stuck morse tapper#2 in tailstock

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hippi

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Apr 5, 2014
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Location
sedalia mo
I got a stuck psi spindle saver stuck in my tailstock the cap came off the bearing
any ideas I taped the cap back on but It just comes right off

yes I tried the knock out rod
 
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I got a stuck psi spindle saver stuck in my tailstock the cap came off the bearing
any ideas I taped the cap back on but It just comes right off

yes I tried the knock out rod


On many lathes, if you completely "withdraw" the tailstock, the insert is forced out by the "unscrewing" motion.

If that doesn't work, I would TAP on the projecting morse taper sides to free it. NOTE: "TAP" DOES NOT MEAN BEAT THE ____ OUT OF IT---GENTLE TO AVOID DAMAGING YOUR TAILSTOCK!!!
 
What kind of lathe do you have?
Many lathe tailstocks will do as Ed has mentioned by backing the spindle out they will release the mandrel - sometimes there is a slight catch before they release the taper.
Do you have a push rod that came with your lathe? Sometimes that will work to push the stuck taper out.
gordon
 
When you say that you tried the knockout rod, what does that mean?

Presuming that the tailstock is hollow, you should be able to insert the knockout rod far enough for it to tap the back of the stuck mandrel saver. The principle behind the use of the knockout rod is that you should be able to impart enough energy into the male portion of the morse taper to break the friction fit just by snapping it into the spindle. But if things are really bad, there's nothing wrong with tapping it gently with a wooden or rubber mallet.

You said something about the bearing cap on the mandrel saver coming loose - that almost suggests that the mandrel saver has failed (and probably is a throwaway at this point), which means that it could take more force to remove it. But you want to minimize the damage to the female morse taper. Obviously, after you get everyone thing apart, you need to inspect the female fitting very carefully, and if there is serious damage you may be forced to use a reamer to resurface it.
 
Hi Hippi - I have that spindle saver, it's not made to MT2 specs, it's too short to be normally ejected.

I use it on two different lathes with the same problem, it won't eject, and by pulling on it the bearing cover slips off.

I crank out about an inch of tailstock spindle then use a big flat blade screwdriver to "pop" it out. It's worked well for me, with no damage to any parts.

Happy turning
Tom
 
Have a hunch it depend on the lathe. I have a live center which I've adapted to be a mandrel saver and it works just fine on my Jet 1014. It was really embarrassing when it got stuck in a Powermatic during a chapter demo... The issue would be the length of the tail stock spindle...
 
My understanding is that some MT fixtures are shorter than others. I don't know why one would want a short taper, but apparently a few manufacturers believe that there is a market demand for them. A short taper is probably OK for fixtures that mount in the headstock because a knockout bar is normally used to eject them. The problem is when short MT fixtures are used in the tailstock. Some tailstocks aren't hollow, and rely on interference between the fixture and the spindle ram to loosen the fixture so it can be removed. But if the fixture has a short taper, the ram may not be long enough and the fixture won't be ejected.

I vaguely recall watching a video in which someone made an extension from a scrap of wood that he attached to the end of a fixture with a short taper so that it would automatically be ejected by the ram.
 
I had similar problems with mine. When I got it out, I switched to the spindle saver CCUSA offers. Costs more than the PSI, but you get what you pay for. It has a longer MT 2 shaft that makes it pop right off when you crank the handle on the tailstock.
 
This mandrel saver can be saved maybe? I had mine making noise so I went to my local NAPA store, and they ordered replacement bearings. It was found that the original bearing did not have any lubricate in it to extend the bearing life.

Good luck, I a m glad it came. Loose.
 
If you wish to put grease in the existing bearing, the guy at the store said I could snap the plastic seal on the bearing and pack it with grease then snap the seal back in place. I have not done this. I forgot to mention it but the bearing cost more than a new mannerly saver but should last longer.
 
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