navycop
Member
I have the slinky type now. It runs about 15' in the rafters of my garage to the outside. Would it be better to replace it with some type of ridgid metal hose?
Suggestions on dryer exhaust hose
- Thread starter navycop
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desertrat
Member
The dryer hose will catch a lot of shavings and slow down. I use thin wall 4inch PVC. Do not glue the joints, just duct tape them that way if you do get a stoppage it's easy to open the system for clean out. Also try to avoid 90 degree elbows and use 45's. Sharp bends reduce volume of air flow.
Hope this helps, it costs more but it eliminates 99% of problems.
John H
Hope this helps, it costs more but it eliminates 99% of problems.
John H
dogcatcher
Member
If this is for a dryer, I would make sure it is done right. Dryer lint can catch fire, and an attic fire will be a disaster. I think there are codes for dryer vents, doing it against the code can void your insurance.
navycop
Member
Yes. It is for a dryer. There is nothing above the rafters in the garage.
woodgraver
Member
I think you want straight smooth walled pipe so you don't get lint traps. They sell the stuff specifically for this purpose, it comes in a "C" shape with a lip that allows you to connect it together. That is what the code called for here in WA.
PTsideshow
Member
Any home big box store has it and they sell mostly to local code. works with regular snips. If you have the choice get the longest lengths they have to cut down on the number of joints.
:clown:
:clown:
navycop
Member
Thanks guys. I will take all these suggestions to the big box stores and see what they have.
Justturnin
Member
Right by where they have the flex pipe that should hace the rigid pipe too. I would run 90% of it rifid and only use the flex to connect to the dryer.
PenMan1
Member
My suggestion would be to call the building code enforcement department of your local Government. You could even snap a few pix of where the vent will be installed.
EVERY time I've asked these guys for the correct way to make such an installation BEFORE I do it, these building inspectors have been wonderful to work with.
JUST KEEP IN MIND THAT DOING THIS INCORRECTLY COULD RESULT IN A HOME DESTROYING FIRE! IMHO, this is one of those problems that a professional should handle.
Respectfully submitted.
EVERY time I've asked these guys for the correct way to make such an installation BEFORE I do it, these building inspectors have been wonderful to work with.
JUST KEEP IN MIND THAT DOING THIS INCORRECTLY COULD RESULT IN A HOME DESTROYING FIRE! IMHO, this is one of those problems that a professional should handle.
Respectfully submitted.
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Hmmmm
I assume that what you have is already in place. Change it if it worry's you but you don't have to. Unless you think it is violating code it is highly unlikely to give you any problems.
BTW the only problem I've ever had with mine is that I had to put a grate over the end because the birds loved it so much they wanted to build a nest in there and were filling it as fast as I could clean it out.
I assume that what you have is already in place. Change it if it worry's you but you don't have to. Unless you think it is violating code it is highly unlikely to give you any problems.
BTW the only problem I've ever had with mine is that I had to put a grate over the end because the birds loved it so much they wanted to build a nest in there and were filling it as fast as I could clean it out.
navycop
Member
Smitty37;1374724 I assume that what you have is already in place. Change it if it worry's you but you don't have to. Unless you think it is violating code it is highly unlikely to give you any problems. [/QUOTE said:
Displaced Canadian
Member
Most places allow you to use metal duct that you can buy in 5' lengths. try to avoid using screws to put join pipes together. We use foil tape instead of duct tape, it sticks better and lasts longer. As for a bird screen, most screen like caps also trap lint but the one piece flapper door can be opened by most small birds. We use the ones that have the three louvers and they seem to work well. As mentioned the straighter the pipe the better. One 90 degree bend is the same as adding 15' of straight pipe.
LeeR
Member
I removed our dryer vent tubing to clean it out a couple years back, after about 25 years of use. It runs thru a crawl space in basement, so it was "somewhat" easy to remove. I was amazed at all the lint that came out -- I used a hose to rinse it out. Being lazy, I put it back in, rather than research switching to rigid tubing. I may do that the next time I remove it for cleaning, in 2035 or so. But I'll be 83 then, so may get the son-in-law to get up in the crawl space, since he'll just be in his 50s. :wink:
ctubbs
Member
When you assemble the rigid pipe, put the bell end toward the dryer. that will give of a place for the lint to catch on the end of the joint. the other way, the air is running into the sharp end of the pipe joint and the lint will tend to accumulate and build up there. Once it starts, that is where the jam will end up.
Charles
Charles
nava1uni
Member
I just redid the dryer venting in my daughter's rented apartment. It was in the garage. It had the flex type and collected so much lint that it burned out the dryer. I called the local building code office and they told me to use rigid to prevent lint build-up and to help the dryer by it not being clogged and heat build up. I got the longest lengths and even used the rigid at the dryer. There are pieces that fit the back of the dryer and it allowed the new dryer to sit closer to the wall. It was easy to install and I used hangers to keep it in place so that if something bumped it it didn't come apart at the joints. It was easy, just wear gloves because the edges are very sharp.
navycop
Member
Thanks Cindy. I could use a little more floor space in the landry room also.
Check your building codes - and the dryer manual. Most new dryers do NOT want you to use a flex hose, as it leads to lint buildup and fires. I think the discharge from my new dryer is much hotter than from the old ones.
As well, the only 'flex hose' we should be talking about is actual aluminum...not that foil stuff! Here's a video you should watch:
Dryer vent installation BAD IDEA - YouTube
As well, the only 'flex hose' we should be talking about is actual aluminum...not that foil stuff! Here's a video you should watch:
Dryer vent installation BAD IDEA - YouTube
I got curious
I Just went and checked mine which has been installed for 7 years and has never been cleaned. Length is 15 - 18 feet 1 elbow, and it is supported the entire length. It is rigid (I thought otherwise). It does have lint build up over the entire length of the hose with the farther you get from the dryer the less the buildup. The greatest build up is near the
dryer. It is used for perhaps 3 - 4 loads per week.
I Just went and checked mine which has been installed for 7 years and has never been cleaned. Length is 15 - 18 feet 1 elbow, and it is supported the entire length. It is rigid (I thought otherwise). It does have lint build up over the entire length of the hose with the farther you get from the dryer the less the buildup. The greatest build up is near the
dryer. It is used for perhaps 3 - 4 loads per week.
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nava1uni
Member
You can buy a brush that fits into a drill. It is about 4 feet long and it is the size of the tubing. It is easy to use and really cleans the piping very well. I use one on my own dryer and it cleans the pipes very well.
As a plumber I have to install dryer vents in slabs and under houses. We always use the green sewer pipe that you can get at on of the box stores. According to code you are only allowed to run a dryer vent 25' without any bends and you lose a couple of feet of run by each elbow you put in. If you pm me your number I could talk you through a few things to help out.