly square and exactly the same size. I can't get that kind of accuracy on the band saw, but the table saw does it every time. And I have TWO GRR Rippers.

 

[plantman]

I cut full sheets on the floor using a circular saw. I have 2 edge guides and I use a 2x4 platform to keep the sheet off the floor.

Just getting too old to man-handle that weight and size onto a table saw.

But I am thinking about a SawStop just for the safety.

Good idea Rick !! Where there is a Will, there will always be a Way. I think most of us work alone and have to find easier ways to doing things safely without help. As a last resort, I always use the " Hon, can you come down to the shop for a minute" call of desperation. Jim S

 

[Lenny]

Only you can decide how to spend your money and on what....

IF you decide to buy a tablesaw you need to ask yourself a few questions to determine what your needs might be. Do you have the room for a saw with long rails and extended rip capacity? Do you need the power to rip thick hardwood?
Generally speaking you can break down your choices to saws up to 2hp and those 3hp and over. The 3hp saws will need to run on 240v.
There are many saws to choose from in the 2hp category including a contractors style SawStop. I have a Jet Supersaw that would be in this category. In the 3 hp category, Grizzly has some models in the lower end price wise. I would put Powermatic next but for that kind of money you are now looking at the SawStop being right in the mix price wise with all its many advantages!

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Whatever saw you buy, make sure it has a great fence.

 

[sbwertz]

I have a 4x8' removable breakdown table. It is a 4x8' platform made of 2x4 lumber that sits on two saw horses. On top of the platform is a sheet of plywood, and on top of the plywood is a sheet of 1" foam insulation. I use it with a panel saw kit to break down plywood sheets (for cabinets, for example). When not in use, the platform, plywood and foam sheet stand against the wall behind my sheet goods cart that holds 4x8 sheets of plywood, and the saw horses stack in the shed. The whole thing can be assembled on the driveway in less than 5 minutes, then put away when not needed, and takes up no room in my overstuffed 20x20' shop.

When the foam gets too many saw kerfs in it, I turn it over, and replace it as needed...they are cheap and protect the saw blade.

 

[Smitty37]

Accidents happen. I have 9 7/8 fingers instead of 10, missing one joint. Sawstop would be the only saw I would consider. Got one at work, magnificent machine! Perfectly machined, great engineering.

Well I still have all 10 thanks to a darned good doctor but he really couldn't fix it so they all work right....

 

[jj9ball]

Personally I bit the bullet on expensive tools twice. I have a Sawstop 3hp professional and a powermatic 3520B lathe. If I had to choose between the saw and the lathe it seems like there are so many fun projects you can do just at the lathe... especially a big lathe (bowls and lamps and things). The table saw works awesome but many of those projects end up at the joiner, bandsaw, and so on. If you have those other tools then the tablesaw will definitely complete your shop. If you don't have those other tools then the lathe will give you the chance to do a bunch of fun projects without having to wish for/need other tools.

I traded up a ridgid table saw for the saw stop and it really is incredible how much of a power difference ther is. I had the link belt on the ridgid which helps but the sawstop just blows through the wood compared to the ridgid. The only thing that is a little annoying is the space in front of the blade. I know its nitpicking but the sawstop only has about 10 3/4 inches the ridgid had 13 1/2 inches. Its no big deal until you are trying to crosscut a wide board...

Forgive the rant but the bottom line is that if you are willing to spend that kind of money on a tool - lathe or tablesaw- you're gonna get a hell of a tool and probably end up only crying about the money not what you end up with. In my opinion you can't go wrong either way.

 

[tommy2tone]

I too have 9 7/8 fingers from a Delta 12' table saw. I know it was my own dumb fault. But if I had the SawStop I would still have my finger...:frown:

 

[Marko50]

Sawstop all the way. I'm saving my pennies for one as we speak. I currently have a Delta Unisaw. I opted for the 3hp with the 52" table and a Biesmeyer fence. I put in a nice JessEm router lift with a Porter Cable 3hp router in the far end (it can spin some serious shaper blades) Love the set up, but I have a young son that loves the tools! Freaks me out when he wants to fire up the "beast". A Saw Stop would calm my fears down a bit concerning his welfare and fingers. Just my .02¢

 

[kovalcik]

I bought my Jet 10" cabinet saw (3HP) 20 years ago and have never regretted the decision to spend the extra money. If I were to replace it, I would probably choose the 3 HP SawStop for the safety considerations.

 

[JTisher]

If it was me spending the money, I would be looking at a new metal lathe and all the tooling to go with it, but that's just me.

Joe

 

[mdburn_em]

Thanks for all of the replies, advice and opinions. It looks like it will be the SawStop for me.