The blade must be parallel with the saw. The back being a hair wider is incorrect. The back being wider causes kickback on the outside of the blade and causes the wood at the front of the blade to pull inwards which is often how people loose finger tips. Accuracy is obtained by truing the blade in all directions. Thin strips are cut using a jig, see the indian blanket tutorial on the home page for an example of a strip jig. Always stand to the left side of the blade, never directly behind the saw. As already stated, wear your saftey equipment to at least protect your eyes. always tune your saw with a new blade in place, not a used blade. Clean your blade regualarly. Plug the sing, spray some oven cleaner on the blade and fill the sink with a few inches of water and let it soak, then scrub the blade with a soft plastic bristle brush, dry the blade and then spray the blade with a blade or tablesaw lubricant, such as dry-coat. Gum on the blade causes kickback and un-even flow of wood through the saw. All pretty basic stuff. I think Rockler is the place that sells a tablesaw adjuster bolt. It is a great thing to own and cheap to buy. It's like a clamp that clamps on the body of the saw, with a bolt through it. You loosen the back bolts on the arbor section under the table. you tighten the bolt in the clamp which pushes the arbor section one way or the other depending which side it is mounted. Once the saw is in tune, you re-tighten the arbor bolts. The adjuster bolt holds it in place so when you re-tighten the saw, it doesn't move. It's nice to have an adjuster bolt on each side. Not only do they make it easier to fine tune the saw, they help prevent it from going out of whack again. Usually the saw goes out of whack due to tilting the blade. The tilting can cause some minor stress on the body of the saw, resulting in the saw going out of tune. Clean inside the saw at least twice a year too. The threaded rods get all gummy with dust and debry, even more so if cutting acrylics.